issue with AMD Demon floor pan..please help newbie

[SGBARRACUDA]

Are you sure the AMD floor pan isn't hitting on the side rails causing it to bow in the middle?

 

[Oklacarcollecto]

i emailed AMD about it and this is what they said:

received your email about the duster floor installation and the issue you are having with the installation.

I looked at the photos and I have had a similar issues with a MOPAR floorpan installations. I found that the firewall must be the last item clamped so the floor can be pushed down all the way and secured to the crossmember. The floor only needs to weld on the horizontal surfaces of the cross member, if you look at the crossmember you will see where the original welds were. Pulling the firewall and floor together will be tough because once the floor is removed the firewall tends to move forward at the bottom. Also MOPAR’s are many times mig welded at this floor to firewall flange because the fitment was so poor here during production and the spot welder would not work on these short flanges. Let me know if this helps you out or if you need any more information with this one. Also feel free to call if you would like,

did anyone put there floor in like amd says?

Take a tape measure to you old pan and then to the AMD pan. Then compare the measurements to see if there is enough material on the AMD pan.

 

[fez440]

Very good points and ideas.


Try bolting the transmission crossbar in and see it all the holes still line up.

i tried what you guys said, i loosened off the torsion bars and put the trans mount back in, then i lifted the car under the trans mount, and that did seem to help. i think with some force as i go along and weld the floor it should have enough give in it to be pushed onto the crossmember.. i hope : )

 

[340sFastback]

Did you stretch a string across side to side to make sure cross member not sagging? Cause it looks like its sagging in the pictures to me.

 

[Oklacarcollecto]

POST 8

Maybe you could stretch a string from one side of the car at the crossmember to the other side and see if there is some droop at the middle?

POST 29

To you stretch a string across side to side to make sure cross member not sagging? Cause it looks like its sagging in the pictures to me.

See the post above yours. It was suggested on the first page of this thread.

 

[clhyer]

Can you post a pic of the fitment at the rocker edge?
C

 

[davescuda]

could be a defect, would not be the first from amd

 

[d5667]

could be a defect, would not be the first from amd

You are correct Dave-they all need a little tweak but that one really looks bad.Sure would be nice to see it in person,from the pics it looks way off.

 

[fez440]

Can you post a pic of the fitment at the rocker edge?
C

here are some pics at the rockers, it fits good around there i think, its tight against them

i kind of wish the top edge along the passenger side rocker was wider... there is barely enough to plug weld it

 

[fez440]

here is where i am not with fitment, everything looks good to me expect around the trans hump, i can push the top down, but the sides are not even close, and i dont think it will get better then this. would that be ok? i would really like to have it flush like it was originally.

 

[fez440]

You are correct Dave-they all need a little tweak but that one really looks bad.Sure would be nice to see it in person,from the pics it looks way off.

yeh i know : ( kind of a bad way to start this project, which took me many years to get the courage to try and finish it

 

[68-GTS]

here is a few pics of the floor laying against the top of the transmission hump without the floor being clamped into place at the firewall, as you can see the gap at the firewall :S also the gap on the sides of the trans hump, if i were able to push it in i would assume it wouldnt line up at the front at the firewall.

I would definitely be bolting that crossmember back in ... see if that helps some.
But even if it stays the same leave it in when you're welding that floor pan in.
Also check all your door gaps you might need to backup a few steps and re brace before you weld it in if AMD is correct on the firewall moving forward.
Lets face it it wont be ready tomorrow night , so take your time. " Haste makes waste "

 

[fez440]

I would definitely be bolting that crossmember back in ... see if that helps some.
But even if it stays the same leave it in when you're welding that floor pan in.
Also check all your door gaps you might need to backup a few steps and re brace before you weld it in if AMD is correct on the firewall moving forward.
Lets face it it wont be ready tomorrow night , so take your time. " Haste makes waste "

yes i put the trans mount back in it. as for the firewall moving, i dont think it did, its a solid piece i tried to move it and it doesnt budge

 

[340sFastback]

POST 8

POST 29



See the post above yours. It was suggested on the first page of this thread.

I know it was already suggested but I never heard him say he did it. It looks like its sagging to me but a string stretched across would verify it its sagging or not.

 

[fez440]

I know it was already suggested but I never heard him say he did it. It looks like its sagging to me but a string stretched across would verify it its sagging or not.

i ran a straight edge across it and it seems fine to me, then again im not to sure what its suppose to look like. also i put the trans mount in and it fits, so i dont think it is sagging coz if it was i dont think the trans mount would fit

 

[68383GTS]

Don't clamp it down anywhere.Try to pushdown the tunnel first.If you get the tunnel close to the cross member use good self tapping screws and screw it to the cross member.You may need a second pair of hands to do all this.If you can get it to fit on the cross member then clamp it at the firewall.Then srew it at the rockers and then the rear.

 

[68-GTS]

here is where i am not with fitment, everything looks good to me expect around the trans hump, i can push the top down, but the sides are not even close, and i dont think it will get better then this. would that be ok? i would really like to have it flush like it was originally.

This might sound foolish but... You had stated you can push it down on the top of the hump... BUT have you tried pushing down on both of the bottom edges of the hump area almost near the torsion area but closer to the hump that might draw the the top of your hump down as well. Pushing the top of the hump will make it go down but it will also force the outer edges of the pan at the rocker outward and pushing at the bottom of the hump will draw them in some. If that makes any sense....

 

[fez440]

This might sound foolish but... You had stated you can push it down on the top of the hump... BUT have you tried pushing down on both of the bottom edges of the hump area almost near the torsion area but closer to the hump that might draw the the top of your hump down as well.

any help is not foolish. yes i have tried that and it does work but it takes a lot of force to do so, but i think it should work as long as when its welded it doesnt pop off lol.. right now the big issue i have is with the sides of the hump the gap there is about 1 inch and i dont see how it can be pushed in.

 

[fez440]

Don't clamp it down anywhere.Try to pushdown the tunnel first.If you get the tunnel close to the cross member use good self tapping screws and screw it to the cross member.You may need a second pair of hands to do all this.If you can get it to fit on the cross member then clamp it at the firewall.Then srew it at the rockers and then the rear.

thanks for the idea

 

[68-GTS]

any help is not foolish. yes i have tried that and it does work but it takes a lot of force to do so, but i think it should work as long as when its welded it doesnt pop off lol.. right now the big issue i have is with the sides of the hump the gap there is about 1 inch and i dont see how it can be pushed in.

Are their any holes that you might be able to draw it in slowly with a bolt and a large washer as not to pull through the pan...

 

[fez440]

Are their any holes that you might be able to draw it in slowly with a bolt and a large washer as not to pull through the pan...

there is a few but nothing close enough to the trans hump

 

[68-GTS]

Don't clamp it down anywhere.Try to pushdown the tunnel first.If you get the tunnel close to the cross member use good self tapping screws and screw it to the cross member.You may need a second pair of hands to do all this.If you can get it to fit on the cross member then clamp it at the firewall.Then srew it at the rockers and then the rear.

Agree ....i would work Center outward too

 

[fez440]

Agree ....i would work Center outward too

i will try what you guys said tommorow, thank you for all your help

 

[68-GTS]

i will try what you guys said tommorow, thank you for all your help

Good luck.... keep us posted... we love pics.


If the headliner area is unfinished... slide a 4x4 post across and completely out the side window area and a short one vertical screwed together of course then slide a bottle jack under and use LIGHT pressure to help push it down. You'll need some helpers though....

Might help some but be careful.

 

[fez440]

Good luck.... keep us posted... we love pics.


If the headliner area is unfinished... slide a 4x4 post across and completely out the side window area and a short one vertical screwed together of course then slide a bottle jack under and use LIGHT pressure to help push it down.

Might help some but be careful.

lol that is what my dad said, to use a 4x4 and a jack and stick it on the ceiling