How to Fix Ugly Hose Clamps

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That is just to cool, I like to see new idea that work, Thank you
 
great tip and looks good mybe you could buy a bunch of them make them up and sell them at twice the price...:cheers::cheers:..........Artie
 
dusterglenn said:
You could go the next step, to a heat-shrink hose clamp. Gates makes them in a variety of sizes. I've sold some to some local street rodders.
http://www.gatespowerpro.com/Comerg...nchInID=600500&CFID=38968593&CFTOKEN=52582042
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We have used these style heat shrink clamps for a few years now, they look nice and clean.

old tired rebel said:
Do these spring clamps work better?
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I would say they do the job just as good, the only down side to the heat shrink clamps is that they are not reusable, and they are not the cheapest thing either. I love super scamps idea! Reusable, and they look tits!
 
BadAss71 said:
We have used these style heat shrink clamps for a few years now, they look nice and clean.


I would say they do the job just as good, the only down side to the heat shrink clamps is that they are not reusable, and they are not the cheapest thing either. I love super scamps idea! Reusable, and they look tits!
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Your right not cheap I use the gates to but only were I don't have to take them off. the gates you cut off with a soldering gun.

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I have a black engine and this is just blowing my mind. I have been trying to figure out how to make those hose clamp look better but couldn't come up with anything. I mean I wasn't staying awake at night trying to come up with something ... but you know what I mean.lol
 
old tired rebel said:
What is this last picture(the blue one)?
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I think it just looks blue in the picture, but that's the heat shrink type clamp. Looks like it was installed and had to be cut off for some reason. That's the only way you can take them off after installation.
 
BadAss71 said:
I think it just looks blue in the picture, but that's the heat shrink type clamp. Looks like it was installed and had to be cut off for some reason. That's the only way you can take them off after installation.
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Had to cut that one off when I put the mod man intake on.
 
old tired rebel said:
Do these spring clamps work better?
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I tried the link quickly and couldn't see any pictures of the constant tension clamps.

The screw type clamps or "worm gear" clamps are what they refer to as "constant diameter" clamps. You set them to a set diameter with your screwdriver.

The spring clamps are refered to as "constant tension" clamps and provide a constant tension or load against the seal.

The constant tension clamps are considered to be the best for preventing leaks. they were made by a company named Mobea and were not available to aftermarket supply shops, only OEM automotive manufacturers. There were a few companies making knock offs similiar to them. I used to design and release heater hoses for one of the big three...

I love Gates products and think that they are one of the best on the market. I am interested to see what their constant tension clamps look like. They came to us in the mid 90's and showed us a hose material that could go over 250 k miles without breaking down and was not as expensive as the "peroxide cured" hoses that were better than the standard material.
 
krazykuda said:
I tried the link quickly and couldn't see any pictures of the constant tension clamps.

The screw type clamps or "worm gear" clamps are what they refer to as "constant diameter" clamps. You set them to a set diameter with your screwdriver.

The spring clamps are refered to as "constant tension" clamps and provide a constant tension or load against the seal.

The constant tension clamps are considered to be the best for preventing leaks. they were made by a company named Mobea and were not available to aftermarket supply shops, only OEM automotive manufacturers. There were a few companies making knock offs similiar to them. I used to design and release heater hoses for one of the big three...

I love Gates products and think that they are one of the best on the market. I am interested to see what their constant tension clamps look like. They came to us in the mid 90's and showed us a hose material that could go over 250 k miles without breaking down and was not as expensive as the "peroxide cured" hoses that were better than the standard material.
Click to expand...

Can these hoses be bought for our cars?
 
old tired rebel said:
Can these hoses be bought for our cars?
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I believe that they can now. If you see ECR printed on the hose, that is it.

Gates did a study and found that there was actually a small voltage and current in the cooling systems. Every vehicle had it's own voltage and current going through it while running (specific to each vehicle). They were able to measure a small voltage and current (like less than 1 volt and milliamps of current) in the cooling systems. They then theroized that there was an electric and chemical reaction happening to degrade the rubber (they called it electro-chemical reaction ---> this is where they got the initials ECR from). They even admitted that if they made this compound available it would hurt their aftermarket sales since it lasted so long. They changed the compound of the rubber to a more resistant one to this phenomena. It was very close to the cost of the base/standard rubber used for the hoses and had test data from vehicles with 225, 000 miles on them and still going. They brought in samples of the two rubber compounds with 225, 000 miles and you could see cracking in the inside of the hoses with the standard rubber, but not on the ECR compounded hoses. The next step up after the standard rubber before this was to use Peroxide cured rubber which increased the cost by 10%. The ECR compound was almost the same cost or within pennies of the standard rubber.

Side note: did you know that the "thread" or "rope" in the middle of the hoses is actually Kevlar. The same material that bullet proof vests are made of (but not enough to stop a bullet). This is where the hose gets its strength to resist bursting under pressure and high temperatures.

Back to the show: I believe that NAPA carries Gates hoses. Go to your NAPA store and ask for Gates hoses. Look on the outside for "ECR" to be printed on the hose. Look carefully all over the hose to find this, as it is not printed very large. If you see this, then it is the improved compound. Check for it on both molded hoses (like upper and lower radiator) and the bulk 1/2, 5/8, and 3/4 inch hose that is sold by the foot (if it is also Gates hose).

When they presented this information to us, there was no explaination as to how or where the electro chemical reaction was coming from or how to cause or prevent it from happening in a vehicle. They had a team of top scientists and chemist working on it to discover it in the first place. They weren't sure what caused it, but were able to verify that it was there. They found that some cars would have like .2 or .3 volts and others near .5 or .6 volts. I transferred to a different department shortly after they showed this to us and do not know if they eventually figured out what caused it and where it came from. However they were able to find out a way to make a rubber that was resistant to it that was cost effective compared to the standard rubber available at that time.
 
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