hughes 1.65 shaft roller rockers for magnum heads....

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POS Dakota said:
Brian, here's a picture of the roller resting on the valve tip (closed position)...just in case what I was saying didnt convey the idea. hehe

IMG00165-20100317-0655.jpg


Too far toward the intake side, correct?

I'll get the sweep pattern later. I have a meeting this morning and I'll do some more tinkering soon as I have time.
Click to expand...

Yep that's too far off IMO. Those valves I use are .096 taller than oem so I wouldn't think that would be enough to do that. The valves are sitting exactly in the same spot as the LA heads we do, and the Hughes LA rockers fit perfectly and the sweep is down in the .040 range.
If they were typical stud and guide plate rockers you just lengthen the pushrod to get what you want. But those you'll have to raise up some. I think using the cut guide plate method you talked about might be the best way to go. You want as much support under that pedestal as you can get.
Brian
 
ou812 said:
Yep that's too far off IMO. Those valves I use are .096 taller than oem so I wouldn't think that would be enough to do that. The valves are sitting exactly in the same spot as the LA heads we do, and the Hughes LA rockers fit perfectly and the sweep is down in the .040 range.
If they were typical stud and guide plate rockers you just lengthen the pushrod to get what you want. But those you'll have to raise up some. I think using the cut guide plate method you talked about might be the best way to go. You want as much support under that pedestal as you can get.
Brian
Click to expand...

Agreed. I just wanted to see what you thought. You're the guy who sees a lot of these situations all the time and has to solve them. I'll give that a try.
It's like I was saying earlier. it's not really a problem per se, just something requiring an adjustment and I wanted to make sure about the smart way to go about it.

We'll see how that works, and I'll keep you updated, since maybe there could be another oddball who wants magnum heads too. LOL
 
Mad Dart said:
How about using a Grade 8 Washer to raise them up?

Just throwing out ideas......
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Yep, even that would work. I played around with normal washers, but I would never use anything other than something high grade and hardened.

The main emphasis is that the pedestal base will be well supported. I'm sure the modded guideplate, or a wider washer with a proper sized hole to locate itself properly would work.

Thanks for the help and the interest.
 
This looks a lot better shimmed up 2.5mm.

25mmshim.jpg


I'll have to still see what the width and location of the sweep pattern across the stem tip is. I just wanted to know what i'd need for now. Final geometry will be squared away when these are on the assembled short block with cam in it that I still need to get.

I'll get a coat of paint on these this weekend.
Should be a really nice setup...
 

That looks better.

At least the issue is on the side of your valve stem that is easier to correct.

Nice work getting it in shape
 
Man, this makes me wish I had taken more/better pics of my Iron Ram/EQ/whatever heads before I bolted them on.

heads.jpg


Pretty nice though. Funny how after all this time there's a ton of non-Mopar heads for small blocks.

Now if Edelbrock would just come out with a Victor Jr......
 
crackedback said:
That looks better.

At least the issue is on the side of your valve stem that is easier to correct.

Nice work getting it in shape
Click to expand...

Yeah I think that looks ok. See, this is kind of a weird deal because typically with a magnum you're using a stud where the rocker can easily be raised/lowered, and juggled with longer/shorter pushrod to achieve the correct geometry.

But I'm using a head meant for a stud with a pedestal shaft rocker because using an LA head is the easy way.:toothy10:

I really wanted to use these shaft rockers because they're unique and I like them. This is what its all about though. Figuring out how to make things work the way you want them to. If it's too easy, there's no gratification in the end. Besides, if this is the biggest "issue" I have, I'll take it. It aint nothing.

happy with everything so far...
 
Those came out a couple weeks after I bought a set of their stud mounted Magnum roller rockers (the stainless ones, not the blue ones). I wish I had known these would be coming out so i could have waited.
 
On the Hughes Stainless rockers, are they just using 1.6 ratio Chevy Comp rockers?
 
I run Hughes rockers on my 416 with Eddie heads. I had to shim the shafts up .120 to get the roller tip closer to the center of the stem in the closed valve position. I had the same issue before I did that as you did with the roller being way back on the valve towards the intake side. I called Dave Hughes and and emailed him some pics of the sweep pattern and he right away said I wasn't getting full lift because of the wrong valve geometry. He said that it is common on LA motors to have to raise up the rocker shafts to correct this problem. I used his aluminum rocker shim kit to do the job and so far it's worked out okay. He said that aluminum shims can be formed easier to the shaft when torqued down and will seal the oil hole better than the steel ones do so that's why they use the aluminum ones over the steel shims. Plus his kit shows you how to trim the shims to get the best fit if you need to use multiple shims instead of just one to get the height you need.
 
416stroker said:
I run Hughes rockers on my 416 with Eddie heads. I had to shim the shafts up .120 to get the roller tip closer to the center of the stem in the closed valve position. I had the same issue before I did that as you did with the roller being way back on the valve towards the intake side. I called Dave Hughes and and emailed him some pics of the sweep pattern and he right away said I wasn't getting full lift because of the wrong valve geometry. He said that it is common on LA motors to have to raise up the rocker shafts to correct this problem. I used his aluminum rocker shim kit to do the job and so far it's worked out okay. He said that aluminum shims can be formed easier to the shaft when torqued down and will seal the oil hole better than the steel ones do so that's why they use the aluminum ones over the steel shims. Plus his kit shows you how to trim the shims to get the best fit if you need to use multiple shims instead of just one to get the height you need.
Click to expand...

Are we talking about the same type of head? Iam using the magnum head. Is this what you're using too? What I'm getting out of this is that you're using the LA head. I dont see a shim kit in the magnum engine section. only in the LA section. Could you please clarify on that?

I have also seen a lot of necessity to shim for proper geometry, but I dont even know anyone who has my rockers yet and dont know what their experiences were.

lemme know!
 
LXguy said:
On the Hughes Stainless rockers, are they just using 1.6 ratio Chevy Comp rockers?
Click to expand...

All of the aftermarket magnum roller rockers are a chevy design to be specific. Same exact thing. Nothing wrong with it. As far as who makes them for hughes who knows? Even if they are the comp stainless rockers, the comps are good stuff. I just wanted more than studs so this is what I am using and finding I have the same geometry tweaking issues as a lot of the LA crowd, only I have to go about it a different way than they do by using a flat shim under the pedestal instead of a concave spacer like the LA shafts.

The cool thing about this is that unlike a shaft or my pedestal shafts, with a stud and chevy rocker, the geometry is WAY easy to correct unlike LA and mag shaft rollers. You just adjust the height of the rocer on the stud until you get a good pattern.
 
I was mearly commenting on your valve geometry based on the pictures you provided and saying that I had the same issue even though I'm running LA heads and that yes, I had to raise that shaft to correct it by shimming under it! I was under the impression that you were wondering about the position of your roller tip on the valve and if it would work or not and if you needed to do some shimming to! At least I thought that's what you were asking in the first threads with the pictures. LA or Magnum matters not. What matters is the correct valve geometry. The rocker roller tip is supposed to be just slightly back of the center of the valve stem in the closed valve postion. It will roll out from there and then back during complete valve lift and seat.
 
POS Dakota said:
All of the aftermarket magnum roller rockers are a chevy design to be specific. Same exact thing. Nothing wrong with it. As far as who makes them for hughes who knows? Even if they are the comp stainless rockers, the comps are good stuff. I just wanted more than studs so this is what I am using and finding I have the same geometry tweaking issues as a lot of the LA crowd, only I have to go about it a different way than they do by using a flat shim under the pedestal instead of a concave spacer like the LA shafts.

The cool thing about this is that unlike a shaft or my pedestal shafts, with a stud and chevy rocker, the geometry is WAY easy to correct unlike LA and mag shaft rollers. You just adjust the height of the rocer on the stud until you get a good pattern.
Click to expand...

I didn't mean to imply that there was a problem with doing it that way. I've got a set of the Comp rockers. I thought maybe I'd see if Hughes would sell me just the studs etc from their kit.

Steve
 
LXguy said:
I didn't mean to imply that there was a problem with doing it that way. I've got a set of the Comp rockers. I thought maybe I'd see if Hughes would sell me just the studs etc from their kit.

Steve
Click to expand...

You can also order the studs from comp, or summit.
I have a set of them here and maybe I can get you the part number if I still have it, or at a minimum, the dimensions...sometimes comp screws up on these and sends out an almost identical stud with a shorter upper portion and those won't wor is why i said that.

You need guideplates too? I have those sitting up in my office from playing around shimming my rockers. I can probably get those part numbers too.
 
Ya gotta love huge's stuff,especially thier valvetrain goodies.
 
Any part numbers you want to send would be appreciated.

I've got the old Crane stud conversion kit sitting here, but I've heard the geometry is inferior to the hughes stuff.

I'm running the stock valvetrain on my Magnum right now, and its acceptable, but obviously not ideal.
 
needsaresto said:
Ya gotta love huge's stuff,especially thier valvetrain goodies.
Click to expand...

I could have bought one of those sets of rockers off ebay for 150 bucks.
They might have even been great...but the thing about these rockers in specific is they are the only ones I know of short of a set of 1000+ dollar jesel sportsmans that are shaft rockers for the magnum.

With a hyd. roller cam and these shaft rockers, it should be a really nice smooth revver and make good power. The main thing I like is not having to constantly reset the last typical in a solid that is raced. I want simplicity and ease of maintenance. I want to drive it and spend more time driving it, than under it, or leaning over it.:-D
 
LXguy said:
Any part numbers you want to send would be appreciated.

I've got the old Crane stud conversion kit sitting here, but I've heard the geometry is inferior to the hughes stuff.

I'm running the stock valvetrain on my Magnum right now, and its acceptable, but obviously not ideal.
Click to expand...

You got it, I'll take a look when I get home in a little bit and PM you what info I have.
 
416stroker said:
I was mearly commenting on your valve geometry based on the pictures you provided and saying that I had the same issue even though I'm running LA heads and that yes, I had to raise that shaft to correct it by shimming under it! I was under the impression that you were wondering about the position of your roller tip on the valve and if it would work or not and if you needed to do some shimming to! At least I thought that's what you were asking in the first threads with the pictures. LA or Magnum matters not. What matters is the correct valve geometry. The rocker roller tip is supposed to be just slightly back of the center of the valve stem in the closed valve postion. It will roll out from there and then back during complete valve lift and seat.
Click to expand...

You're correct, and thanks for the info.
 
PAH.jpg


Rockers on the heads...along with some chrysler red.
I can only look at bare iron for so long before I have to do something about it man...
 
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