I cracked my Eagle crank...

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You sure the crank receiver wasn't out of whack? 3 times is NOT a charm here...BTW I bought my cast crank from Flatlanders about 3 years ago. Dont even see them listed now.
 
K1 makes really good cranks! That being so does eagle, as long as its a forged crank (I'm using a forged eagle crank with their ESP armor in my 340). I'm not cast part fan and always spend the little extra for the forged, yes it's a couple hundred buck worth but thats cheap insurance to me.
Sorry to hear about the failure.
If the price are the same (or within 100 bucks) I'd go for that K1 all day.
 
Sorry to hear.I also had my share of issues with convertors,d.shafts,trans and rears.My 410 is also getting freshened up.Lessons learned over the past couple years about what works best.Good luck.
 
I am having a hard time believing that the converter had any thing to do with this. He said no vibrations or fitment problems. Have seen 360's ran with a 318 converter and never broke the crank. Just bearing issues.
 
jos51700 said:
Are the Eagle cranks made in China?
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yes as far as I can deduce. They say they are offshore castings to US specs. And all are X-ray'd before shipping and its a modern plant, yadda yadda. So is their forged cranks, and I thought I read that the same plant makes them for MP and SCAT and dimes to dollars K1 too (nowhere in the K1 literature does it state where they are made and if in USA, it would be everywhere). Cant make them here for under a G and make a profit. K1's made here?

StrokerValiant, I should have called it a convertor hub register..you know, the socket the convertor snout goes in.. if that is off center, the concentric convertor hub will be flailing around in there like it was off center. You would think a convertor shop would have the necessary stuff to guarantee concentricity of the hub. And I read that you fixed the convertor hub 3 times?
 
pishta - Pretty much all cranks are cast in China. BPE, K1, and everyone elses. Some are finish machined there, some are finished here, some have a better inspection process. But they are all chinese. It's the finish quality and quality control is what really seperates the product.
On the crank register - I've seen several convertors that had hub issues over the years. It is fairly common. Sizing, location, etc., and from most manufacturers.
 
Stroker valiant - I feel your pain.

Mine cracked through the same journal - and it looks like yours started at the journal balance hole just like mine.

2012-01-30082710.jpg
 
why are these Eagle Cast Cranks grinded so much in this area? I noticed this also in Rat Patrols thread. I´ve got a cast crank from scat, no grinding in this area as far as i remember...

Michael
 
I'm suprised that anyone would be suprised when the Eagle cast crank fails. All it takes is a few minutes and you should see it's garbage. A stock cast crank as well as the MP,Scat cast cranks are far superior in quality. I still find it hard to believe anyone would install this crank after looking at it for a minute. Well i guess it just proves PT Barnam was correct.
 
I'll run my 30 year old stock trash (or 13 year old Magnum trash) instead of increase the percentage of my car that was made overseas...especially China. Seriously, if you're going to use imported stuff, use good imported stuff.
 
I do not repeat something that I heard on the net as that is the last place to learn. In this case just have a look at the crank in question(Eagle cast 4") next to a factory cast crank,if you don't see the difference you should take up knitting or some other sport.LOL Whats really stunning is the engine builder EXPERTS that do not see the problems before sending them out to a customer. I ordered one for my daily driver truck and in a few minutes had it back to Summit as it was crap, a buddy was building a mild bracket engine at the same time. I warned him that it would be best to send that crank back but he thought it would be ok(he owns a racing engine shop and builds and machines stuff for a living.LOL). The crank broke on him in less than a season and took out most of his build and cost a lot of $$$. Well I understand that this will not be caught by many but I'd help if I could. It has nothing to do with a crank being cast!! I cast metals daily and not all are the same. When you add work that a 4 yr old child could do while blindfolded and drunk it's not a hard choice if you know what your looking at.
 
Locomotion said:
Sorry to hear about your bad luck. But I couldn't help but wonder.....if the converter was assembled off-center, wouldn't it have been difficult to bolt up to the flexplate and then wouldn't it have taken out the converter bushing and/or trans pump before the crank?

Not taking sides, just trying to be objective and consider all the possibilities.
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Right on Myron the crank cracking issues are not related to the other problems.
 
Lunati's Sledgehammer and Pro Series cranks are American made. Callies crankshafts are American made. Howards 4340 crankshafts are American made.
 
i've heard that even on the Eagle forged cranks, the journals all need to be mic'ed out, especially at the edges of the journals. something to do with the machining at the factory, the cutters get dull near each end of the journal, so that there are raised areas at each end.

in other words, when you get a new Eagle crank, it needs to be blueprint checked before installing.
 
moparlover said:
i've heard that even on the Eagle forged cranks, the journals all need to be mic'ed out, especially at the edges of the journals. something to do with the machining at the factory, the cutters get dull near each end of the journal, so that there are raised areas at each end.

in other words, when you get a new Eagle crank, it needs to be blueprint checked before installing.
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Yeah the journals should be mic'd. I used an eagle forged crank in a 418 build a couple yrs. ago and it had quite a bit of journal taper. Had to send it out to be re-ground. For that matter if your building a high performance engine all parts should be checked over thoroughly no matter who's parts your using.
 
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