is it all worth it?

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aha...well obviously ill do what i want...i mean, being banned is only punishable by bitching...what ballpark do you think ill be running in to fix the frame rot?
 
thanks guys...i fallowed the mass populi here, found a 72 dart with no rust, engine, or trans...gonna drop my engine/trans in...plus this one has the disk breaks = bigger bolt pattrern :D
 
thanks guys...i fallowed the mass populi here, found a 72 dart with no rust, engine, or trans...gonna drop my engine/trans in...plus this one has the disk breaks = bigger bolt pattrern :D

Good choice, I was getting a little worried for ya with her pushing you around and all. Drive what you like and let her drive what she likes... they always get over it.
Good choice going with that 72 too. Now lets see some of pics of the new project!
 
lol...got to the car lot and just couldnt bring myself to like plasic ones..tomorrow morning ill put the pics of the shell i bought, and ill keep posted on the swap (or new engine progress??)...bwhich brings me to my next question, im wondering weather or not to put my perfectly good /6 in, or to go to the 318, anythought?
 
in my opinion your better off cutting your losses now. pull what ya can from the car and get a cleaner body. that thing is just going to cost too much time and money to get even remotely respectable..

with that being said, like the argument i had with 340 plot...a car is "never too far gone" it just takes the right person to bring it back, thuss saving orig 340 cars, aswell as some low option /6 cars, its about saving the cars, not making money off parts and scrapping the rest,

my buddy has done some **** people couldnt imagine, bassically took a rotted, smashed AAR cuda, and did EVERYTHING, i meen firewall, roof, frame rails, floors, etc.

now thats one rare blue/blue AAR cuda saved,

the same guy also just finished 1 of 4 70/71? panther pink/black vinal 440/6 challanger, went from a rotted hawaii car to a concours car.
 
with that being said, like the argument i had with 340 plot...a car is "never too far gone" it just takes the right person to bring it back, thuss saving orig 340 cars, aswell as some low option /6 cars, its about saving the cars, not making money off parts and scrapping the rest,

my buddy has done some **** people couldnt imagine, bassically took a rotted, smashed AAR cuda, and did EVERYTHING, i meen firewall, roof, frame rails, floors, etc.

now thats one rare blue/blue AAR cuda saved,

the same guy also just finished 1 of 4 70/71? panther pink/black vinal 440/6 challanger, went from a rotted hawaii car to a concours car.

Your not comparing apples to apples!!!! 10grand in bodywork on a 6-10 thousand dollar car when done OR 10 grand of bodywork on a AAR cuda! REALLY!!!!!!!!
ANY ebody is bringin more money then a 73 dart PERIOD!!!
my opinion is drop in the /6 and enjoy it for awhile.Show your women she can ride in a classic without the fear of sliceing her hand open when she opens the door!!!
 
with that being said, like the argument i had with 340 plot...a car is "never too far gone" it just takes the right person to bring it back, thuss saving orig 340 cars, aswell as some low option /6 cars, its about saving the cars, not making money off parts and scrapping the rest,

my buddy has done some **** people couldnt imagine, bassically took a rotted, smashed AAR cuda, and did EVERYTHING, i meen firewall, roof, frame rails, floors, etc.

now thats one rare blue/blue AAR cuda saved,

the same guy also just finished 1 of 4 70/71? panther pink/black vinal 440/6 challanger, went from a rotted hawaii car to a concours car.


hey man it you want to put 30 grand in to a 73 slant 6 dart that won't be worth 10 grand when done that be my guest. i've seen some amazing restorations over the years also. to me it is what it is. a pieced together car that has very little original on it. give me a rust free survivor car any day of the week.
 
I suspect there will be bits and pieces of the 73 that will be wanted by others.
That will help offset some of your expense.
As for the engine question... I would put 100% of the 73 suspension and drive train under the 72 and drive it until the slant throws the #5 rod through the side of the block.
Who knows how long that might be but it does a couple of things for you.
1. It keeps the 72 from sitting and rotting like the 73 did.
2. It allows time to find good deals on the V8 parts.
There was a time when I had 6 cars in the yard and no happy moparing. Not one of them would drive around the block.
I'm still gathering parts ( that I can't afford ) for my future plans but I have one car that is ready to take me happy moparing whenever I want.
Just my 3 cents LOL
Good luck
 
Glad you decided to pick up another rust-free shell. It will make your job a lot easier, and having it up and running quicker will show your sig other how simple it is to put a smile on your face.

Grant
 
so, is this getting to far into a 318/904 car?

it looks complicated, but its really actually not.

dartdriverquarteroff.jpg
 
wow 604, that is dedication...i completely agree that any car be save, maybe not always economicly, however i dont have to money to do that nor time to pull that off...i would gladly sell my 73 to some one who does, but i really doubt there would be any takers due to the year/condition/and org engine

i was kinda thinking about dropping in my /6, then going and picking up a junk yard 318, completely rebuilding it (over time of course, school is expensive) and dropping it in after its ready.

also Redfish, is there a reason you said throw the #5? is that typical or were you just making a point?
 
also Redfish, is there a reason you said throw the #5? is that typical or were you just making a point?

Most anything else that might go wrong with the 6 cyl. is repairable.
A rod through the block is the famous final scene for many of them.
 
lol, i knew that...i was just wondering why so specific on the #5.

so i just rebuilt my carb (my first 1 brl rebuild) and now my car is running a little rough
 
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