Is there a way to tighten a new power steering gear box.

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hobart63

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I installed a new power steering gear box on my dart cause the old one was leaking like crazy. The old felt perfect. The new one I installed feels real loose. Is there any way to tighten the new gear box so it won't feel so loose. I am open for suggestions.:-k
 
I believe there is an allen bolt with a lock nut on top that you can adjust.
 
Maybe you might want to think about resealing the old one. The one you are calling the new one is used I take it and might just be flat wore out. You can try the sector shaft adjuster on top but don't get carried with it.
 
A professionally rebuilt steering gear should be properly adjusted before shipping. Make sure your gear attachment bolts are properly torqued, and the K member is not cracked.

By loose do you mean there is now extra play in the steering wheel?

Did you disassemble the steering shaft coupler?

If so, you have assembled the coupler’s guts 90 degrees out of position. I had the same problem when changing steering gear and I found that I had assembled the coupler incorrectly. Doing this will give about three inches of steering wheel play.

Look here about four posts down for coupler assembly detail:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=199816
 
The one I bought is a remanufactured cardone gear box. When driving and I hit a bump, car goes all over the place. There is no play. It just turns to easy.
 
There must be play somewhere if the wheels turn while the steering wheel doesn't.

Check for play in the steering box first. With the engine off, turn the input coupler back and forth +/- 1/4 turn by hand and watch the Pitman arm. It should follow, with very little "dead band". If you see play, insure it isn't a loose Pitman arm on the gear box shaft. If the box itself has play, then tighten the sector nut a bit (screw in after loosening lock nut).

If the box is tight, check for play between the Pitman arm movement and the wheels. You need the wheels off the ground for this (support on frame rails or jack under LCA's outer end). The most likely source of play is the tie rod ends.
 
If you removed the center link, make sure it is oriented properly. There is a little taper to the holes. The idler and tie rod ends will fit in and appear firm but will wobble a bit if the link is not oriented properly.
 
Cardon….

Not the highest quality outfit in rebuild land.

I sent my box to Steer n Gear in Ohio for a firm feel build. It came back just perfect, and that little pinkie command control twitchy over assisted 60’s steering feel is gone, gone, gone, it’s gone. After an idler arm repair, and new lower ball joints the car is nice and tight.

As Bill said, jack her up and start moving things, you will find the problem.
 
A1 cardone reman's many parts in some cases they are the only game save some specialty folks and then it comes down to the almighty dollar. A1 quality control has suffered in the last few years. I would definitely check the above recommendations.
 
hobart63 said:
The one I bought is a remanufactured cardone gear box. When driving and I hit a bump, car goes all over the place. There is no play. It just turns to easy.
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If there's no play but now there's a big difference from before than you changed something else. No play means No play. It should hold the line unless you let the wheel move. Just curious, Is there the same amount of turns left to right starting with the wheels centred?
 
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