It is official, rods are toast. Now rebuilders

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gdizzle

gdizzle

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I can't believe how many posts/threads I have done on this site. I do not mean to bogart the threads.
Anyhow, just took 66 dart with knocking to a rebuilder. As soon as he hears it, he says rods are culprit. Gives a few options, could repair, but no matter he says engine comes out, so should think about complete overhaul which is what I am thinking.

Are their certain brands of parts I should stay away from? It seems there are only 1 or 2 different companies who are putting out the rebuild kits
 
It's only "official" when it is disassembled and the problem seen. No one can see through the block and oil pan. I don't care how good your "rebuilder" is.
 
If you want to keep the budget down.

Just take it apart your self, see if the crank can be turned/machined (~125-$200), replace bearings, probably one used rod, new complete gasket kit. Check the oil pressure. A bad oil pump could have cause the rod to go bad. Good chance of it.

Or do minor rebuild with hone block, new rings, new rod bearings, new main bearings, new oil pump, complete gasket kit. That way you don't have to pay for expensive piston and balancing.

BTW, who is the re-builder you took it to? I'm very familiar with many shops in So Cal area. I sell product to many of them.

What did he want to charge you for a rebuild?
 
RustyRatRod said:
It's only "official" when it is disassembled and the problem seen. No one can see through the block and oil pan. I don't care how good your "rebuilder" is.
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very true

if it were me, I would pull the pan and start inspecting the rods myself



once you know WHAT the problem is you can start thinking of your options as far as rebuilding or replacing that slant 6
 
Slant 6 is notorious for poking the #5 rod through the left side of the block. Complete bottom end rebuild at minimum.
 
RedFish said:
Slant 6 is notorious for poking the #5 rod through the left side of the block. Complete bottom end rebuild at minimum.
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Is that the one that gets the least and/or last oiling?

Guess which cylinder has the weakest and outlining compression....#5 !


Small blocks I heard it's #5 and #6. And surprise-surprise, #6 is what let go on my motor.
 
I read somewhere that heat, changes in crank length, along with its centrifugal deflection, are the causes of rod bearing failure at rear of block. They move around just a tad too much to last forever.
 
autoxcuda said:
Is that the one that gets the least and/or last oiling?

Guess which cylinder has the weakest and outlining compression....#5 !


Small blocks I heard it's #5 and #6. And surprise-surprise, #6 is what let go on my motor.
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#2 on my 360
 
OP, are you hearing a deep sounding knock from the engine? Is it there all the time, or more audible when you accelerate? Is it there at start up and then quiets down after several seconds of running?
 
I would love to be able to inspect it myself. But the idea of somehow lifting the engine, and wedgin a 2x4 and then pushing just so I can somehow get the oil pan gives me the creeps.

I do not have a garage, and I dont have hoist or stand or any of that stuff.
I do have 4 jack stands:)

Also I am in a small time crunch where I need to be able to drive this car to/from work startin in Sept. And I dont work well under pressure. :( to quote Bowie
 
Slant 6 or 273 in 66. Does it need a valve adjustment?
 
Then you need a modern shitbox to drive to and from. Learn to do it yourself man. You will be miles ahead and you will save tons of money and you will feel a sense of accomplishment no one else on earth can give you.
 
any mention of a V8 gets deleted by the moderator.
Maybe I could rebuild the tranny while the engine is out. they might remove it for me. I could handle that right? No machinging involved
 
gdizzle said:
any mention of a V8 gets deleted by the moderator.
Maybe I could rebuild the tranny while the engine is out. they might remove it for me. I could handle that right? No machinging involved
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Does it work ,fine now? Leave it alone,if so... Deal with one fiasco,at a time...
If you want a v8,& install info.. Post a different thread,in the small block section.. If you go v8 thoughtwise, a 318 LA/5.2 magnum is the sweet ticket there...
 
cherry picker and engine stand will linger and consume space like so many unused gadgets on the kitchen counter top. Then there is an array of tools required for a rebuild that will cost you.
The average Joe... He does some measure of maintenance/repairs form brakes to headliners. He isn't equipped or trained for rebuilding any of the 3 major drive train components. He will come out ahead with a reman'd engine from Jasper/wherever installed by who ever. His money is better spent on warranties.
 
RedFish said:
cherry picker and engine stand will linger and consume space like so many unused gadgets on the kitchen counter top. Then there is an array of tools required for a rebuild that will cost you.
The average Joe... He does some measure of maintenance/repairs form brakes to headliners. He isn't equipped or trained for rebuilding any of the 3 major drive train components. He will come out ahead with a reman'd engine from Jasper/wherever installed by who ever. His money is better spent on warranties.
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^^^^^^^^^This^^^^^^^
 
RedFish said:
cherry picker and engine stand will linger and consume space like so many unused gadgets on the kitchen counter top. Then there is an array of tools required for a rebuild that will cost you.
The average Joe... He does some measure of maintenance/repairs form brakes to headliners. He isn't equipped or trained for rebuilding any of the 3 major drive train components. He will come out ahead with a reman'd engine from Jasper/wherever installed by who ever. His money is better spent on warranties.
Click to expand...

100% true... i stumble around in a two car garage stepping over all the 'essential' tools that I only used once every two years or so. Seems silly sometimes.
 
good arguments for those sides. IF a person will be a car guy for the future years ahead, all the skills you learn will come in handy, like learning engine rebuild skills. yes great satisfaction.
and all kinds of arguments in these threads for and against the SB or slant! make a car friend and borrow the picker. rent one. buy one and take it apart and put it under the bench.
get a knowledgable old car friend to recommend a machine shop. first read a good book on rebuilding engines SO you can ask good intelligent questions BEFORE going to the shop!???
and remember if you change over to the SB you will want to upgrade some stuff! ($$$$)
 
your in LA right ?

I would search around the forum for one or two fellow members who are willing to help you out

if one of them brings a cherry picker and the other brings a spare 225, or better yet, a 318 I bet with the promise of a good coockout and an afternoons work you can have that puppy running again
 
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