limegreen70
Pokorny Enterprise's
im installing a new intake but I don't know what kind of sealer to use what would be the best sealer? is permatex aircraft sealer good?
intake sealer
- Thread starter limegreen70
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tekslk
Well-Known Member
Permatex black silcone. throw away the end gaskets.
sireland67
Well-Known Member
I use permatex copper spray gasket on the side gaskets, and about 1/4" thick bead of black RTV on the ends, throw the cork ends away.
I use gaskacinch (edelbrock) and rtv for the corners....
The aviation permatex will make it very hard to take apart, but will work. Do it right the first time....
The aviation permatex will make it very hard to take apart, but will work. Do it right the first time....
That's what I use. Works well. The Aviation stuff is more of a adhesive than a sealer. It's nasty to remove when you have to.
It seems the cork end seals are always too thick and can slip out of place easily. Use about a pencil sized bead of RTV and make sure it squishes out a bit for a good seal. Let it set up a few hours before you start the engine or overnight is better.I trimmed mine with a razor blade for a neater look. tmm
It seems the cork end seals are always too thick and can slip out of place easily. Use about a pencil sized bead of RTV and make sure it squishes out a bit for a good seal. Let it set up a few hours before you start the engine or overnight is better.I trimmed mine with a razor blade for a neater look. tmm
I hope that you're talking about the gaskets and not your "private parts".... LOL!
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
What do the gaskets recommend? Some gaskets have embossed seals or a special coating and don't seal as good if you use sealer on them. I assume we're talking about the intake to head gaskets? I toss the end gaskets and use RTV like the others said
Like Tracy said, I toss the end seals, but I like Permatex #2 around the water passages only, on both sides of the gasket. But also like Tracy said, some gaskets with the printed type seal don't necessarily benefit from sealer. I don't like using those, because I think using sealer works better, since I can regulate how much sealer I use.
Oh and don't forget. Put sealer ON THE INTAKE BOLT THREADS TOO. If you do not, oil will migrate up the bolts and pool on the intake and leave you wonderin where the hell it's comin from.
Oh and don't forget. Put sealer ON THE INTAKE BOLT THREADS TOO. If you do not, oil will migrate up the bolts and pool on the intake and leave you wonderin where the hell it's comin from.
I've found that I can replace all of the various different types of RTV silicones, except for the Ultra Copper that I use on exhaust joints, with "The Right Stuff" and it does a better job than what it replaced.
For the end rails I first set the intake in place on the dry intake gaskets and look at how big the end rail gap is. That way I know how high to build up the silicone.
After the intake is torqued, but before the RTV has set up a wet finger run along the RTV will tidy it up nicely.
For the end rails I first set the intake in place on the dry intake gaskets and look at how big the end rail gap is. That way I know how high to build up the silicone.
After the intake is torqued, but before the RTV has set up a wet finger run along the RTV will tidy it up nicely.
I've never tried or even seen that "right stuff". Where do you get it?
I've been using Gaskacinch. I worked for a towing company and the owner used to be a machinist and swore by that stuff. It's basically rubber cement. I like it for flat gaskets because it helps the gasket stick to the parts and makes it easier to assemble. I get it from Mancini, it is now marketed under Edelbrock.
I call it "gaska-snot" because it looks and feels like buggers. When wet it is sticky and stringy/stretchy like a wet bugger. Then is like a dry bugger that you roll in a ball when it dries. I use it on all flat gaskets intake, timing chain, water pump, thermostat, oil pan. Then use RTV for the corners.
View attachment Gaskacinch 01.jpg
View attachment Gaskacinch 02.jpg
limegreen70
Pokorny Enterprise's
is this the stuff to use? I have some of this at home
Yes, you certainly can use that. I use Permatex #2. It's a bit different, but the RTV will certainly work.
About the end rails... There is dowel pin on each rail the perforates the OEM cork gasket. Once the PCV system clogged and crank case pressure increased the cork would break at the perforation / weak point and push out. A bead of RTV might do the same.
What I do is remove those pins and clean the holes. I set the intake on place and use a sharpie to mark the rails so I know exactly where my bead of RTV needs to be.
When applying the bead I fill the dowel pin hole which creates a finger rather than a weak spot. Since my engine is painted red I used red High temp RTV ( was less expensive than Permatex brand too ). When the engine is blue I'll use blue sealant.
FYI By 1980 all mfgrs were painting engines black to hide the leaks. In that is your reason to use or not use black RTV with any engine paint color.
What I do is remove those pins and clean the holes. I set the intake on place and use a sharpie to mark the rails so I know exactly where my bead of RTV needs to be.
When applying the bead I fill the dowel pin hole which creates a finger rather than a weak spot. Since my engine is painted red I used red High temp RTV ( was less expensive than Permatex brand too ). When the engine is blue I'll use blue sealant.
FYI By 1980 all mfgrs were painting engines black to hide the leaks. In that is your reason to use or not use black RTV with any engine paint color.
limegreen70
Pokorny Enterprise's
I have the confidence to swap intakes now but I should use that stuff on the bolt threads? also
Yup.
Mopar to ya
Well-Known Member
At the shop, we like to use a grey silicone that we buy from GM. It is the best we've used. That said, we were out this weekend and I used The Right Stuff on my differential cover. Throw away the end pieces. I prefer Fel-pro gaskets, but I have used Edlebrock before. The Edelbrock are really thick.
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