Do your research before you buy. A kit from one vendor is not always the best buy in the long run. My iron parts like ball joints and tie rod ends are Moog or TRW only.
yes, but this is only the kit price for the rubber ones.
pollygraphite super kit costs $459.00. i know it'll be money well spent though. well we should hope so at least!
thats what i'm thinking too. i have only driven this car for about 5 mins until the tranny went out, so i'll keep in mind. thanks.I`ve used both (poly/B`cuda) (rubber/Dart) and I actually like the rubber. Most polygraphite kits have rubber LCA bushings anyway because the poly`s have a tendency to squeak. Either way you go you`ll be very pleased, it makes a huge difference when everything`s new.
From your original post I got the impression that money savings was at or near the top of your list, so that is why I sent you the info on the rubber (factory) type kit.
I run rubber on everything BUT the Addco sway bar end link bushings and I am quite happy with the results BTW, but it's a personal decision.
As to the P-S-T parts I quoted - just a note in case it's not perfectly clear - I have no connection with or to the company and I was neither recommending not advising against using their stuff. The reason I posted that stuff was:
I. I was curious about the idler arm pricing in particular that another poster spoke about;
II. The kit is a very popular way to do this.
I've seen much talk about where to get parts and where they come from. In a Thread(topic) of my own I was interested in how folks here felt about China brake parts - in particular soft brake hoses, and I got mixed replies ... or rather replies with mixed opinions. Both Advance Auto Parts and a local wholesale/retail parts supplier sell China parts in different packaging, one specifying Taiwan. Here I see one recommending Moog and another poster in this thread or another thread stating that Moog contracts off-shore as well.
I don't know what the safe bet is on this stuff anymore.
A good friend of mine did his 73 Cuda in poly and hates it. He is restoring a Dart for his wife and is installing all Moog parts. I saw the old Moog boxes ... lol!
I'll be using strictly rubber on mine.
ya. i think i'll be doing rubber. why moog though? do u know why some people might prefer moog? besides where it was made?
best as in quality? or best fit? or..? where is most of PST's stuff made?When it comes to suspension pieces for our cars, American-made mnfrs like Moog & TRW are still the best available.
I need to get in on this thread. fredsmedina- i'm feeling your pain, i have a 67 Dart that needs a front end rebuild to, so all of this discussion is great, I was dead set on the poly bushings to, thinking they were worlds better now it seems rubber is cheaper and in some cases preferred. Also, I just moved down from the North Sac area in March (my avatar pic was taken on my buddy's ranch in elk grove) and we both have the same car with the same problem, kinda wish I was still up there so we could work this out together, cause I'm about as nervous as they come when it comes to this. Please let me know what you end up doing and how it all works. Also, I have the 9in. drums all around on my car, wanna do discs when I do the rebuild. Figure why tear it apart twice, anyone have suggestions on doing the conversion? I found some F-Body parts, will they fit?
Like the OP said, I'm just trying to get educated, this is my driver, so I cant afford to screw this up.
The hardest part for me has always been getting the existing upper ball joints out of the control arm. I now have a six foot long cheater bar that I slip over the breaker bar and socket. This helps.
Even if you mark everything carefully, especially the UCA cam bolts, for re-assembly, plan on getting the front end aligned when you're done.
It is a do-able job, but one you don't want to screw up. I've learned a lot and gotten satisfaction knowing I did it myself. I've done two rebuilds with polygraphite and one with rubber. Each time, I enjoyed the improvement of the completed job for the way it made the car handle.
You will love the results, a freshly rebuilt suspension makes these cars feel like new again.
I did the rebuild using PST rubber kit. No problems whats so ever. I was lucky that my friend had a socket to fit the upper ball joint. He also had a 3ft breaker bar so it made it easy. Took everything to the friend who runs a transmission shop and borrowed his press. Press the pivot shaft into the LCA bushing first then press the LCA bushing into the LCA by pressing the bushing... not the shaft. I have not drove the car yet to get it aligned because I'm doing so stuff to engine.