Intake design for stock appearing class and needed a winter project

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Just for giggles, we’ll see if it is any difference when I put the old cut down divider dual plane back on.
 
I wouldn’t really expect the cranking compression to change from the intake swap(but ya never know).

I asked what it was because you had commented about the cam.
It doesn’t seem like the cam is really much of a problem if you’re getting 200psi cranking pressure.

Could something work better? Possibly.
Only one way to know for sure.
 
Is it common in these types of engine builds for stock type class racing to see 25 degrees of split in duration? I know you’re running factory manifolds but haven’t they been improved a bunch?
 
Honestly, I know very little to nothing about cams. That cam was recommended to me by another stock appearing guy 9 years ago when the car was a 9.5 to 1 street car. I’m absolutely sure there are gains to be had stepping up to a solid roller more tailored to what the current combination is. The exhaust manifolds on the car have been gasket matched on both ends, but that is it. The next step for those would be ceramic coating inside and out, to see if I can cut the under hood temps down. I want to actually measure what the temp is during a run first.
 
Since the VE of these types of builds are generally quite low compared to a typical bracket race equivalent....... because of restricted intake and exhaust........ they often don’t respond as enthusiastically to some mods that would yield very positive results in more normal builds.
 
Thanks Furrystump for the reply. @PRH Funny you should answer as well and I appreciate it. I was going to tag you and ask your opinion.
@furrystump weather this intake works or not I applaud your dedication to it. Nice work.
 
Well, I pulled it off, I want to make a provision in it to mount different shaped turtles. Will get back to it in the future. Was testing the car at New England dragway and the transmission was flaking out. Very subtle things, click it into gear and it would go softly into gear sometimes. Had hot lapped it a couple of times, so I let it cool over night and made a run tye next morning. Click the car into 2nd at about 6300 rpm and it doesn’t shift. I catch it at 7280 rpm and lift. Pull the transmission out and find the accurately named snap ring that holds the governor housing in place in two pieces in the tail shaft housing. It was letting the housing slide back until the governor pin stopped it. This made the weights bind in the housing. The sprag is perfect, but I’m swapping over to a RMVP.

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If you go with a RMVB do away with the governor completely. I did, just made an aluminum sleeve to replace it on a lathe. Also plug the oil hole in the park gear with a set screw. I don't remember the thread size or pitch but the hole is the correct size already, just tap and plug it.
 
Well, that trans issue sure could have been a lot worse.

I always liked the RMVB myself.

From what I hear, NED also hasn’t been kind to others recently.
 
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