Ignition to starter

[scarlette1969]

Hey guys I'm working on a 69 dart /6. I've been going through the wiring system and trying to correct a bunch of wiring problems the previous owner hacked up. Nothing major just getting lights hooked back up and it went great.

My problem is my starter went out... or so i thought. It started to give a great big thump thump thump coming from the starter. I thought the solenoid was bad but then realised my voltage was low when I turned the key. So I jumped it and it would start up real quick but with a thump sound start.

I replaced the starter and still have low voltage coming in to the dash and radio. Battery is good too. So I thought I'll hot wire the car by just crossing the two wires to the starter. It worked and sounded exactly how it should.

My question is would a loose connection in the wiring at the ignition in the dash do that or what? It tries just cant do it from the key.

Thanks for the help!!!

 

[67Dart273]

Switch, connectors. You simply have to go through it as a system and check things out

First read this:

Not only has a lot of guys done away with the ammeter, this article gives you insight into the basics of how power is distributed in these old girls

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

and while you're at it........

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/brighter-headlights.shtml

In the case of ignition run voltage, generally the circuit path goes like this:

Battery,--- starter relay (junction)---fuse link---bulkhead connector---ammeter---through the ammeter---factory "in harness" splice---branch off to fuse panel, light switch, and ignition switch connector

From the ignition switch connector --- through the switch---back out the switch on the "ignition run" (IGN 1) blue wire, ----back through the bulkhead---and to the "ignition run" loads under the hood

On a '69, this was pretty simple---ballast resistor and regulator

To get some idea of how good or bad this is,

Turn the key to "run" with engine not running. Make sure ignition points (if you have them) are closed. To do that, put your voltmeter on the coil NEG lead (the one going to distributor)--- and bump the engine until the voltage goes low.

Now put one probe of your meter onto the battery POS post, and probe the "high" side of the ignition resistor. If unsure, you are looking for the lowest voltage reading on the meter.

What you would LIKE to see is very very low voltage, no more than .3 v. (Three tenths of one volt.)

To put this another way, with the key "in run" as above,

First measure the battery voltage right at the battery posts

Then measure from engine block to the "key" side of the ballast resistor, and subtract the two readings. As above, the difference should be no more than .3v and in no case over 1/2 volt.

 

[scarlette1969]

Well i just figured it out. I pulled the connector off the ignition switch and directly jumped the connections and it sounded like its supposed to. Its the ignition switch not making a good connection. Thanks for the information though good things to know!