How to correct this problem.

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Buford19

Buford19

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After installing bell housing and block plate. The face of bell housing and face of engine block is out almost 10 thousands. It’s is at zero around 8 o clock, out .0010 at 2 o clock. How would I correct this issue? Would removing powder coat on high side of bell housing correct this?

588D3803-88A3-47B9-BDA0-865C1331189E.jpeg
 
Did you check the back face of the engine block for squareness to the crank first??
 
I had the same problem and what little paint was on the back of the engine caused the misalignment. I would bet the powder coating is not distributed evenly resulting the the face of the bellhousing not being parallel to the rear of the block. So yes, I believe you should remove the powder coating from the face of the bellhousing. Rod
 
Treblig said:
Did you check the back face of the engine block for squareness to the crank first??
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No I didn’t check that. How do you take this measurement? Also this engine is brand new from the factory. Was made on the 18-11-2018, just saying. The bell housing is also brand new.
 
Buford19 said:
No I didn’t check that. How do you take this measurement? Also this engine is brand new from the factory. Was made on the 18-11-2018, just saying. The bell housing is also brand new.
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You simply attach the magnetic base to the back of the crank and set the indicator tip on the rear mounting surface of the block then rotate the crank. This will tell you how far off the rear face of the block is "out of square" to the crank. All of your .010" might be there and not in the bell housing. Although you did say in your initial post something about a "block plate". Is there an adapter plate between the bell and the block???
PS - for all your measurements: Make sure the crank CAN NOT drift front to back (end play) or it will throw off all your measurements. treblig
 
Treblig said:
You simply attach the magnetic base to the back of the crank and set the indicator tip on the rear mounting surface of the block then rotate the crank. This will tell you how far off the rear face of the block is "out of square" to the crank. All of your .010" might be there and not in the bell housing. Although you did say in your initial post something about a "block plate". Is there an adapter plate between the bell and the block???
PS - for all your measurements: Make sure the crank CAN NOT drift front to back (end play) or it will throw off all your measurements. treblig
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Yes there is a block plate between the two. On further inspection of the bell housing I found a small imperfection on it. Will remove this first , and take another measurement. Not sure, but this might make a difference. Also thanks for your input on this subject.
 
Buford19 said:
After installing bell housing and block plate. The face of bell housing and face of engine block is out almost 10 thousands. It’s is at zero around 8 o clock, out .0010 at 2 o clock. How would I correct this issue? Would removing powder coat on high side of bell housing correct this?

View attachment 1715284804
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Which is it 10 thousands or .0010?

I think mine was out about that far. I left it. That was 1999 and over 100,000 miles ago. Yeah I was lazy. Maybe that's where the tiny bit of vibration comes from that I haven't been able to source.
Jus saying.
CenterForce wants .002 or less off parallel.
 
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what about the concentricity of the trans brg retainer/pilot hole? That's also important. Somebody else has posted that it made a significant difference when the bolts were torqued to SPECS, not just snugged.
 
Will try a new measurement tomorrow, and torque them to spec. This might be a long shot, but I found a raised imperfection on the bellhousing. This imperfection is closed to eight o clock. Same location of the high calibration reading. Here’s a few pics of it, but they really don’t show it very good. Ran some 400 grit paper on a hard block over this spot to remove it.

174BD8DA-3855-40B6-B4AA-50F7F0E4C29D.jpeg


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DC1C837C-54F3-4F65-B077-1D36D1EFFBCC.jpeg
 
Buford19 said:
Will try a new measurement tomorrow, and torque them to spec. This might be a long shot, but I found a raised imperfection on the bellhousing. This imperfection is closed to eight o clock. Same location of the high calibration reading. Here’s a few pics of it, but they really don’t show it very good. Ran some 400 grit paper on a hard block over this spot to remove it.

View attachment 1715285066

View attachment 1715285067

View attachment 1715285068
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The first picture is after I gave it a light sand. You can see how the white raised spot got larger. Seem like a run in paint, not sure if you get them when power coating.
 
You should check the rear face of the block to eliminate that as part of the problem while you have the bell off>
 
Treblig said:
You should check the rear face of the block to eliminate that as part of the problem while you have the bell off>
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Yes I am going too. You would think being a brand new engine, it would meet recommend tolerances.
 
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