How much trouble am I in?

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6T9QDA

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A little backstory: my '69 Barracuda is a very long-term project that I work on when budget and enthusiam allows. About ten years ago I rebuilt an '86 318, mainly to get the roller cam and 302 heads for a mild cruiser engine. I installed it but didn't fire it because the car had no wiring, cooling, exhaust, etc, so I taped all the openings and let it sit while I worked on the rest of the car. I used plenty of assembly lube and sealed it up.

Last summer the car was ready to support a running engine so I pre-oiled it, got oil to both rocker shafts, and it fired immediately. Hallelujah! Wasn't concerned with a full break-in with the roller lifters, so I ran it about ten minutes to check for leaks and overheating. Everything looked and sounded good.

As of a few days ago the car will move, if not roadworthy. I idled it out of the garage and noticed a small leak from the oil filter adapter. It made a little puddle that looked slightly milky. ****. Pulled the dipstick and it is showing some milky streaks. Not a full-blown milkshake, but there's some water in there. Keep in mind the engine is "new" and clean, with only a few minutes of run time. Oil is clear, and I'm using the yellow universal coolant, which is much the same color as the oil. I ran it long enough to open the thermostat, and I couldn't see any compression bubbles in the radiator neck. No white smoke from the exhaust.

I am seriously bummed. This thing is so close to finally being back on the road, and the thought of major engine problems makes my stomach hurt. Any chance it could be condensation from being in an unheated garage all this time, or it that just wishful thinking? Change the oil and filter and see what it looks like after a few minutes? Help me out here.
 
6T9QDA said:
A little backstory: my '69 Barracuda is a very long-term project that I work on when budget and enthusiam allows. About ten years ago I rebuilt an '86 318, mainly to get the roller cam and 302 heads for a mild cruiser engine. I installed it but didn't fire it because the car had no wiring, cooling, exhaust, etc, so I taped all the openings and let it sit while I worked on the rest of the car. I used plenty of assembly lube and sealed it up.

Last summer the car was ready to support a running engine so I pre-oiled it, got oil to both rocker shafts, and it fired immediately. Hallelujah! Wasn't concerned with a full break-in with the roller lifters, so I ran it about ten minutes to check for leaks and overheating. Everything looked and sounded good.

As of a few days ago the car will move, if not roadworthy. I idled it out of the garage and noticed a small leak from the oil filter adapter. It made a little puddle that looked slightly milky. ****. Pulled the dipstick and it is showing some milky streaks. Not a full-blown milkshake, but there's some water in there. Keep in mind the engine is "new" and clean, with only a few minutes of run time. Oil is clear, and I'm using the yellow universal coolant, which is much the same color as the oil. I ran it long enough to open the thermostat, and I couldn't see any compression bubbles in the radiator neck. No white smoke from the exhaust.

I am seriously bummed. This thing is so close to finally being back on the road, and the thought of major engine problems makes my stomach hurt. Any chance it could be condensation from being in an unheated garage all this time, or it that just wishful thinking? Change the oil and filter and see what it looks like after a few minutes? Help me out here.
Click to expand...
Pull the valve covers, check for milky oil.

Cheap check is to change the oil and filter again and recheck oil after heating up the engine.

Did you have the heads checked for cracks?

Could be as simple as a bad or misaligned head gasket.
 
Before I even got all the way to the end I was thinking....
6T9QDA said:
Change the oil and filter and see what it looks like after a few minutes?
Click to expand...

Seems to me like this would be a good first step.

One other thing that comes to mind is see if you can rent one of those testers that tell if your coolant has combustion byproducts in it.
 
pull a cover and post a picture. After it has sat overnight take a clean container and pull the drain plug. Collect the first 1/2 a quart and put the drain plug back in. If there is significant coolant in the oil, a good portion of the sample will be coolant. Post a picture of the sample. If you decide to change the oil and run it. I would drain the coolant and replace with straight water. Water is slightly easier than coolant on bearings IIRC. Pictures help a bunch.
 
Is the oil clear or milky it cant be both as you said. If you're getting streaks on the dip stick its probably condensate. What filter adapter are you using?

Posting photos would help also!
 
It's nothing. You're not driving it enough to cook the water out of the oil, and when it cools, condensate forms inside the motor.

I used to get short-term-ridden Harley's (AIR COOLED) that would get milkshakes in the trans and engines.
"I only ride a couple blocks to my buddie's house, drink a few beers and hang out for two hours, then ride home...."

Just warm enough to get some moisture (which is a byproduct of combustion in a gasoline motor) but not hot enough to cook it out the case vent.
 
My boat scared me once like that after winter storage and as said the water needed to boil out of it. I hope it's as simple as that.
 
I agree that it’s not a disaster just yet.
Most likely just ran enough to condense a little.

The very first little bit out of the oil drain would tell, since coolant sinks to the bottom of oil.
 
jos51700 said:
It's nothing. You're not driving it enough to cook the water out of the oil, and when it cools, condensate forms inside the motor.

I used to get short-term-ridden Harley's (AIR COOLED) that would get milkshakes in the trans and engines.
"I only ride a couple blocks to my buddie's house, drink a few beers and hang out for two hours, then ride home...."

Just warm enough to get some moisture (which is a byproduct of combustion in a gasoline motor) but not hot enough to cook it out the case vent.
Click to expand...
Especially with the corn gas these days!
 
Yes, I'll crack the drain plug and see what comes out first, but I'm not expecting much water as I can't see that the level in the radiator has gone down any. I thought about that UV leak detector fluid for cooling systems- it should show in clear oil, right? Maybe that would be the least invasive first try. If it's positive, I'll pull a valve cover and have look and take pictures. Except for the filter adapter (aluminum one that came on the engine), the engine sealed really well and I hate to break into it before I have to. Meanwhile, think it would be okay to idle the engine until good and hot and check the oil again? You guys are making me feel better about minor condensation.

Heads were checked for cracks when the stock valve job was done. Looked okay.
 
Pull the dipstick while it's running, if you have water/coolant you will know pretty quick.
 
Just my opinion but no way am I running a freshly rebuild engine with new bearings with any hint of anti-freeze in the oil.

For what it costs to change the oil and filter, its very, very, cheap insurance.
 
Yeah, that's probably sound advice. I think I'll change the oil and filter, and add some UV fluid to the coolant. Run it to temperature and see what I've got then.
 
What did you use for assembly lube? possible melting and causing streaks.
I always try to diagnose concern before disassembly.
 
Good thought. I don't recall exactly, but it was red and the streaks are whitish. I'll do the oil change with UV and report back.
 
Regular Performer with a 1406. Early 340 exhaust. Had the stock cam reground to xe250hr specs. I think the engine will hit the goals I wanted if I can get the rest of the car ready.
 
The oil came out as a uniform opaque tan. Didn't smell like coolant. I heated a little of it and the water evaporated off, the oil returning to clear amber. Kind of interesting to see it happen. Didn't smell like anti-freeze when it was hot, either. When I get the filter adapter regasketed, I'm still going to give the coolant a dose of UV dye, but I'm 99% sure the water is condensate.

oilsample.jpeg


oilclear.jpg
 
ten years is a long time, lots of hot and cold cycles to form condensation in the block, even taped up for that long doesn't mean no air coming in and out.
 
I think I'd change it and look at it again AFTER you run it long enough to get all the way up to temp and stay there a long time.
 
Agree, could just be a build up of condensation; change the oil & run it for 30 min minimum & then check the oil.
 
Which oil filter adapter do you have? 90 degree or the plate where the filter screws straight onto the block? If you have a 90 degree, buy a big copper washer to use between the head of the big bolt and the body of the adapter. Use that instead of the Mickey Mouse fiber washer that comes in the gasket kit. Thick cork washer goes on the bolt on the inside, between the adapter and the block. The other gasket for the perimeter is obvious...lol. After I started using big copper washers where I mentioned, I haven't had a leak since. I suspect it is because you can crank the bolt to the 50 ft lbs of torque and not split the fiber washer from the kit. You've gotten good advice on the oil, so fingers crossed!

:thumbsup:
 
6T9QDA said:
A little backstory: my '69 Barracuda is a very long-term project that I work on when budget and enthusiam allows. About ten years ago I rebuilt an '86 318, mainly to get the roller cam and 302 heads for a mild cruiser engine. I installed it but didn't fire it because the car had no wiring, cooling, exhaust, etc, so I taped all the openings and let it sit while I worked on the rest of the car. I used plenty of assembly lube and sealed it up.

Last summer the car was ready to support a running engine so I pre-oiled it, got oil to both rocker shafts, and it fired immediately. Hallelujah! Wasn't concerned with a full break-in with the roller lifters, so I ran it about ten minutes to check for leaks and overheating. Everything looked and sounded good.

As of a few days ago the car will move, if not roadworthy. I idled it out of the garage and noticed a small leak from the oil filter adapter. It made a little puddle that looked slightly milky. ****. Pulled the dipstick and it is showing some milky streaks. Not a full-blown milkshake, but there's some water in there. Keep in mind the engine is "new" and clean, with only a few minutes of run time. Oil is clear, and I'm using the yellow universal coolant, which is much the same color as the oil. I ran it long enough to open the thermostat, and I couldn't see any compression bubbles in the radiator neck. No white smoke from the exhaust.

I am seriously bummed. This thing is so close to finally being back on the road, and the thought of major engine problems makes my stomach hurt. Any chance it could be condensation from being in an unheated garage all this time, or it that just wishful thinking? Change the oil and filter and see what it looks like after a few minutes? Help me out here.
Click to expand...
I had something similar like 25 years ago.
Had a neighbor who worked in the transformer industry. He knew all about oil.
My oil was milky too. He told me he could tell there was like a tablespoon of water in the oil. That’s all it takes. I say change the oil and see if it does it again. I think it’s condensation from sitting. Imho.
 
I got the filter adapter back on and ran it for 30 minutes. No leaks and no signs of cross-contamination. It's an aluminum 90* adapter, and I used a fiber/cork/copper gasket set, P5249230, $16 from Amazon.

I think it's good. Thanks for all your opinions and suggestions.
 
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