I wanted to post this here so the slant guys see it

-

Ruger64

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2012
Messages
307
Reaction score
6
Location
Pa.
I checked my 1965 Belvedere, slant 6/225 that I just bought, and the Timing Tab Indicator is gone!
I don't know what years fit, here's a photo of where it bolts too, and another little hole is needed in the tab.
I am sure different years changed the timing degrees on the indicator tabs.
If anyone has one laying around, please let me know!


A member shared this photo with me on slant 6 forum, of what it looks like!



 
only b body slant parts I have are engine brackets/mounts. oil pan out of 65 (2).
i'm no mechanic but I time mine by e ar, don't own a light. then two, the rubber deal on the balance will move over time!
 
only b body slant parts I have are engine brackets/mounts. oil pan out of 65 (2).
i'm no mechanic but I time mine by e ar, don't own a light. then two, the rubber deal on the balance will move over time!

Thanks! I just never caught it. I bought it a few weeks ago. And have the carb off for rebuilt. And happened to look down at the area, and saw "nothing there"....:pale:
 
One on a '66 Belvedere if you need one
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0393.jpg
    49.5 KB · Views: 489
One on a '66 Belvedere if you need one

Thank you!!!! I think I found one local, not sure for a few days. I will get back to you, thanks so much!!!
As shown above the one I posted. The number set up looks different? Does that matter? Someone shared that photo with me, and said thats the one I need. I am confused.
 
These look to be just different shapes and show different ranges. You can always determine the actual TDC of cylinder 1 with the right procedures to be sure whatever indicator you use is correct vs. the mark on the crank pulley.
 
I was told 67 and back are all the same. I am confused. Some seem to be different. Unless the TDC may be in the same spot on all the from 67 and back.
 
I was told 67 and back are all the same. I am confused. Some seem to be different. Unless the TDC may be in the same spot on all the from 67 and back.

TDC mark on the damper is the same 67 and back. Also same 68 and newer.
 
Okay, my friend adjusted my valves and made it look easy.
icon_biggrin.gif

I did bring it home, and later checked my timing. I dunno.
The timing mark was not even close to the tab.
I turned the indicator on my gun, until it hit TDC, and my gun tells me I am at 32 degrees.....
icon_eek.gif

Shoud be at 2 1/2 BTDC?
It is still making a sputter at the exhaust and a bit rough running.
I honestly don't know. New plugs, rotor, cap, wires....etc.
I drove it around anyhow for a while. Took it to a car cruise.
I tried to adjust the dizzy, and it is maxed on the slot. SO no adjusting it that way.
Unless something is just wore out.
For it being out, it sure starts right up fine, cold or hot. And has nice power.
Doesn't run hot or anything either.
I am wondering also, if my harmonic puller moved on that rubber. Just a guess. Or my dizzy is beat out.

Here's the tab I got for it. I imagine it is the right one for 65.

 
That rubber ring has shifted, its only 'on' by old ozone cracked bonded rubber, not the most permanent stuff. I used a piston stop to find TDC and basically threw the timing tab out with the dishwater. It was off by about 1/2 inch. Remark tab, or balancer. Best place to mark it would be the balancer hub, a nice bright white line pointing to the original tab TDC, damn the ring mark!
 
That rubber ring has shifted, its only 'on' by old ozone cracked bonded rubber, not the most permanent stuff. I used a piston stop to find TDC and basically threw the timing tab out with the dishwater. It was off by about 1/2 inch. Remark tab, or balancer. Best place to mark it would be the balancer hub, a nice bright white line pointing to the original tab TDC, damn the ring mark!

Please bare with me. I am sorry. So try and figure out how to find tdc.
Then mark a new white mark on the pulley to where TDC is "now", and then adjust it slightly. I have a dial on my timing light.
Could this be why I cannot get the car to quit sputtering, and running rough?
Once you hit it hard, it does take off, and run pretty well. You mostly notice it while at idle, and reving it up under the hood, and watching the engine.
 
My 69 Dart idled very rough for decades, but was fine at higher rpm. The 4th Holley 1920 carb fixed it. Could also be a vacuum leak. Hard to distinguish a spark problem from a fuel problem.
 
-
Back
Top