If u really wanna tune it, start with the float levels, set'em w/car running and sight holes, make it so the fuel just starts to spill out of the sight holes.
Then set the idle, should only need about 3/4-1 turn out on all, make sure all idle screws are equal when comes to the amount of turns out or in.
Remember you wanna open [counter clockwise] till you get the highest idle rpm then your good. If you go too far the idle speed will be too rich and rpm will drop, so you'll know when that happens.
A dial back/tach style time light will come in real handy.
Get a vacuum gauge and check vac in gear@idle or if 4spd just check what it is at idle then go 2 ratings below example=8 inch gets a 6.5 power valve.[If you found the pv to be rated higher than the vac reading you got, then you'll need to check/reset the idle once the correct rating pv is in place]
Then you could go with a smaller shooter till it stumbles then go back up in size till it doesn't stumble, if it already stumbles, you might need to step up the shooter size.=if it go's a lil then bogs it's too much, if it stumbles/pops/cuts out then go's..it's too lean a shot.
This is assuming you have the timing set or at least real close to what you need.
But now at this point you'll wanna really work on the initial/curve & total timing.
Once the total is at least nailed down you can start jetting accordingly, check plug color and maybe lean the primary out till it slightly surges on the freeway cruise, once it does, pull off and jet it up 2 sizes, then if only running 1 pv in the primary, you'll wanna make sure the secondary jetting is within 7-10 sizes as the primary, in otherwords...you can take the seconday down to the limit of 7 sizes and then work you're way up till it feels good @wot, always check the plugs too.
good luck.