Intake cooling mod. Opinions wanted

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I am using an-6 hose = to 3/8 .I dont run a stat but the stat goes under the housing like before .The spacer is just a spacer it builds up the manifold . Remember the housing is chevy now diff thermo,gasket more options for thermo housing.
 
scamp 408 said:
I just got done with mine .Everyone I talked to said it works 10-15deg .They talk about it in the big small blk book.The spacer is chevy and the thermo housing .They both use oring gaskets but i will use paper.
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What if you went straight across with the lines or do they have to go the way you have them?
 
Here is my setup, no real change compared to what it cost to do this. New 26in. Northern alloy radiator made all the difference, along with a custom alloy Mafaffey fan shroud, MP viscous fan, Milodon pump, water wetter, new hoses. Now it runs cool and my checking account is empty! Looking back, the rad. and fan shroud was the best investment.

Jack

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What intake you got there Jmac? I was gonna do this mod to mine last year and bought a new E-Brock Air gap and it has gussets right over the rear water ports so unless I had them milled off I couldn't drill the holes. I put it together without the mod and found out my engine was actually running alot cooler than I thought. The gauge was way off.
 
Try it without the bypass hose and run an open t stat . My temp didnt get any lower but it does come down faster when the fan comes on. Looks good though.:cheers:
 
Can you drill & tap a hole in the head like the intake manifold ?
What size would be good if you did ?
Would you run the line to the thermostat housing or to the water pump ?
 
I use to have a 340 in my Dart that ran hot and I found this site with some really good info on cars over heating. They did have a tech line for hot rods which I used and the gentleman was a great help and didn't try to sell me anything. He explained the ratio that you want to run your water pump at to get the right GPH and how to temporary get my current cooling system at the time to run cooler which he did by 15 degrees. I ran that engine only one year and changed it out to the current 415 sb which has never ran hot and actually runs on the cool side with the same cooling system. I know the 340 had some problems that caused it to run hot. Anyways I thought this site could help any one. Jysnflem
http://www.evanscooling.com/index2.html

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I did this mod on my 360 with W5 heads. I don't think it runs any cooler but it cools down faster. Mine is a race only setup so that's important to me because my engine doesn't like to be above 160 when I leave the line.

I ran my hoses into the crossover below where the t/stat would be. I run an electric pump and fan without a t/stat., just a restrictor.

This pic is hard to see though

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This one might be a little better.

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Guitar Jones said:
I did this mod on my 360 with W5 heads. I don't think it runs any cooler but it cools down faster. Mine is a race only setup so that's important to me because my engine doesn't like to be above 160 when I leave the line.

I ran my hoses into the crossover below where the t/stat would be. I run an electric pump and fan without a t/stat., just a restrictor.

This pic is hard to see though

71620536.jpg


This one might be a little better.

247725747.jpg
Click to expand...

Nice job!! What size did you use ?
I'm doing mine in 8 A N .
W 5 headed 340!
 
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