Increasing steering effort by cutting spring

[Tool.Man]

I have a .94 power steering pump. The steering is too light so I want to increase the effort needed to turn. Can anyone say from experience what a good length is?

 

[niceolddart]

I've used copper washers from disc brake line to calipers to make mine firmer, but this can only be done on Saginaw P/S pumps. I have never heard of cutting the spring down, certainly not on a Saginaw pump.

 

[Tool.Man]

I have never heard of cutting the spring down, certainly not on a Saginaw

Thanks for replying.

You very well are correct. In another lifetime I remember “shimming” was the fix for light steering. Usually in hydraulics you would increase spring load to delay bypass. I guess I can add shims and if it doesn’t work, cut off the spring but I’m guessing you’re right. How much thickness would be a good starting point?

 

[AJ/FormS]

In the Mopar system, the correct way to dial in the steering effort is to take the steering gear apart and increase the reaction spring pressure with more of them, or thicker ones. I bought my spring-kit right from the Mopar Dealer over twenty years ago. It took me three tries to get it puuurfect.
But part of the reason for that is ;
that my steering wheel is just a tiny Grant Foam-ringed one, perhaps 13 inches in diameter, and
the other part is that I run 235/60-14s up front at 28/29psi.
and another part is that I have a close ratio 4-speed so, one hand is almost always on the Shifter.
And yes, I run TTI Headers.
You might think that three times is a lot of work, and you'd be right. But I had the strength, the tools, the knowledge, and the willingness to see the project thru; and most of all, 22 years ago, I was only 50, lol.
After the box is on the bench, swapping in springs is easy enough.
>> If you want instant results, call Firm-Feel.

BTW
IMO, the Saginaw pump is better suited to performance steering. Mine keeps up pretty good, whereas two Thompson/Federals could not. I don't do organized Autocross, but I do drive the crap outta my car on any surface, and with my new for 2004, skid plate, I occasionally jump it too. My 68 Barracuda is at a lil less than 53% front weight bias, so it flies short hops half-decent.

 

[niceolddart]

Thanks for replying.

You very well are correct. In another lifetime I remember “shimming” was the fix for light steering. Usually in hydraulics you would increase spring load to delay bypass. I guess I can add shims and if it doesn’t work, cut off the spring but I’m guessing you’re right. How much thickness would be a good starting point?

Like AJ/FormS said, it's a trial thing. It takes some time to get it where you like & depends on some things like steering wheel diameter, (mine was the stock plain Jane Duster one) & tire size. I had the room & did this mod right on the car but again, again, it takes time to do. Draining the P/S fluid, removing the hose end, removing the valve & carefully disassembling it etc. It takes time but, I got lucky by adding just 1 shim, I used the copper crush washers that go between the brake hose & caliper on disc brake cars (I think most older American cars are pretty much the same O.D. but thickness may vary a bit. I had them laying around & fit perfectly. I got this trick from Mopar Action (Now recently de-funked) years ago. There may still be an article on the web about how to do this. It was called "Pump it Down".

 

[junkyardhero]

or... you could just press the easy button:

Shim Kit - Saginaw Power Steering Pump - Bergman Auto Craft

Pressure relief Shim Kit - Saginaw Power Steering Pump for power steering pumps. As seen in the "Pumping It Down" article in Mopar Action

bergmanautocraft.com

here is a related article

Pump It Down....EASY

While I'm waiting for some parts to get my engine back in, it was the perfect opportunity to do the "Pump It Down " modification to my power steering pump. Already off the engine made it easier but still easy while in the car. In the vise Valve assembly out... Stem disassembled...

www.forabodiesonly.com