OP last on 7:35 PM yesterday, I guess he thought you guys were ragging on him. LMAO
I grounded coil positive to block?
- Thread starter NHscamp
- Start date
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Or maybe he has a life and the car is a hobby that he plays with when he can?
Not everybody spends countless hours here.........like some of us!
Not everybody spends countless hours here.........like some of us!
I learned about 10 years ago on here I must not get insulted, mad, pissed off, my feelings hurt, or in general, get my panties in a waud ( spell check is where!??) every time I ask advice and I get the "treatment"!!! lol
I just figure if these guys were not giving me some grief, then they don't like me!
I just figure if these guys were not giving me some grief, then they don't like me!
He'll be back.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Waud is wad. I'll be your spell checker!!!
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
You can have both ignitions on the car, you can run a msd on a 4 prong or any ballast, whether correct or not ..it will run.
Imo He may have hurt the box, but if he is using a ballast... he might have just toasted it if he is lucky.
Imo He may have hurt the box, but if he is using a ballast... he might have just toasted it if he is lucky.
Yes but you have to spell with a Tx. drawl and Southern twang!!! lol
NHscamp
Go big or go home!
I apologize gentlemen I do go to bed at 8 o’clock and I’m out of the house by 4:30 AM daily.
Got home a few minutes ago and no there are no headlights working.
Yes I left everything in place and wired as far as the Mopar box and wires go. Should I unplug/remove it?
I am looking for a fusible link now and yet to find it. Thank you again for all your help
Got home a few minutes ago and no there are no headlights working.
Yes I left everything in place and wired as far as the Mopar box and wires go. Should I unplug/remove it?
I am looking for a fusible link now and yet to find it. Thank you again for all your help
NHscamp
Go big or go home!
The four wires on the right are the stock wires that are bundled together and connected to the small red wire to the MSD box
NHscamp
Go big or go home!
I did find a fusible link it does appear it has 13 V on the red wire where the wire goes into the bulkhead there is no power. Can I buy a fusible link or do I eliminate it ?
NHscamp
Go big or go home!
Yes I went through it when I got home and I did find a fusible link that appears to be bad do I eliminate it?
NHscamp
Go big or go home!
Should I just bypass it and eliminates it?
It’s not good idea to remove the fuseable link. Kim
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NHscamp
Go big or go home!
Should I bypass/unplug it all?I just got out of work and did post pictures.
Bummer out of anxiousness I did cut it out and bypassed it and unfortunately it did nothing for me.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
OK I still don't see some answers here......DO YOU HAVE headlights? In other words what works and does not work? If the fuse link is fried, you will not have headlights, tail lights, nothing. No power. If you DO have headlights, then that part of things is OK. Please read my post concerning troubleshooting. You have a meter? Test lamp?
Is the car a stick or automatic?
Is the car a stick or automatic?
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I am going to let take Del the lead on this. You are in good hands! You have to give better input though!
NHscamp
Go big or go home!
Good evening it is an automatic. I posted some pictures above no The headlights do not work. Yes I do have a meter.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
THANKS. It appears to be a major power problem
First, with all wiring connected "as normal", measure voltage with your meter to the large alternator (black) output wire at the alternator stud. That should be "same as battery" at all times. If you have voltage there, pull out the headlight switch and recheck.
Next, wiggle the bulkhead connectors with the light switch "on" and look for any activity in the headlights. Also wiggle the fuse link area. Take the terminal/ connector part in that fuse link area, check it for continuity. That really at this point is the most likely suspect
If you have not done so, probe into the bulkhead connector area where the fuse link connects, and see if you show voltage there. If so,..........
OK next thing I'd do is pull the bulkhead connector sections apart and inspect the terminals. This is a known problem in these girls.
Read this article for information. Don't worry about the bypass part of the article, but it explains part of the problems with the bulkhead connector and ammeter circuit That article also has a simplified diagram which shows a good idea of the primary power distribution
Catalog
The diagram from this article:
Follow along. There are minor differences over the years. From the battery, power gets to the big stud on the starter relay. This is not only a junction point, that stud is also one contact of the starter relay. From there, the fuse link goes through the bulkhead connector, on the RED ammeter wire to the AMMETER. Through the ammeter, and out on the big BLACK wire. A few inches later you get to the WELDED SPLICE. From there power branches off and feeds the IGNITION SWITCH, the FUSE PANEL hot bus, and HEADLIGHTS power. It also feeds back out through the bulkhead connector (BLACK) to the alternator
So WHAT could have failed?
In no particular order, the fuse link, connections at the bulkhead connector (RED), connections at the ammeter, and the welded splice itself.
First, with all wiring connected "as normal", measure voltage with your meter to the large alternator (black) output wire at the alternator stud. That should be "same as battery" at all times. If you have voltage there, pull out the headlight switch and recheck.
Next, wiggle the bulkhead connectors with the light switch "on" and look for any activity in the headlights. Also wiggle the fuse link area. Take the terminal/ connector part in that fuse link area, check it for continuity. That really at this point is the most likely suspect
If you have not done so, probe into the bulkhead connector area where the fuse link connects, and see if you show voltage there. If so,..........
OK next thing I'd do is pull the bulkhead connector sections apart and inspect the terminals. This is a known problem in these girls.
Read this article for information. Don't worry about the bypass part of the article, but it explains part of the problems with the bulkhead connector and ammeter circuit That article also has a simplified diagram which shows a good idea of the primary power distribution
Catalog
The diagram from this article:
Follow along. There are minor differences over the years. From the battery, power gets to the big stud on the starter relay. This is not only a junction point, that stud is also one contact of the starter relay. From there, the fuse link goes through the bulkhead connector, on the RED ammeter wire to the AMMETER. Through the ammeter, and out on the big BLACK wire. A few inches later you get to the WELDED SPLICE. From there power branches off and feeds the IGNITION SWITCH, the FUSE PANEL hot bus, and HEADLIGHTS power. It also feeds back out through the bulkhead connector (BLACK) to the alternator
So WHAT could have failed?
In no particular order, the fuse link, connections at the bulkhead connector (RED), connections at the ammeter, and the welded splice itself.
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67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Also BE CAREFUL. The stuff I'm referring to above is major power primary dist. and IS NOT FUSED except for the fuse link which is poor protection. "I have a story" from years ago, burning up an entire underhood harness due to a shorted alternator..........and then, afterwards...........the fuse link popped
NHscamp
Go big or go home!
Thank you for all of your time I really do appreciate it I will check these things and report back.
I would replace it with more fusible link.
Is that like being his huckleberry?
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Maybe...but no if it means something weird!!! I honestly have no idea what that means, as I'm part of the older crowd!!!
Nothing weird
Huckleberry Doc Holliday GIF - Huckleberry DocHolliday Challenge - Discover & Share GIFs
A huckleberry is a less than desirable substitute for other berries, so when Doc Holliday says it to Errp, he is going to be his stand on for a gun fight.
I'm old too, older than my 67 dart
BTW my money is on fusable link. A direct short long enough to kill the engine is a loooog time
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