My bet is on a spark issue, hook a timing light to it, when it quits, crank it and see if the timing light is pulsing, I bet you lunch it is not.
I have a forklift with a commercial slant 6
- Thread starter Daverockxxzz
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FURY440
Well-Known Member
Does this have a ballast resistor? I know how they work, but just for testings,..jump the resistor and fire it up.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Are you trying to tell me valve clearances don't change with heat?
They close up tighter at temp, do they not?
FURY440
Well-Known Member
Yes they do,.but the OP said that nothing was done internally to the engine. I doubt very much it's valve clearance causing this.
Does the engine have good oil pressure at the time of it dying? Does it sound like it's tapping/knocking before it stalls?
I remember back in the early 80's I had a Valiant with a slant six that ran out of oil. It seized up on the parkway on me and my dad came down with oil and after about an hour or so,.it fired up and believe it or not I didn't have an issue with the motor. These slants are pretty much bullet proof IMO.
Does the engine have good oil pressure at the time of it dying? Does it sound like it's tapping/knocking before it stalls?
I remember back in the early 80's I had a Valiant with a slant six that ran out of oil. It seized up on the parkway on me and my dad came down with oil and after about an hour or so,.it fired up and believe it or not I didn't have an issue with the motor. These slants are pretty much bullet proof IMO.
Daverockxxzz
Member
Thanks for your response... We suspect carburetor issue.. We are getting fuel to carburetor, but possibly not enough fuel.cannot flood with choke, so question is cannot find replacement carburetor for industrial, so can we obtain adapter for automotive carburetor?
FURY440
Well-Known Member
Yes, you can get an adapter to use different carbs.
I'm sitting here remembering sooo many similar cases. A Chevy truck, a Lumina, a Ford truck, a Mustang, a Honda Accord, and a Chevy Luv pickup, stand out only because so many others before me had tried to find the fault. Those other mechanics were in situations where they needed to hit it a lick and move on to next job. My cases in memory were parked in my bay or in my driveway with a different mindset. "Find it and fix it! I don't care how long it takes."
Some turned out to be weak electrical connections that failed with temperature change. Burnt contacts in a ignition switch. Tiny chaffed spots in wire casing that would short to ground. Then there was a egr valve that would open and not close until it decided to.
That Luv truck has a short rubber fuel line near the fuel filter that would slowly suck closed and stay closed until it decided to open again. Fuel at the carb but not enough to run.
Oh, just remembered a Aerostar van 2.8 carbureted V6. It would start fine but idle rich as it slowly flooded itself. A check ball in the carb wasn't seating properly in the seat machined in that pot metal casting. I found a single speck of something embedded into the pot metal. That might be the most comparable since it did take a day for the plugs to dry.
My curiosity and determination did often cost me in the "what it paid" aspect. The "pat myself on the back" satisfaction compensated. Good luck and let us know what you find.
Some turned out to be weak electrical connections that failed with temperature change. Burnt contacts in a ignition switch. Tiny chaffed spots in wire casing that would short to ground. Then there was a egr valve that would open and not close until it decided to.
That Luv truck has a short rubber fuel line near the fuel filter that would slowly suck closed and stay closed until it decided to open again. Fuel at the carb but not enough to run.
Oh, just remembered a Aerostar van 2.8 carbureted V6. It would start fine but idle rich as it slowly flooded itself. A check ball in the carb wasn't seating properly in the seat machined in that pot metal casting. I found a single speck of something embedded into the pot metal. That might be the most comparable since it did take a day for the plugs to dry.
My curiosity and determination did often cost me in the "what it paid" aspect. The "pat myself on the back" satisfaction compensated. Good luck and let us know what you find.
Bulldozer
free ice cream sandwiches
I would check and recheck every grounding point paying special attention to the ignition box. I would even switch it out just because. New doesn't always mean good
slantsixdan
=..=
It's still an open question what's causing this, because it still doesn't sound like any diagnosis is being done. Lots of guesses and suspicions, lots of blind alleys and dead ends, lots of shouted-out names of random engine parts and suggestions to re-replace stuff that's already been replaced, but no answers to basic questions like:
Which parts have you replaced when you say you've "replaced the electronic ignition system"?
You've got fuel (how do you know/where and how are you checking?) and spark (how do you know/where and how are you checking?) when the engine will run...which one of them do you NOT have when it won't run (how do you know/where and how are you checking)?
Which parts have you replaced when you say you've "replaced the electronic ignition system"?
You've got fuel (how do you know/where and how are you checking?) and spark (how do you know/where and how are you checking?) when the engine will run...which one of them do you NOT have when it won't run (how do you know/where and how are you checking)?
FURY440
Well-Known Member
I agree with slantsixdan on this. Please let us know what was causing it when you find out.
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
Enough swapping parts, you need simple diagnostics. Maybe hire smarter mechanics at the place. I carry an in-line spark tester ($3 Harbor Freight) and a can of starter fluid ($1) in all my vehicles except the diesels. I have trouble-shot my cars and other people's on the road. First fork is "bad spark" or "bad fuel".
Decades ago, one young lady at a picnic had a fairly new Jetta that wouldn't start. One "professional" mechanic there said, "must be a broken timing belt". I sprayed starter fluid in the intake and it fired right up and idled great. She didn't know why she couldn't drive home like that. First time I had seen a Bosch Jetronic fuel injection system, but found the fuel inlet hose, disconnected and found no fuel pressure. The Bosch electric pump had failed (again).
Decades ago, one young lady at a picnic had a fairly new Jetta that wouldn't start. One "professional" mechanic there said, "must be a broken timing belt". I sprayed starter fluid in the intake and it fired right up and idled great. She didn't know why she couldn't drive home like that. First time I had seen a Bosch Jetronic fuel injection system, but found the fuel inlet hose, disconnected and found no fuel pressure. The Bosch electric pump had failed (again).
slantsixdan
=..=
Here's another one: '64 Dart with a 273. Real nice car with a weird problem: it would start up easily from cold, but stall out after about 7 to 8 minutes' runtime. All the tune-up parts and the fuel and air filters had been replaced, some of them multiple times. The carburetor had been pulled, cleaned adjusted, and reinstalled several times. The fuel tank had been boiled out and a new strainer installed. It would still start easily from cold, then stall out after 7 or 8 minutes...but only if it were actually being driven. If it was started from cold and allowed to sit there, it would keep running fine until you kicked the accelerator to drop the idle down, then it would stall.
It took observation and diagnosis (sitting there watching the engine run) to figure out what was wrong: the choke thermostat had been taken apart at some point, and reassembled with the coil spring the wrong way round. Instead of pushing gradually weaker on the choke pushrod, it pushed stronger and stronger as it heated up, eventually strangling the engine. The choke adjustment had been cranked way out of its intended position, so there was enough tension to push the choke lightly closed from dead cold, but after 7 or 8 minutes that choke was CLOSED like a sprung rat trap.
A new choke thermostat -- not a replacement engine -- fixed that problem.
It took observation and diagnosis (sitting there watching the engine run) to figure out what was wrong: the choke thermostat had been taken apart at some point, and reassembled with the coil spring the wrong way round. Instead of pushing gradually weaker on the choke pushrod, it pushed stronger and stronger as it heated up, eventually strangling the engine. The choke adjustment had been cranked way out of its intended position, so there was enough tension to push the choke lightly closed from dead cold, but after 7 or 8 minutes that choke was CLOSED like a sprung rat trap.
A new choke thermostat -- not a replacement engine -- fixed that problem.
FURY440
Well-Known Member
slantsixdan,.I wonder if that's the issue with this /6. OP said the carb was rebuilt,.maybe they did the same thing with the choke pull off??
Didn't this problem exist before the carb job, thus prompting such?Not that someone didn't d**k w/it prior for some reason. For an engine to just flat out refuse to start warm,
it can't be too hard to figure out, pull plug....wet?dribble fuel/start fluid.....cough/stumble try/start-die? spark AT PLUG......bright blue?
For the most part, for mechanical valves to be tight enough to cause a stall/refuse to start, it would't be running well before that point at all.
PCV hose in good shape?Not softening & collapsing when warm? How long is the crank time in the morn. when it restarts? If it were hyd. lifters, and the oil press. dropped to
near -0-, I'm not sure if all the lifters collapsing would kill the eng......but you'd think you'd hear that occurring.
HenryBallard
Member
In this case, it is necessary not only to replace the capacitor but to carry out a comprehensive repair of the forklift. At this stage, the forklift is completely dismantled, the mast and traction battery (for electric forklifts) are removed, the components and parts are cleaned from contamination, the working fluids are removed and disposed of, and so on. In the same way, the necessary parts are replaced and cleaned. It is so long and expensive that it is better to buy a used forklift and not worry about it. For example, machinerydealer.co.uk has used forklifts at a very reasonable price.
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Distributor?
pishta
I know I'm right....
My Mazda would start right up, 3 minutes later I was on the road...2 minutes later I was bailing off the freeway with no power and an eventual stall. Would not start. Waited 2-3 minutes. would start up again only to die a minute later. Fuel filter was stuffed. Would allow idle fuel flow though but when you got on it, that 'ol Nikki fuel bowl would drain and not fill fast enough. found the pump was weak also after I replaced the filter! That choke spring reversed is hard to even picture how they could manage that.
Plenty to learn for others.
As I was reading through this I got to thinking about my abused 1974 Gremlin. I ran the cooling system dry one warm 100*+ summer day. The engine "just stopped" and i had to let it cool down then fill the radiator with water from a business's fountain out front. No tadpoles or water skeeters were harmed.
Tadpoles and water skeeters wouldn't have harmed that engine anyways.
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