How much voltage is too much

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Mouse action

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My car is regularly putting out 14 -14.5 volts.
Battery is new and I have no high voltage items.
It seems a bit excessive.
 
That is almost exactly WHAT YOU WANT. The "company line" in most of the Mopar shop manuals is with the battery and engine warmed and the battery "up and normal" (the VR is temp sensitive) 13.8---14.2, and limits just a bit above / below

Run over to MyMopar and download yourself a free factory service manual Electrical is section 8
 
What type of alternator are you running ? Factory or aftermarket. What does the battery test at when it is not running ? What are you using to measure running voltage ?
 
MoparLeo said:
What type of alternator are you running ? Factory or aftermarket. What does the battery test at when it is not running ? What are you using to measure running voltage ?
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Factory alternator,battery is 12.5 volts,
I’m going by both gauges,factory and aftermarket and checked with a battery load test meter.
I was wondering if it’s high voltage blew out the coil?
AE626B62-5A36-4EE5-9526-0237D53855A2.jpeg
 
Coil could have gone bad, or you have wrong or no ballast resistor, and it's always possible IF YOU have an old mechanical VR that the contacts stuck but with the voltage you posted, I doubt it

Does / did the ammeter ever mysteriously go to full/ a lot of charge for no reason?
 
Steady 14 volts, probably just noticing since the coil blew and I’m looking for reasons.on the other hand the car runs fabulous now.
 
I mount my coils with the contacts in the oil; either upside down or studs as the lowest point. No more problems.

IIRC Blaster coils are made for CDI Ignition. They are made for a high-voltage/ low amperage input.
IDK how long they would put up with the standard low-voltage/ high amperage input.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Bein a cheap POS China made coil is what killed the coil.
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Previous owner of my 886 Ambulance opted to run truck without a ballast resistor basically straight wired and one day my hand touched coil and u could have fried an egg on it super hot !!!
If coil wasn't a older std ignition coil it would have burned up like one pictured.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Blaster coils are made for CDI Ignition. They are made for a high-voltage/ low amperage input.
.
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If that is true why do the destructions talk about hooking them up with stock ignition, etc?
 
Msd can style coils are a waste of space. They cost more, don't do anything better, and don't even "help" a cdi box.
Ask msd why your power didn't change and they'll tell you that they're stock replacement, but if you ask if it's a stock replacement they'll tell you it's made for racing. They do the same crap with late model COP coils too, and in most cases the msd ones are horrible quality compared to OEM yet cost 3x more. Go figure. If you ask why they burn out so often, they'll give you the "made for racing" excuse. If they don't make more power they're "stock replacement".

I'd run an OEM coil, given the choice. But finding them new isn't easy anymore. That or go with any number of good aftermarket systems, from FBO to AN HEI conversion.
 
Phreakish said:
Msd can style coils are a waste of space. They cost more, don't do anything better, and don't even "help" a cdi box.
Ask msd why your power didn't change and they'll tell you that they're stock replacement, but if you ask if it's a stock replacement they'll tell you it's made for racing. They do the same crap with late model COP coils too, and in most cases the msd ones are horrible quality compared to OEM yet cost 3x more. Go figure. If you ask why they burn out so often, they'll give you the "made for racing" excuse. If they don't make more power they're "stock replacement".

I'd run an OEM coil, given the choice. But finding them new isn't easy anymore. That or go with any number of good aftermarket systems, from FBO to AN HEI conversion.
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I've had good luck in the past with the old tried and true Standard Blue Streak coils. Have one on Vixen right now. To their credit, Standard Blue Streak parts are not made in China or globally. They are all made in Bialystok, Poland. Not USA, but not China.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I've had good luck in the past with the old tried and true Standard Blue Streak coils. Have one on Vixen right now. To their credit, Standard Blue Streak parts are not made in China or globally. They are all made in Bialystok, Poland. Not USA, but not China.
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Good to know they're still around! For some reason I had it in my head that they had gone away. I agree though, great parts and the important bit is "not China" ;)
That said, I was impressed with the bluestreak parts I handled in the past. They were very well made and had high quality connections and finishes.
 
Phreakish said:
Good to know they're still around! For some reason I had it in my head that they had gone away. I agree though, great parts and the important bit is "not China" ;)
That said, I was impressed with the bluestreak parts I handled in the past. They were very well made and had high quality connections and finishes.
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You could beat someone to DEATH with one of their distributor caps. lol
 
Voltage is fine. 8 ohm resistor, post #7??

One of the most important parts of a coil that never seems to get a mention is the purity of the elements in the steel core. It requires a large percentage of silicon. It has to magnetise & de-magnetise at very high rates, the greater the number of cylinders that it has to fire, the more important metal purity & percentage of alloying elements becomes. Hopefully when you pay more for brand name coils, this is what you pay for.
 
AJ/FormS said:
I mount my coils with the contacts in the oil; either upside down or studs as the lowest point. No more problems.

IIRC Blaster coils are made for CDI Ignition. They are made for a high-voltage/ low amperage input.
IDK how long they would put up with the standard low-voltage/ high amperage input.
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The original coil was laying horizontal so I mounted the new one vertical,but after running a while the coil is very hot to the touch. should they get hot ?
 
AFAIK;
All the Blasters were designed for MSD Series 5,6,and 7, CDI-type ignition systems.
Just cuz MSD says the Blaster-2 "can be" used with a transistorized non-CDI ignition system, doesn't mean that it "should be".

edit;
then again; CDI systems require very specific fast-acting CDI coils, and canister coils are not it.
Blasters are like, in-between coils.
They work on everything, but what does that mean to me? I passed.
 
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Mouse action said:
The original coil was laying horizontal so I mounted the new one vertical,but after running a while the coil is very hot to the touch. should they get hot ?
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All electrical devices run hot. That is a function of their very poor efficiency. Ever notice the heat being poured out of your lap-top by the tiny fan inside it?
How hot your coil gets, is a function of where you mounted it, and how well the case dissipates the heat. The factory location, IMO, is a terrible place to mount a coil. I'm pretty sure it was only put in that location, to save money.
The oil inside your coil is good for maybe 240*F. The coil is not "full" of oil, because there has to be room for expansion of the oil, as it heats and cools. If you mount your coil in a horizontal position/ studs down, that will keep the armature inside it "relatively" cool.
Your factory type coil with the transistorized ignition system, is designed to run at about 7 or 8 volts, thru the factory ballast resistor. You can run it on battery/alternator voltage for short periods of time, but it will heat up, and over time they have been known to fail. They don't always blow up; sometimes they just blow a gasket and start seeping oil. Occasionally, the armature wires separate from the studs.
Some guys, not me, have run their coils off a hobbs switch that switches from ballasted voltage supply to charge voltage, at WOT. Cool idea, but I didn't see the point in my streeter.
 
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