issue with AMD Demon floor pan..please help newbie

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I'm curious what the huge notch in the cross member is for? I'd think that could be throwing the whole thing outa wack especially if it had a lot of pressure on it. Also if the pan needs the sides were it welds to the rocked trimmed it might make it too high in the center.
 
fez440 said:
yes i do
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I have been away and just caught up on reading the thread.
When you have the original pan in everything lines up, correct?
When you put the AMD pan in and clamp it at the fire wall then the trans tunnel won't lay down where it should, correct?
If you try pushing the trans tunnel down then you have a gap at the fire wall where the metal doesn't meet correct?


I suggested you take measurements of your pan that fits the car and the AMD pan, them match the numbers up. Did you do that? If so what is the results because you haven't said?
 
dbphemi said:
I'm curious what the huge notch in the cross member is for? I'd think that could be throwing the whole thing outa wack especially if it had a lot of pressure on it. Also if the pan needs the sides were it welds to the rocked trimmed it might make it too high in the center.
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Standard 4 speed tranny linkages?
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
I have been away and just caught up on reading the thread.
When you have the original pan in everything lines up, correct?
When you put the AMD pan in and clamp it at the fire wall then the trans tunnel won't lay down where it should, correct?
If you try pushing the trans tunnel down then you have a gap at the fire wall where the metal doesn't meet correct?


I suggested you take measurements of your pan that fits the car and the AMD pan, them match the numbers up. Did you do that? If so what is the results because you haven't said?
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yes your all right, and i didnt measure both pans but i did lay the pan i have on top of the amd pan and they seem to be the same..
 
fez440 said:
yes your all right, and i didnt measure both pans but i did lay the pan i have on top of the amd pan and they seem to be the same..
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Take some measurements. I question if the AMD pan isn't long enough at the firewall since even if you get the tunnel down where it belongs you are going to have a huge gap at the firewall. Big Clue in BLUE.

fez440 said:
i emailed AMD about it and this is what they said:

received your email about the duster floor installation and the issue you are having with the installation.

I looked at the photos and I have had a similar issues with a MOPAR floorpan installations. I found that the firewall must be the last item clamped so the floor can be pushed down all the way and secured to the crossmember. The floor only needs to weld on the horizontal surfaces of the cross member, if you look at the crossmember you will see where the original welds were. Pulling the firewall and floor together will be tough because once the floor is removed the firewall tends to move forward at the bottom. Also MOPAR’s are many times mig welded at this floor to firewall flange because the fitment was so poor here during production and the spot welder would not work on these short flanges. Let me know if this helps you out or if you need any more information with this one. Also feel free to call if you would like,
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I have a factory 340 4 speed car and there are no noches in the crossmember . I'd bet that has everything to do with your floor problem. There is tons of force put on it by the springs and transmission . The floor was probably holding it up till you cut it out and now it's sagging.
 
dbphemi said:
I have a factory 340 4 speed car and there are no noches in the crossmember . I'd bet that has everything to do with your floor problem. There is tons of force put on it by the springs and transmission . The floor was probably holding it up till you ur it out and now it's sagging.
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He said that if he puts the original floor in, it fits correctly. He also said he has checked his car against another Dart there and it is the same.
 
dbphemi said:
I have a factory 340 4 speed car and there are no noches in the crossmember . I'd bet that has everything to do with your floor problem. There is tons of force put on it by the springs and transmission . The floor was probably holding it up till you cut it out and now it's sagging.
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its not original, this car had some kind of aftermarket linkage in it,which is in the boxes somewhere.
 
i will just play around with the floor more tomorrow and try some more of your guys ideas and see where it take me : )
 
Try sitting on the floor hump with both knees on either side of the hump above the torsion bar crossmember without anything being clamped. Then you need someone to look under the car to see if the pan lines up with the crossmember. If it does then put in some zip screws to hold it in place and clamps along the edges. Thats how I had to do my floorpan to get it flush with the crossmember.
 
hi guys, so this is where i am at now, i think the fitment is good now, i just have it held in place with clamps for now.
i would like everyone opinion on it. the gap around the trans hump is about 1/4 inch which i know it can be pushed down at the top with some force, as for the sides there might be a small gap, how come they dont weld on the sides of the hump? if there is a gap after its welded will that be ok?
 

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you're getting there. its looking a lot better. im going to guess that those gaps are tolerances in the amd stampings. i looked at my factory floor, and it is a closed tight fit in those areas. im not sure there is a whole lot you can do about it. i suppose you could try pulling it together with sheet metal screws starting from the center of the hump and working your way out. tack it, then pull the screws out.
 
73AbodEE said:
you're getting there. its looking a lot better. im going to guess that those gaps are tolerances in the amd stampings. i looked at my factory floor, and it is a closed tight fit in those areas. im not sure there is a whole lot you can do about it. i suppose you could try pulling it together with sheet metal screws starting from the center of the hump and working your way out. tack it, then pull the screws out.
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yes i think its very close, i was think about marking it out now to drill the holes..
 
more pics
 

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the firewall to floor butt looks great. maybe if you get a jack under the trans mount , you can bring the floor and crossmember closer together with some weight on the trans hump.
 
73AbodEE said:
the firewall to floor butt looks great. maybe if you get a jack under the trans mount , you can bring the floor and crossmember closer together with some weight on the trans hump.
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yes your right i tried that with my dad stand on it and it the floor did hit the top of the mount. its just the sides that kind of bug me right now coz i wanted a tight fit but i think its as close as it will get
 
i would concentrate on these areas or maybe thats what you are talking about
 

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73AbodEE said:
i would concentrate on these areas or maybe thats what you are talking about
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those brackets move fairly easily, when you push on the floor and push on the brackets the touch so i dont see that being a problem. thanks for looking over my work : )
 
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