Ignition control module

[Moparman485]

Afternoon guys and gals! Hope all is swell.

1973 dodge dart custom with pepper up 360, 904, and soon to be 8.25 rear.

I am in the process of bringing my old Hal back to life and my ignition control module has melted all do the goop out and is heavily corroded, so needs replaced.

Currently it has/had a 4 prong ballast resistor, factory distributor, MSD blaster II coil, and the mopar 4 pin ignition control module.

Since I am replacing it, I wanted to reach out and see which ICM/coil/ballast yall found to be the best bet.

I am open to aftermarket and can rewire if need be, but not wanting to reinvent the wheel if there’s no benefit.

So what have yall found to perform well? Car is mostly street use but will certainly be “pushed” at times for lead foot pleasure

Thanks in advance for the expertise! Links or part numbers would be greatly appreciated!

 

[RustyRatRod]

@halifaxhops can help you.

 

[memike]

Yep, @halifaxhops

 

[Professor Fate]

@halifaxhops is the acknowledged "man" for this, but I'll throw in my two cents:
Leave your wiring just as it is, if it is in good shape and functioning well.
Keeping the 4 prong ballast will enable you to run either the 4 or 5 pin control module, so you can throw your current one into the "spares" box in case you ever need it to get home.
People seem to really like the HiRev 7500 box, although I haven't run one long enough to give a long-term recommendation.
Most important thing is to get the advance curve dialed in on your distributor- that will make the biggest difference of all.

 

[TT5.9mag]

My personal preference on a street car is to ditch the ballast resistor, stock coil, and stock ignition box. Build an aluminum mount on the stock distributor and trigger an HEI unit. It’s easy, simple, gets rid of some problematic parts and wiring and they last a good long while. Plus the engines seem to like em. On more serious stuff I use MSD stuff exclusively. It always works for me.

 

[Kendog 170]

Here's some HEI info.
Set timing, hei mod

 

[AJ/FormS]

In my experience, those ECUs work just fine with that goop boiled out.

 

[toolmanmike]

Afternoon guys and gals! Hope all is swell.

1973 dodge dart custom with pepper up 360, 904, and soon to be 8.25 rear.

I am in the process of bringing my old Hal back to life and my ignition control module has melted all do the goop out and is heavily corroded, so needs replaced.

Currently it has/had a 4 prong ballast resistor, factory distributor, MSD blaster II coil, and the mopar 4 pin ignition control module.

Since I am replacing it, I wanted to reach out and see which ICM/coil/ballast yall found to be the best bet.

I am open to aftermarket and can rewire if need be, but not wanting to reinvent the wheel if there’s no benefit.

So what have yall found to perform well? Car is mostly street use but will certainly be “pushed” at times for lead foot pleasure

Thanks in advance for the expertise! Links or part numbers would be greatly appreciated!

I would buy a good ECU from Hoppy and leave the system alone. If it were an older points distributor, I would install a Pertronix unit. The GM HEI conversions work well if you are capable of modifying your system. They operate off of battery voltage (like the Pertronix) and don't require a ballast resistor. They do require a slight bit of rewiring.

 

[Vaanth]

Afternoon guys and gals! Hope all is swell.

1973 dodge dart custom with pepper up 360, 904, and soon to be 8.25 rear.

I am in the process of bringing my old Hal back to life and my ignition control module has melted all do the goop out and is heavily corroded, so needs replaced.

Currently it has/had a 4 prong ballast resistor, factory distributor, MSD blaster II coil, and the mopar 4 pin ignition control module.

Since I am replacing it, I wanted to reach out and see which ICM/coil/ballast yall found to be the best bet.

I am open to aftermarket and can rewire if need be, but not wanting to reinvent the wheel if there’s no benefit.

So what have yall found to perform well? Car is mostly street use but will certainly be “pushed” at times for lead foot pleasure

Thanks in advance for the expertise! Links or part numbers would be greatly appreciated!

My preferences are for stock, or near stock type, original or select aftermarket parts, made in the USA, over 25 years ago. I don't use currently or recently produced ignition parts, made overseas, even from older named companies. I seek out NOS parts. If your preferences lean the same way, the following might have some useful information.

Although I have had few original or good aftermarket electronic control units (ECUs) really fail over the last 50 years, my preferred ECU, if needed, is one of these from my collection in the following image:

I've collected these as new purchases for spares years ago, more recent NOS purchases, as removed from parts cars, or some pulled from junk cars in a junkyard back when they were more common to be found. They have all been tested. Some had leaking potting which has been, or will be, corrected.

My preferred original ECU to use is Chrysler part number 4111850 for a four pin unit, or part number 3874020 for a five pin unit. For higher performance, the preferred ECUs are Chrysler part numbers P4120505 in general, P4007298 in some cases, or P4120534 in a couple of cases.

For a single, or two terminal, ballast resistor, I generally prefer Chrysler part number 2095501 for 0.5Ω use, or in some cases, number 4106340 for 1.25Ω use.

For a dual, or four terminal, ballast resistor, I generally prefer Chrysler part number 3656199 (Mopar number CH455) for for 5.0/0.5Ω use, or in some cases, number 3874767 (Mopar number CH456) for 5.0/1.25Ω use.

For coils, I run stock type coils in the 1.3Ω to 1.7Ω range such as Chrysler part number 2495531 (Mopar number CH412), or similar.

For aftermarket ECUs, I will use the following:
AC Delco:
- C1900 (5-pin)
- C1900B (5-pin)
- C1900Z (5-pin)
- C1908 (4-pin)
- C1908B (4-pin)

Atlas
- 900 (5-pin)
- 901 (4-pin)

Auto Tune
- E310/E315 (4-pin)
- PT315 (4-pin)

Borg Warner
- CE-1 (4-pin)
- CBE5 (5-pin)
- CBE5P (5-pin)
- CBE14 (4-pin)
- CBE14P (4-pin)

Echlin/NAPA
- TP50 (5-pin)
- TP51 (4-pin)

E-Tron
- A411 (4-pin)
- A850 (5-pin)
- CEB (5-pin)

Filko
- CH-300 (5-pin)
- CH-300X (5-pin)
- CH-301 (4-pin)

GP Sorensen
- EL101 (5-pin)
- EL110 (4-pin)

Guaranteed Parts (GP)
- EL101 (5-pin)
- EL110 (4-pin)

Kem, KemParts
- E100 (5-pin)
- E106 (4-pin)
- E106X (4-pin)
- IM-100 (4-pin)

Mighty
- 2-3000 (5-pin)
- 2-3000A (4-pin)

Motorcraft
- DYC-162 (5-pin)

Motorola
- 6-60 (5-pin)

Niehoff
- AL401 (5-pin)
- AL403 (4-pin)
- AL403CS (4-pin)

P&D
- C-1 (5-pin)

Sierra Marine
- CR109 (4-pin)

Sierra Supply
- 18-5105 (5 pin)

Sorensen
- CE24 (Pulsemaker) (4-pin)

SOSMetal
- 122101 (4-pin)

Standard Motor Products, Elextron
- LX100 (5-pin)
- LX101 (4-pin)

Switches (Kidde, Federal Mogul)
- 400020 (5-pin)
- 400040 (4-pin)

Valley Forge
- ES1 (4-pin)

Wells
- CR100 (5-pin)
- CR1100 (5-pin)
- CR109 (4-pin)
- CR1109 (4-pin)
- CR114 (4-pin)

White Motor Company
- 31-2759157 (5-pin)

NOTE: Some aftermarket replacement four pin ECUs might have a "dummy" fifth pin.

For aftermarket single, or two terminal, ballast resistors, I'll consider the following:
- 0.5Ω:

• Atlas 550
• Standard RU-11
• Wells CR-107 or AL795
• Filko AR17
• Kem FR56
• Echlin ICR 12
• Niehoff AL125A
• Valley Forge RU61
• Borg Warner RU19
• Sorensen CH-152

- 1.25Ω:

• Kem FR56 *
• Wells CR-107 *
• Standard RU-11 *
• Niehoff AL125C
• Filko CH401

* NOTE: Aftermarket resistors, and in some cases, original Chrysler replacement resistors, might substitute later parts with different resistance values for earlier parts or re-use the earlier part numbers.

For aftermarket dual, or four terminal, ballast resistors, I'll consider the following:
- 5.0/0.5Ω:

• Atlas 551
• Wells CR-105/CR1105
• Standard RU-12
• Big A 30-351
• Delco Remy C1102/1972459
• Filko CH400
• Borg Warner RUE-1
• Niehoff Al125B
• Kem FR57

- 5.0/1.25Ω:

• Standard RU-12 *
• Niehoff AL125BCM, AL125B *
• Echlin ICR 24
• GP EL-401
• Accel 150351
• Filko CH400
• Kem FR57 *

For aftermarket coils I might use the following:
- Standard Motor Products UC-12X
- Atlas 502
- Kem U12A
- Filko UC-103 or UC-104HS
- Sorensen SC-19
- Niehoff AL-179
- Accel 8140 (1.4Ω) "Super Stock" coil, repainted black, although Accel specifies it as "for points ignition". Their coil for electronic breakerless ignition has too high of internal resistance.

For aftermarket epoxy coils I will use the following:
- Sorensen Magnitron SC-29X
- Borg Warner E-82
- Kem 312A
- Filko EP-2

There might be a few other aftermarket brands and numbers that I consider which I neglected to include here.

 

[George Jets]

☆☆☆☆☆

 

[TT5.9mag]

View attachment 1716440807

View attachment 1716440808

View attachment 1716440812


☆☆☆☆☆

The spark plug photo means nothing. You can tune points, mags, electronics, ANY ignition system to color the plug correctly.

 

[barbee6043]

In my experience, those ECUs work just fine with that goop boiled out.

I bought a 79 Volare a couple years ago, and it ran great, the ECU had ALL its goop long ago melted away. Looked lie the original ECU too. I ran it a year before I said, ah heck, "I will change it out>" Why??? Guess I am just anal sometimes for no good reason!

 

[RustyRatRod]

View attachment 1716440807

View attachment 1716440808

View attachment 1716440812


☆☆☆☆☆

Simple enough!

 

[Vaanth]

I am in the process of bringing my old Hal back to life and my ignition control module has melted all do the goop out and is heavily corroded, so needs replaced.

ECUs that have leaked usually still work and can work this way for years. However, exposure of the internal components can lead to corrosion and possible component failure. The leaking ECUs can be cleaned up and re-potted.

Chrysler used semi-solid potting compounds in the electronic control units (ECUs), electronic voltage regulators, air conditioning high speed cutout controllers, EGR timers, and other similar electronic modules. In some ECUs and voltage regulators, sand was added to the compound as an additional stiffener for mechanical shock and vibration resistance.

1970s assemblies are more susceptible to the oozing than later production parts. Later production was changed to a more rubber-like or silicone-like compound that breaks down less. In general, the parts can continue to function with the compound leaking out unless affected by moisture or other factors. Aftermarket components can also suffer from similar breakdown depending on the nature of their compound.

When the early compound used by Chrysler oozes it forms a sticky mess. It can be dissolved with lacquer thinner, but it's tricky to remove from painted surfaces without risking the paint. I've successfully removed it with lacquer thinner from vehicles as well as ECUs and voltage regulators, including the internal areas. Removal from the internal areas does risk removing electronic component markings and weakening the components, especially the electrolytic capacitors. I have replaced the removed potting compound with two part (A-B) electronics potting compound.

The ECUs can be cleaned and stripped and still work if they worked before, but the process can be tedious and tricky, and component damage is a strong possibility, especially if dealing with potting removal. Components can be replaced to an extent.

After removing the compound, if the case needs refinishing, I partially clean it with wire brushing and hand brushing of the case only. If heavier stripping is needed, prior to brushing it, I mask the connector and transistor/heatsink, plus cover the back, and carefully bead blast it. The heatsink is anodized aluminum and can be buffed clean if the anodizing is still intact and the aluminum is not corroding. If it is corroding, heavier brushing might be used, but care should be exercised around the insulating pad. The transistor case is nickel plated steel and its can be lightly hand brushed, but any remnants of marking will be gone, and due to its shape, full cleaning of corrosion will be tricky.

The following image shows a case that was rusted in the process of being cleaned. The rust removal so for has been with a wire brush by machine:

Evaporust can be used in areas that can't be reached with brushing or to get into pits. Some light chemical etching of the external part of case with phosphoric acid is possible. Don't use the phosphoric acid on the heatsink or transistor. The connector pins can be cleaned with a contact cleaner such as CRC or DeOxit brands. Lacquer thinner can be used for some clean up, especially for any potting on the outside.

The following image shows some ECUs that I have removed the potting and will be re-potted when any component repair, further case work, and painting is complete:

The cases can be repainted after cleanup and new labels are available if desired. The following image shows a couple I have repainted, a P4120505 and an aftermarket version of 4111850. The paint is not the exact color, or sheen, but it's close enough for my use:

When repainting, don't paint the heatsink, transistor, or connector. I have used a light coat of VHT high temperature clear on the transistor cap to preserve the marking.

All units are tested before, during and after the process with a C-4166-A, or more on the lab bench for testing or repair as needed. Real testing is done by running the ECU on a vehicle. I use my 1974 D200 with a 440 and its original ignition wiring with a four terminal dual ballast resistor for functional tests and stress testing of my ECUs.

 

[Moparman485]

My preferences are for stock, or near stock type, original or select aftermarket parts, made in the USA, over 25 years ago. I don't use currently or recently produced ignition parts, made overseas, even from older named companies. I seek out NOS parts. If your preferences lean the same way, the following might have some useful information.

Although I have had few original or good aftermarket electronic control units (ECUs) really fail over the last 50 years, my preferred ECU, if needed, is one of these from my collection in the following image:
View attachment 1716440789
I've collected these as new purchases for spares years ago, more recent NOS purchases, as removed from parts cars, or some pulled from junk cars in a junkyard back when they were more common to be found. They have all been tested. Some had leaking potting which has been, or will be, corrected.

My preferred original ECU to use is Chrysler part number 4111850 for a four pin unit, or part number 3874020 for a five pin unit. For higher performance, the preferred ECUs are Chrysler part numbers P4120505 in general, P4007298 in some cases, or P4120534 in a couple of cases.

For a single, or two terminal, ballast resistor, I generally prefer Chrysler part number 2095501 for 0.5Ω use, or in some cases, number 4106340 for 1.25Ω use.

For a dual, or four terminal, ballast resistor, I generally prefer Chrysler part number 3656199 (Mopar number CH455) for for 5.0/0.5Ω use, or in some cases, number 3874767 (Mopar number CH456) for 5.0/1.25Ω use.

For coils, I run stock type coils in the 1.3Ω to 1.7Ω range such as Chrysler part number 2495531 (Mopar number CH412),or similar.

For aftermarket ECUs, I will use the following:
AC Delco:
- C1900 (5-pin)
- C1900B (5-pin)
- C1900Z (5-pin)
- C1908 (4-pin)
- C1908B (4-pin)

Atlas
- 900 (5-pin)
- 901 (4-pin)

Auto Tune
- E310/E315 (4-pin)
- PT315 (4-pin)

Borg Warner
- CE-1 (4-pin)
- CBE5 (5-pin)
- CBE5P (5-pin)
- CBE14 (4-pin)
- CBE14P (4-pin)

Echlin/NAPA
- TP50 (5-pin)
- TP51 (4-pin)

E-Tron
- A411 (4-pin)
- A850 (5-pin)
- CEB (5-pin)

Filko
- CH-300 (5-pin)
- CH-300X (5-pin)
- CH-301 (4-pin)

GP Sorensen
- EL101 (5-pin)
- EL110 (4-pin)

Guaranteed Parts (GP)
- EL101 (5-pin)
- EL110 (4-pin)

Kem, KemParts
- E100 (5-pin)
- E106 (4-pin)
- E106X (4-pin)
- IM-100 (4-pin)

Mighty
- 2-3000 (5-pin)
- 2-3000A (4-pin)

Motorcraft
- DYC-162 (5-pin)

Motorola
- 6-60 (5-pin)

Niehoff
- AL401 (5-pin)
- AL403 (4-pin)
- AL403CS (4-pin)

P&D
- C-1 (5-pin)

Sierra Marine
- CR109 (4-pin)

Sierra Supply
- 18-5105 (5 pin)

Sorensen
- CE24 (Pulsemaker) (4-pin)

SOSMetal
- 122101 (4-pin)

Standard Motor Products, Elextron
- LX100 (5-pin)
- LX101 (4-pin)

Switches (Kidde, Federal Mogul)
- 400020 (5-pin)
- 400040 (4-pin)

Valley Forge
- ES1 (4-pin)

Wells
- CR100 (5-pin)
- CR1100 (5-pin)
- CR109 (4-pin)
- CR1109 (4-pin)
- CR114 (4-pin)

White Motor Company
- 31-2759157 (5-pin)

NOTE: Some aftermarket replacement four pin ECUs might have a "dummy" fifth pin.

For aftermarket single, or two terminal, ballast resistors, I'll consider the following:

- 0.5Ω:

• Atlas 550
• Standard RU-11
• Wells CR-107 or AL795
• Filko AR17
• Kem FR56
• Echlin ICR 12
• Niehoff AL125A
• Valley Forge RU61
• Borg Warner RU19
• Sorensen CH-152

- 1.25Ω:

• Kem FR56 *
• Wells CR-107 *
• Standard RU-11 *
• Niehoff AL125C
• Filko CH401

* NOTE: Aftermarket resistors, and in some cases, original Chrysler replacement resistors, might substitute later parts with different resistance values for earlier parts or re-use the earlier part numbers.

For aftermarket dual, or four terminal, ballast resistors, I'll consider the following:

- 5.0/0.5Ω:

• Atlas 551
• Wells CR-105/CR1105
• Standard RU-12
• Big A 30-351
• WVE 6R1008
• Airtex 6R1008
• Delco Remy C1102/1972459
• Filko CH400
• Borg Warner RUE-1
• Niehoff Al125B
• Kem FR57

- 5.0/1.25Ω:

• Standard RU-12 *
• Niehoff AL125BCM, AL125B *
• Echlin ICR 24
• GP EL-401
• Accel 150351
• Filko CH400
• Kem FR57 *

For aftermarket coils I might use the following:

- Standard Motor Products UC-12X
- Atlas 502
- Kem U12A
- Filko UC-103 or UC-104HS
- Sorensen SC-19
- Niehoff AL-179
- Accel 8140 (1.4Ω) "Super Stock" coil, repainted black, although Accel specifies it as "for points ignition". Their coil for electronic breakerless ignition has too high of internal resistance.

For aftermarket epoxy coils I will use the following:
- Sorensen Magnitron SC-29X
- Borg Warner E-82
- Kem 312A
- Filko EP-2

There might be a few other aftermarket brands and numbers that I consider which I neglected to include here.

Man, this is extremely helpful. Thank you!

Ok, so to boil it down to “dumb guy terms” if I replace my existing ballast resistor (4 prong) with a new/nos 4 prong, am I able to use 4 and 5 terminal units? Or can I only use 4 prong units with the 5 terminal, and 2 prong units with the 4 terminal? I found another thread on here that seemed to have a consensus that’s 4 prong can work with either 4/5 terminal, but that a 2 prong would not work with the 5 prong?

Sorry if I sound dumb, just trying to make sure I don’t locate one and order the wrong one. Etc. I noticed the “oem replacement” for my car at both Oreilly’s and Autozone are 4 terminal icms (not that I’ll get them there, just that I saw that was the offering)

 

[Vaanth]

Man, this is extremely helpful. Thank you!

Ok, so to boil it down to “dumb guy terms” if I replace my existing ballast resistor (4 prong) with a new/nos 4 prong, am I able to use 4 and 5 terminal units? Or can I only use 4 prong units with the 5 terminal, and 2 prong units with the 4 terminal? I found another thread on here that seemed to have a consensus that’s 4 prong can work with either 4/5 terminal, but that a 2 prong would not work with the 5 prong?

Sorry if I sound dumb, just trying to make sure I don’t locate one and order the wrong one. Etc. I noticed the “oem replacement” for my car at both Oreilly’s and Autozone are 4 terminal icms (not that I’ll get them there, just that I saw that was the offering)

If you replace your existing ballast resistor (4 prong) with a new/nos 4 prong, then yes, you can use either 4 or 5 terminal units (ECUs). 4 terminal units (ECUs) can directly replace a 5 terminal units (ECU) but not the other way around. 5 terminal units (ECUs) can only use a 4 prong ballast resistor. 4 terminal units (ECUs) can use either 2 or 4 prong resistors.

Any ECU made nowadays is a 4-pin unit, even if it has 5-pins. In that case the fifth pin is a "dummy" pin for looks.

If your existing ballast resistor works, there is no functional reason to replace it.

 

[Moparman485]

If you replace your existing ballast resistor (4 prong) with a new/nos 4 prong, then yes, you can use either 4 or 5 terminal units (ECUs). 4 terminal units (ECUs) can directly replace a 5 terminal units (ECU) but not the other way around. 5 terminal units (ECUs) can only use a 4 prong ballast resistor. 4 terminal units (ECUs) can use either 2 or 4 prong resistors.

Any ECU made nowadays is a 4-pin unit, even if it has 5-pins. In that case the fifth pin is a "dummy" pin for looks.

If your existing ballast resistor works, there is no functional reason to replace it.

Perfect. Thank you!

Mine has a very large crack/split that has it barely staying in one piece. So I figured I would replace it now to eliminate all possible issues when I try to get it back on the road after the other repairs.

 

[halifaxhops]

Biggest thing is to make sure all the componets are matched also. Thats one of the reasons they overheat and fail. I have a thread on the ecu;s I have now if needed.

 

[bee1971]

Damn

Mopar Ignition Module Scientists

 

[Bewy]

Use the HEI module. It has several benefits over the Chrys Elec ign:
- variable dwell [ coil runs cooler & more spark energy at high rpms ]
- more spark energy, allows 0.060" plug gaps, with an E core coil &....
- bal res is deleted when used with an E core coil
- simple hook up, less connection points means less failure points [ points? pardon the pun....]

 

[barbee6043]

Use the HEI module. It has several benefits over the Chrys Elec ign:
- variable dwell [ coil runs cooler & more spark energy at high rpms ]
- more spark energy, allows 0.060" plug gaps, with an E core coil &....
- bal res is deleted when used with an E core coil
- simple hook up, less connection points means less failure points [ points? pardon the pun....]

I am so anal I would do the HEI thing and keep a "fake" ballast!!!

 

[MadScientistMat]

If you decide to replace the old module, I would be interested in examining it and would be glad to cover shipping. Pm me if you're interested.

 

[Kendog 170]

In my experience, those ECUs work just fine with that goop boiled out.

I have one like that in my trunk in a ziplock just in case I breakdown. (Still works)

The following image shows some ECUs that I have removed the potting

How may I ask do you do that. I want to hide an HEI in one so if it goes I'll have easy access to change it.

 

[Vaanth]

I have one like that in my trunk in a ziplock just in case I breakdown. (Still works)

How may I ask do you do that. I want to hide an HEI in one so if it goes I'll have easy access to change it.

Removing the potting is tedious and tricky, especially if trying to not damage the internal components and circuit board(s). If the unit is already leaking heavily, that's a head start. I use various mechanical means to break away some of the potting if possible to start. I follow this with application of lacquer thinner. The thinner will dissolve the potting in most cases. If I have leftover dirty thinner from cleaning paint guns, I start with that. In some cases, I will submerge the unit and let it soak. The thinner will eventually dissolve all of the potting, creating a runny, gooey mess. So, there are multiple cleaner thinner rinses and manual cleaning to remove it. I also use brake cleaner for spot cleaning.

If there is no concern about the components, like with your planned use, just submerge the unit in lacquer thinner and let it sit for a couple of days. It may take a few iterations of soaking and digging to get it cleaned out, but you are not concerned about the components, so digging is less tedious.

Chrysler's potting from the 70s is the worst for leaking, and often has entrained sand, so it's a sandy mess in addition to the sticky mess. The later units do not really leak the potting because it is an improved composition, typically without the sand. It's easier to clean out too. Most aftermarket units from the 80s and later are similar. Some are a softer compound, but I have encountered some that seemed harder. Some of the early units from a couple of brands may also have sand.

The lacquer thinner will strip the paint on the few aftermarket units I have done, but it does not really bother the Chrysler units I have done. It seems the black paint may soften some, but a blue unit, and early P4120505 orange units were not fazed. It will remove all markings though, including those on the transistor in many cases. The thinner will not bother the connector or heatsink, but it may weaken the exposed part of the heatsink insulating pad.

If the components are of concern, the lacquer thinner soak can damage them, depending on the amount of exposure. The semiconductors typically will not be affected. The wire wound resistor seems unaffected but the varnish or enamel used on those might weaken. The smaller resistors may lose their markings. The mica capacitors can soften if exposed long enough, and the electrolytic capacitors can start to physically break down depending on the type of construction used. The fiberglass circuit board can become saturated but will dry out.

My work with these ECUs in stripping, cleaning, and repair is still a project in progress.