Intake Choice???????

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I said why, in my last post IMO the AG is just about the same as the non AG you even proved it by stating the diff. of, "5-7 hp" and, "nearly Identical". Armed with this info, and I thank everyone for their input and, suggestions, as well as opinion's I'm going with the Holley SD.

yes, i answered your question but you disagreed with my post yet gave no reason for disagreeing.
 
Don't poo-poo that airgap design. It must be impossible to get vapor lock with that design.lol, or at least nearly so. The under-hood temp on my car must be close to a million degrees, what with aluminum heads, un-coated TTIs and running a minimum coolant temp of 205*F.My 750DP runs as stable as can be and never boils the gas away on the hottest of days.That is value over and above,pulling to past 7000 from an idle stomp with Zero stall(stick-car).lol
You would almost have to pry that thing out of my cold dead hands.
 
Don't poo-poo that airgap design. It must be impossible to get vapor lock with that design.lol, or at least nearly so. The under-hood temp on my car must be close to a million degrees, what with aluminum heads, un-coated TTIs and running a minimum coolant temp of 205*F.My 750DP runs as stable as can be and never boils the gas away on the hottest of days.That is value over and above,pulling to past 7000 from an idle stomp with Zero stall(stick-car).lol
You would almost have to pry that thing out of my cold dead hands.
I feel you on that. I'm just not feeling the AG. I'm not poo-pooing it, if I did forgive me. I'm not wadsworth or mark twain : ) I just try my best to convey what I think and sometimes it comes out wrong. I got kicked out of H.S. for not going to class. I was in 12th grade and needed like 40 more credits to graduate. I did get my GED the next month. This just tells ya who ya talking with. giggle! I got question what gear box are you using in your ride?
 
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yes, i answered your question but you disagreed with my post yet gave no reason for disagreeing.
What more do you want? Do you want to debate about something? I just disagree with the fact that the rpm and, AG are different animals. Like I'm comparing apples and oranges and, I don't think I am. I believe that the only difference between the 2 is the air gap itself. If it wasn't for that they would be identical manifolds. Is this what you wanted? I mean, I don't understand what your looking for in an answer. I plain and, simple disagree with what you said, that's it nothing more, nothing less.
 
What more do you want? Do you want to debate about something? I just disagree with the fact that the rpm and, AG are different animals. Like I'm comparing apples and oranges and, I don't think I am. I believe that the only difference between the 2 is the air gap itself. If it wasn't for that they would be identical manifolds. Is this what you wanted? I mean, I don't understand what your looking for in an answer. I plain and, simple disagree with what you said, that's it nothing more, nothing less.

well they are not identical like i stated but there is not a huge difference between them like i also stated, so you disagreed and you were incorrect to disagree based on what you are saying now . i simply gave you the FACTS and you can do what you want with them but to argue or debate facts is pointless.
 
They all have 8 runners and a plenum, so in that sense they are all the same. The RnD that goes in to them can make them perform light years apart. For a streeter,as long as a manifold is in the ballpark, fugedabowdit. For a streeter the engine is gonna spend most of it's life sub 4000rpm. Obviously then, it should work best in that zone. If the engine has a hi-stall behind it, then that picks up the bottom. So now you need a manifold that works from around 2000 to 4000; no big deal,almost any manifold works there. But if you need to fill out either end, that's where the RnD starts to pay off.And that is where the AG really shines.
My specs are under my Avatar.
 
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They all have 8 runners and a plenum, so in that sense they are all the same. The RnD that goes in to them can make them perform light years apart. For a streeter,as long as a manifold is in the ballpark, fugedabowdit. For a streeter the engine is gonna spend most of it's life sub 4000rpm. Obviously then, it should work best in that zone. If the engine has a hi-stall behind it, then that picks up the bottom. So now you need a manifold that works from around 2000 to 4000; no big deal,almost any manifold works there. But if you need to fill out either end, that's where the RnD starts to pay off.And that is where the AG really shines.
My specs are under my Avatar.
Yes 8 runners. got it. next time I'll keep an eye on that part. How the hell did you do a GV with a manual box? I'd love to hear that one, is that the 833od or something else?
 
I just ordered it with the adapter. I had to convert my A-Body short M/S to the B/E long shaft but that was easy. And I had to massage the tunnel a teensy bit. Initially I ran it as a splitter with the o/d box. The Ratios were, 3.09-2.41-1.67-1.30-1.00-.78-.71(not used)-.55
Eventually I purchased a 3.09/direct gearset from Passon Performance(thx Jamie), and converted that to what I now use, 3.09-2.41-1.92-1.50-1.40-1.09-1.00-.78
Splits in red. The splits are now seldom used, unless I'm in a show-off mood. I usually shift 3.09-1.92-1.40-1.09-.78 ,so,with this the splits are .62-.73-.78-.715, pretty sweet.
When I'm showing off, I would shift the 1st 4 ratios which gets me 98mph @6500, and then into 4od, The splits on those first gears are .78-.80-.78
 
Had the torker 340,have the torker2 on my 360 now,I would rather use a airgap any day than those two!
 
I just ordered it with the adapter. I had to convert my A-Body short M/S to the B/E long shaft but that was easy. And I had to massage the tunnel a teensy bit. Initially I ran it as a splitter with the o/d box. The Ratios were, 3.09-2.41-1.67-1.30-1.00-.78-.71(not used)-.55
Eventually I purchased a 3.09/direct gearset from Passon Performance(thx Jamie), and converted that to what I now use, 3.09-2.41-1.92-1.50-1.40-1.09-1.00-.78
Splits in red. The splits are now seldom used, unless I'm in a show-off mood. I usually shift 3.09-1.92-1.40-1.09-.78 ,so,with this the splits are .62-.73-.78-.715, pretty sweet.
When I'm showing off, I would shift the 1st 4 ratios which gets me 98mph @6500, and then into 4od, The splits on those first gears are .78-.80-.78
Cool I'll have to keep that in mind for the future. I was thinking I was going to have to shell out like 5G's for a TKO set up. but this sounds pretty good if not better and probably a tad cheaper and easier. to go in my truck.
 
I wouldn't run the GV behind the OD box again with a hi-revver. My 367 was not happy with the wide ratios in that box, and splitting every gear,all the time, was a pain. I would run it behind a sbm with a very short period cam tho; something that had more torque below 3000. Like maybe a 360 with from 200 to 218* @050 The 223* was already iffy. But the 230* was horrible. The splits in that od box are 54% and 60%, so a comfortable 1-2 shift at 2800,drops the Rs to 1512 and 1680, so you gots to have some torque down there, especially when running a 3.23/3.55 gear.I learned that the 230* cam didn't have enough, and ended up with 4.30s. Which made "normal"taking off rather a pain, having to shift, like 3 micro-seconds out. Naw the best city starter gear is between 10/1 and 11/1, not 13.29. This makes a nice comfortable first gear. And if you go for 11/1 with a 62% to 72% split, then second is also comfortable. But 54% is just too far away with bigger cams. I don't like my S to sound like the Mustang boys, who have to hit nearly 4000 at the 1-2shift to keep their under-torqueded hulks moving,lol.
Hence the current combo with splits of 62-73-78-71.5
 
I wouldn't run the GV behind the OD box again with a hi-revver. My 367 was not happy with the wide ratios in that box, and splitting every gear,all the time, was a pain. I would run it behind a sbm with a very short period cam tho; something that had more torque below 3000. Like maybe a 360 with from 200 to 218* @050 The 223* was already iffy. But the 230* was horrible. The splits in that od box are 54% and 60%, so a comfortable 1-2 shift at 2800,drops the Rs to 1512 and 1680, so you gots to have some torque down there, especially when running a 3.23/3.55 gear.I learned that the 230* cam didn't have enough, and ended up with 4.30s. Which made "normal"taking off rather a pain, having to shift, like 3 micro-seconds out. Naw the best city starter gear is between 10/1 and 11/1, not 13.29. This makes a nice comfortable first gear. And if you go for 11/1 with a 62% to 72% split, then second is also comfortable. But 54% is just too far away with bigger cams. I don't like my S to sound like the Mustang boys, who have to hit nearly 4000 at the 1-2shift to keep their under-torqueded hulks moving,lol.
Hence the current combo with splits of 62-73-78-71.5
I gotcha. I'm in the country living in a 2 stop light town so, really don't have to worry about city driving to much. By the time I'm done with this truck all these little problems will be solved she will be predominately a show truck but no trailer queen. I'm a show and go guy, not a show and slow. If you don't mind me asking what do you have tied up in the whole entire thing so, I kinda get an idea of what I'm looking at.
 
I didn't keep track.
I didn't want to know.
Now, I really don't want to know, cuz I coulda probly paid my mortgage out. Instead, I gotta work til I am in my 70s, at least :(
 
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Gear Vender are NOT cheap but they are tough as nails!!!! wish i still had mine!
You cant find them used! either the didn't change the oil and trashed the unit........Or they still own it!!!
 
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