How often do you drain your air compressor?

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RustyRatRod said:
On the subject, does anyone use one of those automatic compressor drains? I just wonder how they work.
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I’ve got an automatic drain off Amazon but it goes off every hour at its longest setting. Way too often. I’m going to plug it into one of those mechanical timers and do it once a day. That should be enough with the after cooler I have plumbed in between the compressor and tank.
 
I have a spring loaded drain screws into bottom of the tank, that opens when pressure is low, coupla lbs.
You can hear it hiss at fire up till it gets a coupla lbs pressure, then it closes.
Now and then it'll surprise you by releasing when least expected.
I try to drain the system low points coupla times a year, my son everytime he paints.
 
toolmanmike said:
Once a week at least. Heavy use, turn it off and drain it daily.
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I used to when buying brand new compressors/tanks, would open it at the top, drop in some solvent slosh it around, drain it out and after a decent amount of dry time follow that with some (pint?) quality paint, and slosh that around and quickly drain, the idea is to give some protection to the bare metal inside where water would constantly collect daily.
I now have an aftercooler right after the compressor, that has a fan on the same circuit that runs with the compressor. Aftercooler next feeds a water trap with an auto drain. Being in Florida I am still amazed how much water still gets into the 80 gal tank.

I am not fond of depressuring the air system down to zero at the end of the day every day for no real purpose. It pressure cycles everything just accelerating eventual fatigue failure at the weakest link in the design.
 
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J-c-c said:
I used to when buying brand new compressors/tanks, would open it at the top, drop in some solvent slosh it around, drain it out and after a decent amount of dry time follow that with some (pint?) quality paint, and slosh that around and quickly drain, the idea is to give some protection to the bare metal inside where water would constantly collect daily.
I now have an aftercooler right after the compressor, that has a fan on the same circuit that runs with the compressor. Aftercooler next feeds a water trap with an auto drain. Being in Florida I am still amazed how much water still gets into the 80 gal tank,
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I live in Iowa and we have a lot of humidity in the summer. Back when at the Buick dealer, all the tools were not powered and every hoist was a air powered, in ground lift. It took a lot if air. We had a 10 horse 250 gallon. We finally installed an auto air purge and there was still gallons of water that was drained out every day.
 
Dont assume a bigger compressor will be louder. My quincy is way quieter than most small compressors due to its 1025 rpm pump operating speed.
Mine has an automatic drain but I dont use it because it scares the crap out of me everytime it blasts off. My routine is to close the discharge valve and drain the tank every day when im finished working. Once you get in the habit you wont forget to do it.
I had mine inside the shop for about a year. It wasnt the noise but the heat it generated. I built a small enclosure on the outside of the garage and I can almost not even hear it running.
 
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J-c-c said:
I used to when buying brand new compressors/tanks, would open it at the top, drop in some solvent slosh it around, drain it out and after a decent amount of dry time follow that with some (pint?) quality paint, and slosh that around and quickly drain, the idea is to give some protection to the bare metal inside where water would constantly collect daily.
I now have an aftercooler right after the compressor, that has a fan on the same circuit that runs with the compressor. Aftercooler next feeds a water trap with an auto drain. Being in Florida I am still amazed how much water still gets into the 80 gal tank.

I am not fond of depressuring the air system down to zero at the end of the day every day for no real purpose. It pressure cycles everything just accelerating eventual fatigue failure at the weakest link in the design.
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Exactly what I built and works great.
1705378380364.png


That would be the aftercooler before the tank.

This awesome work is not mine but a good setup
 
My quincy came with what I think they call an aftercooler. Its a big radiator on the output of the compressor. It must work because I get pretty much zero water in my air lines. It all condenses and drops back in the tank so it never hits the air line. I cant say enough about this compressor, its truly awesome in every way.
I had originally planned on buying a refrigerated dryer for it but never had the need. I use it mainly for sandblasting and sometimes I blast for 4 hours straight.
Those homemade condensers work great. It would be even better with an automatic drain on it.
 
Mine is a 5HP 80 gallon single stage. The blowout is just a 90 degree valve with a tube going to a catch basin. I drain it every 4-6 weeks but should probably do so more often. I don't use it much.
 
You guys who dont drain their tank on a regular basis need to go on youtube and watch a few videos. Search for air tank explosion. Most of these are caused by internal corrosion caused from not draining them.
 
MoparMike1974 said:
You guys who dont drain their tank on a regular basis need to go on youtube and watch a few videos. Search for air tank explosion. Most of these are caused by internal corrosion caused from not draining them.
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Sure they're caused by rusting out, but remember without oxygen **** can't rust. So if the bottom is fully covered with water it won't rust, it'll rust just above it. If it's wet yet drained, it'll still rust! The only real goal of draining is to keep full capacity of your tank and to try and keep water out of your air tools and paint gun.
 
The proper way is to cool everything, Collect the moisture and then it goes to the tank.

The tank should be where the conditioned air is stored.

That is what everyone is getting wrong.
 
dowboy1970 said:
The proper way is to cool everything, Collect the moisture and then it goes to the tank.

The tank should be where the conditioned air is stored.

That is what everyone is getting wrong.
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YEP, including every compressor manufacturer that feeds the pump output straight to the tank via a check valve.
 
dadsbee said:
YEP, including every compressor manufacturer that feeds the pump output straight to the tank via a check valve.
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My setup goes through two tranny coolers with 12volt fans powered off of the 220 motor per leg. ( 120 to 12v converters.) switched by pressure switch. Then after that cooling it goes to this style setup.
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I have much longer drops to catch the water than this. Maybe 16 inches.
I am talking about the bottom of the loops with the drain valves. This drop will be where the water collects. It needs to be longer..

So after all this, THEN, it goes to the tank to be stored.
 
We installed a automatic drain system operated by the pressure release for the head when it shuts off. When ever the compressor kicks off the tank spits out the water. This is one make . There are several you can find much cheaper. They also make them for your water trap.

Does it by itself automatically , No electric, Never worry about water again

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Conrader Auto Drain Valve, 1/4 In. NPT, 500 psi WV-1-KIT | Zoro
 
Oldmanmopar said:
We installed a automatic drain system operated by the pressure release for the head when it shuts off. When ever the compressor kicks off the tank spits out the water. This is one make . There are several you can find much cheaper. They also make them for your water trap.

Does it by itself automatically , No electric, Never worry about water again

View attachment 1716192939

Conrader Auto Drain Valve, 1/4 In. NPT, 500 psi WV-1-KIT | Zoro
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All this does is get rid of water you introduced to your tank. It is only working right after the compressor kicks out.
The air in the tank is still condensing so its still making water. Its still hot air cooling down ( making water)
What's wrong with getting rid of it before it ever hits the tank?
 
dowboy1970 said:
I have much longer drops to catch the water than this. Maybe 16 inches.
I am talking about the bottom of the loops with the drain valves. This drop will be where the water collects. It needs to be longer..
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Yeah, I kinda pooched it there. Definitely need to get back to it and add more pipe above the valves, I just blow them out more often for the time being. But the temperature drop across the tubes is surprising.
 
Car Nut said:
Do you guys store your compressor full or empty?
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I store mine full shut off at the tank.
fshd4it said:
Yeah, I kinda pooched it there. Definitely need to get back to it and add more pipe above the valves, I just blow them out more often for the time being. But the temperature drop across the tubes is surprising.
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Your setup looks great, Its almost identical,
If you can go from your pump to your coil you built, then to your tank you will improve alot.
Add more pipe as you say because you will catch ALOT more water.
 
dowboy1970 said:
I store mine full shut off at the tank.

Your setup looks great, Its almost identical,
If you can go from your pump to your coil you built, then to your tank you will improve alot.
Add more pipe as you say because you will catch ALOT more water.
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I've got another 60 gallon tank that I was planning on putting in-line after the copper, it's on the list as well.
 
fshd4it said:
I've got another 60 gallon tank that I was planning on putting in-line after the copper, it's on the list as well.
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I do not think you will have to do that.
You have everything you need already there, Just need to redirect a couple of things if you can,
 
Using the system I listed above. I run my shop and the compressor runs constantly. Two blast cabinets at the same time while also running air tools. Spray booth has toilet paper filter hardly any moisture in the booth.. The only thing we use that much copper on is a still. I would never trust copper for any air line.

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