How to tell if you are overcarbing an engine?

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73dartswingerlover

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im working on a 360 la and will put a 340 torker intake on it.

The enging came from an RV and is basically stock.

Would a holly 750 with vacuum secondary be too much ?
 
The beauty of a vacuum secondary is it only flows as much air as the engine needs. This makes them nice and smooth running on the street. Size wise it's perfect for a 360. That intake wouldn't be my first pic for a basically stock RV engine, but if it's all you have...
 
C130 Chief said:
The beauty of a vacuum secondary is it only flows as much air as the engine needs. This makes them nice and smooth running on the street. Size wise it's perfect for a 360. That intake wouldn't be my first pic for a basically stock RV engine, but if it's all you have...
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Yes it was what i could get at a cheap price. (Intake that is)

So the vacuum part saves me?

That is what i was hoping to hear.

Dont have to worry too much about low compression at the moment?
 
It still needs to be setup/jetted/power valve for you engine.
 
If it's the original torker 340... find a stock 340 4 bbl intake for the engine. Torker 340 is the biggest POS intake ever made for the SB mopar, sp2p is a close second. IMHO.

The torker II 340 is a better piece, still not as good as a dual plane on a stockish engine.

Should have been smelted to make other intakes.

A 750 vac carb is fine once the tune is correct.
 
SP2P on a 360...running track breathing through a straw! Much better suited for a 273/318 in a truck. Just get a stock 318/360 4bbl (there are the same from Mopar) from the boneyard.
 
It was a good price and its basically just to get me going since my budget is running low.

I plan on upgrading to air gap in the future.
 
I understand, but, it's not a good piece at any price. Better to save pennies and buy a Performer RPM or air gap once...

Since you are starting out, I would have sold you a stock 70 340 intake for around 60 delivered and it's a better piece for what you have.

This whole deal is a learning experience. We all learn stuff every day, whether we realize it or not.
 
crackedback said:
I understand, but, it's not a good piece at any price. Better to save pennies and buy a Performer RPM or air gap once...

Since you are starting out, I would have sold you a stock 70 340 intake for around 60 delivered and it's a better piece for what you have.

This whole deal is a learning experience. We all learn stuff every day, whether we realize it or not.
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Cool. And I do appreciate the advice!

Like i said im just in a deep hurry to get the car back as its my daily driver and took what i could get at this point.

In a couple years i plan on starting phase 2 of my plan which will be engine and suspension upgrades.

My car was a slant 6 and needed body work.

Putting in a 360 with a 600cfm vs carb and a cheap set of headers.

Switching rear to 8.75 SG with 3.23 gears.

Already beefed up torsion bars and gonna put disc front brakes.

That plus the body work and paint has basically blown my meager budget.

As long as this intake wont ruin my engine ill be fine with any power loss.

It will still be better than my slant six on power.
 
You would be WAY better ahead to find a 340/360 cast factory intake, "for cheap" and sell that torker to the NEXT unsuspecting "user"

Crackedback gave you good advice
 
All good. Money constraints suck when it comes to these things. The body work devil is the worst... LOL

If you are considering buying something, ask about it here. I'm sure you get some info and be able to make an informed choice with the additional information.

600 cfm would work as would the 750. Especially a vacuum carb. Mopars tend to eat up carb cfm pretty easily. Have fun building and driving the car, that's what counts! :)
 
crackedback said:
All good. Money constraints suck when it comes to these things. The body work devil is the worst... LOL

If you are considering buying something, ask about it here. I'm sure you get some info and be able to make an informed choice with the additional information.

600 cfm would work as would the 750. Especially a vacuum carb. Mopars tend to eat up carb cfm pretty easily. Have fun building and driving the car, that's what counts! :)
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Sure will thanks!

From what ive read the rpm air gap seems to be best but like i said as soon as i get the $$ it may be the first thing i do.

Right now its just a peicemeal do what i can to get it on the road and then make a legit plan on a actual build before i go buy anything else.
 
Air Gap, RPM or LD340 are really good intakes. All work about the same. Even the performer 318/360 works well with a little elbow grease in the intake ports and a 1" spacer.

Always better to spend $ once than multiple times when direction changes. It's tough buying 2 or 3 of the same item because the wind changed direction. BTDT! LOL
 
some test reports have said otherwise about the torkers bad rep, run it for now if its all u have, who knows, a 4 hole spacer may even help it out.750 is just fine on a 360
 
73dartswingerlover said:
Cool. And I do appreciate the advice!

Like i said im just in a deep hurry to get the car back as its my daily driver and took what i could get at this point.

In a couple years i plan on starting phase 2 of my plan which will be engine and suspension upgrades.

My car was a slant 6 and needed body work.

Putting in a 360 with a 600cfm vs carb and a cheap set of headers.

Switching rear to 8.75 SG with 3.23 gears.

Already beefed up torsion bars and gonna put disc front brakes.

That plus the body work and paint has basically blown my meager budget.

As long as this intake wont ruin my engine ill be fine with any power loss.

It will still be better than my slant six on power.
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Get a double roller timing chain as soon as you can afford one, that should be the next step... The stock chains aren't very good....
 
rigger3006 said:
some test reports have said otherwise about the torkers bad rep, run it for now if its all u have, who knows, a 4 hole spacer may even help it out.750 is just fine on a 360
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Do tell? Street driven cars without a ton of gear and converter don't like that intake compared to even a performer 318/360.

The second lteration of the Torker II is MUCH better but still soft down low. If max HP is all that is sought, then it's OK. Driven below 3K, not so much for either.

I agree, it's what he has so he's going to run it.
 
Honestly it should be worlds better than my /6 with a single barrel carb so i wont know the diff till i can afford better.
 
Well a google turned up soem between 30-60$ that doesnt seem bad.... any ideas what would be best bang for the buck?
 
Engine Pro are pretty good and not really expensive.
 
73dartswingerlover said:
Which one would be good to get? Are they expensive?
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I like this one, its affordable for it's quality and I've run them for years and literally over 200,000 miles on daily drivers... It's a true roller double roller, one step above the stock 340 chain... I checked one once at 125,000 miles and it didn't need to be replaced....

Edelbrock Performer-Link True Roller Timing Chain Set


Be sure to check that the timing chain is getting the proper oiling when you replace it... Here's a thread on how the front of a small block goes together:

How to Assemble the Front of a Small Block
 
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