Hurst competition or A833 issues

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Lik

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Hello group

I am having a super random problem when downshifting into second, or attempting to shift aggressively from 2nd to 3rd where the shifter appears to be the culprit.

Transmission locks up in second gear, yet shifter is in "neutral" gate. Only way to correct it is to climb under the car and knock the 1-2 linkage back into neutral manually.

I have set the stops according to the procedure, and also adjusted the linkages with the pin in place according to the procedure.

Any tips/tricks/hints on where to start looking? Shifter assembly feels a little sloppy, wondering if there is an Internal adjustment/tightening that can be done to get rid of slop.

Doesn't seem to be an issue with the transmission cover detent since the shifter is in neutral when this occurs.

Thanks for any input
 
That's a shifter problem.
I think there's a part missing, or installed wrong.
Do this;
Take the shifter off, and clamp the body in a vise, in such manner that it can be shifted. Put nuts and washers on the mounting bolts
Put the shifter into second.
Try to immobilize the 1-2 lever.
Try to shift it 2 to 3, and back again. Try sneaking thru the gate while not actually in the gate. If you can get gears without the levers being in a true neutral, then a separator plate is either missing or damaged beyond repair. The shifter will have to come apart.
STOP!!
I think once the shifter is apart, that there might be a gazillion ways to put it together, but only one is correct. Many many years ago, I spent an entire afternoon fussing with one, before I got it right. (Yeah it works perfect now)
The take away here is to take lots of pictures, or just sent it to Brewers.
Those separator plates, I think are stainless steel, so if yurs is damaged, IDK if it can be repaired. There should be exactly ONE separator plate between each two levers. If memory serves me, there are three levers and 4 separators, and the spring-loaded hammer-head thing in the stick-handle, and every part has to be in there and correctly installed, and you cannot see any damage until it is all exploded on your bench. Take lots of pictures, at every step.
But maybe you'll be lucky and somebody just put it together wrong.
 
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You don't think it could be effed up detents in the gearbox?
 
Personally no, simply because when it gets into this condition, the 1-2 nor 3-4 linkages move when you try moving the shifter. It just "stuck" in neutral. As soon as I move the 1-2 to neutral, the shifter functions fine again
 
Hello group

I am having a super random problem when downshifting into second, or attempting to shift aggressively from 2nd to 3rd where the shifter appears to be the culprit.

Transmission locks up in second gear, yet shifter is in "neutral" gate. Only way to correct it is to climb under the car and knock the 1-2 linkage back into neutral manually.

I have set the stops according to the procedure, and also adjusted the linkages with the pin in place according to the procedure.

Any tips/tricks/hints on where to start looking? Shifter assembly feels a little sloppy, wondering if there is an Internal adjustment/tightening that can be done to get rid of slop.

Doesn't seem to be an issue with the transmission cover detent since the shifter is in neutral when this occurs.

Thanks for any input
Have a look at this...

 
Worn bushings and/or holes in levers.
Wear in shifter internals.
Worn or bent fork in trans.
Combinations of the above.
I'd at least clean and lube the shifter.
Maybe a little trial and error after........
Try backing off the stops, add or subtract a turn or two on the shift rod adjustment, one at a time to tune for best performance. Then reset stops.
 

Ive shifted some worn out junk without issues.

There are two main causes of this.

Clutch adjustment.

Driver mistakes.

Are you just shifting it like a regular shift, or are you attempting to power shift the box?
 
I've seen that whatever they are called the "separator plates" in the shifter can get AFU
 
The gearshift levers are worn.

If the squared off part of the lever is no longer square, the shift arm will turn on the lever before moving the fork.

Depth of the lever is shallow, shift arm rectangular hole is deep.

Contact Brewer's, send gearshift levers to them, they send back levers with a deeper squared off part.

My trans would run through the gears fine when the engine was not running, but not shift into 3rd.
Basically, it was still in second, just enough, to prevent going into 3rd.

19:38 in the video shows the cover/gearshift levers:
 
This reminds me. Back when I had the 440-6 70 RR, for some reason I got the hankerin'---and no good reason--- to think the competition plus might be better than the factory pistol grip, which is mounted in rubber in the shifter.

The SHIFT LEVERS of the comp plus WERE SLOPPY on the gearbox shift shafts!!!! BRAND NEW!!! At the time, I doubt the RR had 40K on the clock. I used to chop small pieces of ---I don't remember what thickness--feeler gauge blade, and stick it into the "play" between the shift shaft rectangle and the shift lever.
 
This right here. Don't listen to so called gurus. Call one. He participates very regularly on this forum and he's always glad to help. Dan Brewer is a good guy and will get you straightened out, regardless of what the issue is. It could be a shifter issue, but if your adjusting it correctly, that kinda decreases that possibility a little.....unless the thing is just slam wore out and Dan will be able to help you make that determination.
 
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