Ignition box questions

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volaredon

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These will refer to factory Mopar style 4 and 5 pin ecu's.
I forgot what's the difference between a 4 pin and a 5 pin box
I remember one can be used in place of the other but not the other way around. Which one works for all and why won't the other do likewise?

I'm seeing some Delco replacement ones on feebay, some 4 pin and some 5 pin versions.
I also hear a lot of talk about people using an actual GM HEI module on mopars especially it seems in a lean burn delete situation.
I've read some of the threads over the years about the "advantages" of HEI vs a factory Mopar ECU, would a Delco branded replacement ECU for a Mopar be wired inside like an HEI or like a stick Mopar ECU? I guess it's possible that Delco doesn't actually make them but buys them elsewhere and reboxes them. Does anybody know this to be the case or did Delco actually MAKE the modules they sold, even those they sold that weren't for a GM application

Like everything else these days that isn't made how it was made 30-40 years ago, I've read about modern replacement ignition parts for older application. So I'm looking at some new parts that were actually made back then. And I can tell by the labels these aren't recently made parts though they are brand new.
(I did buy a new but old niehoff 4 pin ecu and a filko brand voltage regulator last week. Brands no longer even heard of... I'm always looking for stuff like that
 
These will refer to factory Mopar style 4 and 5 pin ecu's.
I forgot what's the difference between a 4 pin and a 5 pin box
I remember one can be used in place of the other but not the other way around. Which one works for all and why won't the other do likewise?

I'm seeing some Delco replacement ones on feebay, some 4 pin and some 5 pin versions.
I also hear a lot of talk about people using an actual GM HEI module on mopars especially it seems in a lean burn delete situation.
I've read some of the threads over the years about the "advantages" of HEI vs a factory Mopar ECU, would a Delco branded replacement ECU for a Mopar be wired inside like an HEI or like a stick Mopar ECU? I guess it's possible that Delco doesn't actually make them but buys them elsewhere and reboxes them. Does anybody know this to be the case or did Delco actually MAKE the modules they sold, even those they sold that weren't for a GM application

Like everything else these days that isn't made how it was made 30-40 years ago, I've read about modern replacement ignition parts for older application. So I'm looking at some new parts that were actually made back then. And I can tell by the labels these aren't recently made parts though they are brand new.
(I did buy a new but old niehoff 4 pin ecu and a filko brand voltage regulator last week. Brands no longer even heard of... I'm always looking for stuff like that

A four pin ECU can be used in a five pin ECU system, but a five pin ECU cannot be used in a four pin ECU system.

The original AC Delco replacement ECUs did not employ a GM HEI module inside. Their original ECUs contained circuitry similar to the Chrysler ECU to perform the same function.



For more information about the difference in ECUs and systems, refer to the following:

The Chrysler ECU employs timing and driver circuitry internally to switch a power transistor which “turns on and off” to switch the coil primary on and off, similar to the action of contact points, producing the secondary spark. The electrical current primary ignition path is from the battery through the bulkhead connections, through the ignition switch contacts, through the ballast resistor, through the switching transistor, then to ground. The power transistor mounted on the outside of the ECU case with a heat sink can sink more current than contact points. The Darlington pair power transistor can sink up to 10 amps continuously and up to 15 amp peak spikes. The transistor switching performs the same action as the points of the old system. The dwell time of points that was adjusted by setting the point gap is controlled electronically within the ECU timing circuitry. The ECU mounts solidly to a body ground, both mechanically and electrically, and uses a molded five-pin connector to wire into the vehicle electrical system, ignition coil, and distributor. The distributor points and cam lobes of the old system are replaced by a reluctor wheel and magnetic/inductive pickup. The reluctor wheel has high points which vary the magnetic field strength, or reluctance, in the pickup coil generating the signal to the ECU.

A dual ballast resistor was used with the ECU, which had a five pin connection, for the first several years of production. The primary, or compensating, side of the dual resistor used with the ECU is the same type as the earlier point systems with an open back, ceramic housed, wire wound nominal 0.55 ohm resistor initially, but the value changed to 1.25 ohms later. The resistor still performed the same thermal adjusted coil current/voltage stabilization as with the points system. The resistor also limits the current through the power transistor of the ECU, protecting it, similar to the same action with points.

The other side of the ceramic case dual ballast resistor houses an enclosed "non-thermal" auxiliary resistor which measures 4.75 - 5.75 ohms at 70-80 degrees Fahrenheit. This nominal, five ohm resistor is connected to the "fifth pin" of the ECU. Internal to the ECU, the auxiliary resistor connects to the collector lead of the driver transistor for the main power transistor and part of its biasing. It limits overall current from the 12 volt supply. The other four pins of the ECU connect to the dual lead of the distributor pickup coil, the 12 volt Ignition Run primary power, and the lead to the negative side of the coil for the coil switching action, similar to the connecting lead from the distributor points in the old system.

In 1980, Chrysler revised the five pin ECUs to remove the external auxiliary resistor connected to the fifth pin of the ECU. The external resistor function is included internally in the revised internal circuitry. The two terminal ballast resistor is 1.25 ohms ( 1.12-1.38 ohms ) for the primary circuit to the coil.

A four pin ECU can be used in a five pin ECU system with its four terminal ballast resistor. The five ohm resistor half of the dual ballast resistor is not used, nor is the ECU pin connected internally, even if a "dummy" fifth pin is present. However, an early five pin ECU cannot function in a system with a two terminal ballast because there is no circuit to connect to the "real" fifth pin and power the ECU.



For more information regarding the various production ECUs, refer to the following:

Chrysler’s electronic ignition, which replaced their contact point ignition system, first appeared as a running production change after May 6, 1971 on 1971 models with 340 engine and manual transmission (Ref. Technical Service Bulletins 71-8-8 and D71-8-9), and introduced the four-terminal, dual ballast resistor, part number 3656199 and Electronic Control Unit (ECU), part number 3438850.

In 1972, electronic ignition was extended to the following applications:
  • Standard on 1972 A-bodies, B-bodies, and E-bodies with high performance engines.
  • Standard on 1972 Imperials
  • Standard on 1972 California C-bodies with 360 two barrel, 400 two barrel, and 440 four barrel engines.
  • Optional on 1972 non-California C-bodies with 360 two barrel, 400 two barrel, and 440 four barrel engines.
  • Optional on 1972 Dodge light trucks and compact vans, starting in January 1972.
  • Standard on 1972 motor home 318-3 and 413-1 engines starting in June 1972.
Different versions and part numbers of the ECU were used in 1972 from 1971, including some with an engine speed limiter which was denoted by heat sink color. The non-limited 3438850 has a gold heat sink. The red heat sink unit, part number 3656127 limits RPM to 5000-5200 and was used on 400 and 440 high performance manual transmission applications. The blue heat sink unit, part number 3656128 limits RPM to 5300-5500 and was used on 340 manual transmission applications.

In 1973, electronic ignition became standard on all domestic Chrysler vehicles. The speed limited ECUs were dropped from production. ECU part number 3656900, with gold heat sink and a white paint dot, replaced earlier ECUs as Chrysler improved the circuitry for better cold starting in low temperature conditions. As a running change in 1973 production, a radio noise suppression capacitor was added to the external wiring, connected to the green wire with red tracer.

In early 1974, ECU part number 3755550, with a gold heat sink, which now included the radio noise suppression capacitor internally, was released. Later in 1974, part number 3874020, with added voltage spike protection and a gold heat sink, replaced earlier ECUs. 3874020 was used through 1979.

In later 1975 production, Chrysler adjusted the primary resistance in the dual ballast resistors to 1.25 - 1.5 ohms and also encased the resistor reducing the thermal action as part number 3874767. The effect of current limiting based on engine speed and temperature variation was lessened to a shorter effective range. Although the actual resistance specification changed, much of the literature specification did not.

The 1.5 ohm dual ballast resistor used in 1975-1979 ECU applications should not normally be used in place of the 0.5 ohm dual ballast resistor used in 1971-1975 ECU applications. The later dual ballast resistor will function okay in place of the earlier dual ballast, but depending on the ECU, optimal coil energy will be reduced.

In 1976, Chrysler introduced Electronic Lean Burn (ELB) which replaced the ECU in many applications, although the ECU function was integrated into the ELB Spark Control Computer (SCC) as the internal Ignition Control Module (ICM) in conjunction with the Program Schedule Module. ELB initially used a dual ballast resistor with the five ohm side connected to the SCC and the 0.5 ohm side still connected as ballast resistor for the coil. The conventional ECU with dual ballast resistor continued to be used in non-ELB applications.

In 1979, ELB was revised with digital control in the Program Module and the extreme lean condition of ELB was dropped. The revised SCC was called Electronic Spark Advance (ESA) or Electronic Spark Control (ESC). The conventional ECU with ballast resistor continued to be used in non-ESA/ESC applications. The ECU and ballast resistor was unchanged but the coil, part number 4167126, 4176009, et.al. was revised. The secondary wire connection was changed to an internal male lock terminal.

In 1979 and 1980, the Dodge Omni and Plymouth Horizon cars, used an ECU with the same body mounting pattern, but different connector and heat sink arrangement, part number 5206390. This ECU is not the same as other Chrysler ECUs of this period. It performs a similar switching action, but the Omni and Horizon cars used a Hall effect pickup module in the distributor, so signalling differs. The same ECU was also used in related European Talbot cars. The Talbot part number is 52209060.

In 1980, Chrysler revised the non-ESA/ESC five pin ECUs to remove the external auxiliary resistor connected to the fifth pin of the ECU. The external resistor function is included internally in the revised internal circuitry. This new unit for 1980 is the "four pin" ECU, part number 4111850, which was used through the 1980s. The new two terminal ballast resistor (part number 4106140, 5206436, et.al.) is 1.25 ohms ( 1.12-1.38 ohms ) for the primary circuit to the coil. The new ballast resistor eliminated the metal bracket and had a mount molded into the ceramic housing.


Summary of Chrysler Production ECUs

ECU Part NumberUsagePinsBallast ResistorCoilNotes
34388501971-19725365619924955311971 - 340 manual transmission only. 1972 - non-speed limited. Black case, gold heat sink.
36561271972536561992495531400 & 440 HP manual transmission, engine speed limited. Black case, red heat sink.
36561281972536561992495531340 manual transmission, engine speed limited. Black case, blue heat sink.
36569001973536561992495531Improved cold starting. Black case with white dot, gold heat sink.
37555501974536561992495531Added radio suppression capacitor. Black case, gold heat sink.
38740201974 - 197953656199 to mid 1975, then 38747672495531Added voltage spike protection. Black case, gold heat sink.
41118501980 - 199144106140, 52064364176009Four pins, two terminal external ballast resistor. Black or blue case, gold heat sink.


Chrysler’s performance parts programs, Direct Connection and Mopar Performance, released higher performance and ECUs. These ECUs typically specify a primary ballast resistance from 0.25 ohms to 0.8 ohms depending on the ECU version and the coil. Early ECUs had five pins and required dual ballast resistors, and later ECUs had four pins and used single ballast resistors, following the similar changes in production ECUs. Following is a listing of the Direct Connection/Mopar Performance ECUs:

Summary of Chrysler High Performance ECUs

ECU Part NumberPinsUsageCoilBallast Resistance
3438850R5Modification of production ECU for NASCAR racing up to 7000 RPM, or 8000 RPM with different coil and ballast resistorProduction or similar coil, 1.3-1.8 ohms. Or higher output with a racing coil.0.5-0.7 ohms. Or other resistance to match the coil used.
P36900115First performance parts ECU for Super Stock, etc. Replaced 3438850R.Production or similar coil, 1.3-1.8 ohms to 7000 RPM. Or higher output racing coil to 9500 RPM.0.5-0.7 ohms. Or other resistance to match the coil used.
P36902565High RPM ECU for Super Stock, etc. Replaced P3690011. Blue with gold heat sink.Production or similar coil, 1.3-1.8 ohms to 7000 RPM. Or higher output racing coil to 9500 RPM.0.5-0.7 ohms. Or other resistance to match the coil used. Use Accel 150001 per Accel instructions with 140001 Super Coil.
P3690256A5Revised P3690256.Production or similar coil, 1.3-1.8 ohms to 7000 RPM. Or higher output racing coil to 9500 RPM.0.5-0.7 ohms. Or other resistance to match the coil used. Use Accel 150001 per Accel instructions with 140001 Super Coil.
P3690256B 5Revised P3690256A.Production or similar coil, 1.3-1.8 ohms to 7000 RPM. Or higher output racing coil to 9500 RPM.0.5-0.7 ohms. Or other resistance to match the coil used. Use Accel 150001 per Accel instructions with 140001 Super Coil.
P40072985Released in 1978 to replace P3690256/A/B. Chrome with a blue multi-fin heat sink.Production or similar coil, 1.3-1.8 ohms to 7000 RPM. Or higher output racing coil to 9500 RPM.0.5-0.7 ohms. Or other resistance to match the coil used. Use Accel 150001 per Accel instructions with 140001 Super Coil.
P41205054Released for general high performance and moderate race applications. Orange with blue heat sink.Production or similar coil, 1.3-1.8 ohms to 5500 RPM.0.5-0.7 ohms. Or other resistance to match the coil used. NOTE: later ballast resistor ~1.2 ohms can be used. Use Accel 150001 per Accel instructions with 140001 Super Coil.
P41205344Released in 1980 to replace P40007298. Chrome with black heat sink.Production or similar coil, 1.3-1.8 ohms to 6000 RPM. Or higher output racing coil. 10500 RPM with P3690560 coil.0.5-0.7 ohms. Or other resistance to match the coil used. P2444641 0.25 ohm with P3690560 coil.
P41206004Released in 1981 as a high RPM, racing only unit which can sink more current to drive the coil. Gold with black heat sink.Works with production coil to 5500 RPM, but not recommended. Use P3690560 coil or similar to 10500 RPM.Resistance to match the coil used. 0.5-0.7 ohms with production coil. 0.8 ohms with Accel Super Coil. Use P2444641 0.25 ohm with P3690560 coil.


See the Direct Connection or Mopar Performance manuals for more information about ignition modules and required ballast resistances and coils for details.

 
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would a Delco branded replacement ECU for a Mopar be wired inside like an HEI or like a stick Mopar ECU?
Its a replacement for the Chrysler part.
HEI is a different system, not just a different control unit. For it to work correctly the entire circuit is converted over.
Does it have enough advantages to make it worth your time and money? If you can keep the proper timing curve, maybe yes.

As far as Delco providing genuine OEM GM quality, sadly, no. The retail parts sold by AC Delco and Delco-Remy no longer are OEM quality replacements.

This was bought in 2019 came in a box with the correct GM part number
1763299745996.png


1763300144399.png

I didn't notice the cockeyed output terminal until on the last leg of a 600 mile trip, the ammeter swung over to discharge. A quick check showed the output wire was loose. But the nut was tight. ****. Fortunately there was just enough daylight to make the remaining 85 miles to my house without using headlights.

Junk!
1763300276210.png


and notice the label. Its was done for GM by some other company. Boo.

The original culprit was the insulator.
1763300439981.png

Junk!

This is not the type of out-of- spec that that would occur in modern OEM parts. This sort of BS was addressed in the 1980s with the adoption of statistical quality control throughout the supply chain.

1763300646254.png


I got lucky, and it didn't short the battery and melt the fusible link.
- rant over -
 
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The ones that I was looking at appears to be older stock than your alternator going by packaging...
 
for simplicity ease of wiring and very low cost, in a points car, HEI wins if you have an electronic distributor with a reasonable curve to hand...

this was my position and i have never looked back...

if you have a functioning Mopar setup with good parts... i.e matched and working as per the tables in the post above...id be inclined to leave well alone.

branded hei module
chevy or ford 6 cylinder truck HEI coil
short plug lead for the king lead.
dump the ballast
job done

but if you are wired for mopar and it works..... no need to fix anything
 
I have my 83 d250 that came original with the 4 pin ecu that I have 100% apart, was thinking there might be something "better", also have a 78 fury that needs a lean burn ectomy, I can't remember ever really having a problem with the stock Mopar setup, but I have run the msd 5c when they were available (the factory Mopar ECU plug would directly plug into this msd box, haven't been made in years) and I have played with a couple of Jacobs energy team ignitions before.
Between the Jacobs and the msd I didn't really notice much different when I installed them but more when I would pull them off to put on my next vehicle and went back to stock they would run good but "not quite" as good as they had while I had the "good" setups on them...
Like if there was ever such a slight roughness to the idle stock, that I couldn't adjust out of with the carb, that the "good" setup would take away... Like I said was slight but "just" enough to notice....
I had these aftermarket boxes on an 87 van, and a couple of diplomats, all lean burn conversions, none of them had ever had the stock style Mopar ECU on them. Just went from LB to the aftermarket ones. But all had stock Mopar electronic ignition distributors, usually whatever the first one I came across in the junkyard had to donate to my lean burn removal at the time
 
Well this is how i did mine.

1) buy 2 piggyback spade connectors, this is a female with a male tab sticking out. crimp onto a 2 inch length of wire. plug in as a bypass to the ballast resistor and plug the resistor's orginal wires onto the new male tabs. this means 12 volt feed all the time to the coil. the module will fire a spark at anything from 8 volts to 16 volt supply. but you can easily convert back if need be. BRASS PIGGYBACK SPADE CONNECTORS WIRE PACK OF 10 6.3mm PUSH FIT CRIMP TERMINALS | eBay UK?
2) find an offcut of aluminium unequal angle 1 side wide enough to mount the module 4 holes 2 bolts. and 1 side cut down to a 1/4 inch tab for mounting. mount to fire wall or use a hose clamp around the distributor body to clamp it there. mount module using heat paste and do up the bolts nice and tight, one of the bolts is your modul ground so make sure you new bracket is also grounded.
3) make up a mopar connector to spade female connector to connect distributor to module or cut off mopar connector and convert to spade connectors. get a handful of 4.8mm and 6.3 mm females in case you need to swap wires round. 1 terminal is smaller than the other
4) run a wire from coil + and a wire from coil - to the other end of the module
5) mount your chevy truck coil on a stip of steel or ally that you can then bolt to orginal coil mount
6) use a short plug lead to connect centre of cap to the male stud coil 1976 CHEVROLET G20 4.8L 292cid L6 Ignition Coil | Shop Now at RockAuto

standard motor products DR35 would do a good job
connector below to show which is + and which is - on that coil red wire is + use the lock key to work out orientation

7) try to start, if it doesn't swap the wires from the pickup over
8) if it starts set plug gaps to 45 thou and set timing


ignore the coil in the connection diagram below, you are better off with the chevy one designed for this job and is 1/3rd the cost of the blaster 2

This is a basic set up. you can make it much more professional by finding the posts from slantsixdan which have way more detail about modules and brackets and power supply recommendations....
HEI Electronic Ignition Retrofit How-To - Slant Six Forum


but this will get you going

you can also "protect" your module with either a condenser or a diode or both
not strictly necessary... the only guys who persisted with this was jaguar until the early 1990s
The applicable zener diode costs about $20-$40 but if it saves your module from death twice you have spent your money well.

I ramble on here about it.....
FAIL right out of the package.


Dave



hei_102.jpg


aaa hei_pic.gif


41FimhxXrPL._SX342_SY445_QL70_ML2_.jpg
 
@Vaanth ^^^

That was an awesome explanation to everything.

"A four pin ECU can be used in a five pin ECU system, but a five pin ECU cannot be used in a four pin ECU system."

Thank You for taking the time with your experience for putting this write up together.


☆☆☆☆☆
 
Ok another one
Ive been working on cars for a long time and I've bought a lot of "Standard"/ "blue streak" parts over the years for these cars and trucks.
(All brands not just the ones I've owned)
So up pops a 4 pin LX 101 ignition box on eBay. Bit this one says "standard elextron"... THAT, I've never heard of. There's no "T" on the end of the part number so I don't believe it's the cheapest version.
I bid on that one and won it, and since I'm seeing ads pop up for other standard elextron ignition boxes. Most are wanting a lot more for than what I paid .. though this one was listed as being for a Ford??? No way. Ford never used an ignition box that looked like the Mopar one. Probably why I got it cheap.
Who knows what about the "elextron" designation?
I will say the back isn't melted out like some do but it sure is sticky like fly paper. The enclosed sheet was stuck to it and tore away when I peeled it off.
 
Ok another one
Ive been working on cars for a long time and I've bought a lot of "Standard"/ "blue streak" parts over the years for these cars and trucks.
(All brands not just the ones I've owned)
So up pops a 4 pin LX 101 ignition box on eBay. Bit this one says "standard elextron"... THAT, I've never heard of. There's no "T" on the end of the part number so I don't believe it's the cheapest version.
I bid on that one and won it, and since I'm seeing ads pop up for other standard elextron ignition boxes. Most are wanting a lot more for than what I paid .. though this one was listed as being for a Ford??? No way. Ford never used an ignition box that looked like the Mopar one. Probably why I got it cheap.
Who knows what about the "elextron" designation?
I will say the back isn't melted out like some do but it sure is sticky like fly paper. The enclosed sheet was stuck to it and tore away when I peeled it off.


The Elextron products were an alternately named line from Standard Motor Products. Standard introduced the line in 1977 using the name to highlight the, then relatively new, electronic ignition components. The name faded away in the 1990s.

Standard has, or had, other sub-brand names for different product lines that they acquired or marketed differently, such as Hygrade for fuel system parts and Ektron for wire and cable.

Blue Streak was introduced in 1934 as a premium line of ignition and electrical components. Similarly, but alternately, Standard introduced an economy/separate line of components in 1989 which formally became Tru-Tech in 1995. Tru-Tech evolved into the T-Series of economy parts, which have the "T" suffix on the part number. The "T" number is typically otherwise the same as under the Standard line, for example, LX101 and LX101T.

Initially, Tru-Tech was a less costly, but decent line. Over time, it and its T-Series successor became lesser quality with overseas production. Unfortunately, much of Standard's other products have suffered this same fate.

Elextron parts were good quality though, and largely, or all, made in the USA. The following image is an Elextron LX101 that I have had for a while. It's a spare, but was tested fine when I first got it. It was made in 1983.
PXL_20251125_194503122.jpg
 
Huh. Mine isn't blue.
I remember the "blue streak" parts were the better grade and at least as far as caps and rotors went they usually were blue out of the box
Most of the "elexion" parts I see at least recently on eBay aren't. I do remember when standard's economy line was in green packaging
 
I remember them there was 1 parts store in town that sold them
I just got a filko brand regulator for 70s+ mopars off of eBay the other day
The brand I usually went for first was niehoff
 
I remember them there was 1 parts store in town that sold them
I just got a filko brand regulator for 70s+ mopars off of eBay the other day
The brand I usually went for first was niehoff
That's a good one too.
 
I sold Filko at the parts store back in the 70's. They are top notch but near impossible to find. I got one from @halifaxhops. He tests every one he sells.

View attachment 1716482465

View attachment 1716482466

Filko made excellent parts. Sadly, like many companies, they are gone. They were finally swallowed up, like others, by Standard Motor Products.

I have several parts from Filko myself. The following image shows a few from stock:
Filko_parts.jpg

The two DS-15HD dimmer switches were government surplus.

I only have one Filko ECU, but I have other brands, including Chrysler. Most old American name brands were good in the past. The following image shows many of my shelf stock, including aftermarket and original, new and used.
ECUs2.jpg

Brands include the following (not all in boxes):

Ampco (later Wells) CR100
Atlas 900
Autotron C-500
Auto Tune PT315
Big A TP50
Borg Warner CBE-14
Echlin TP51
Elextron (Standard Motor Products) LX101
E-tron A411
Filko CH-300
Kem E106
Motorcraft DYC-162
Motorola 6-60
Niehoff AL401
Sorensen CE24 (Pulsemaker)
Standard Motor Products LX101
Wells CR100 and CR109

Chrysler 3656900, 3755550, 3874020, 4111850, P3690256, P4120505, P4120534

All of my cars and trucks have original Chrysler ECUs or Direct Connection/Mopar Performance ECUs.


 
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