It was running ok, now it’s terrible, I need help!!!
- Thread starter Bill Boz
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Bill Boz
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Have you checked the condition of the fuel in the fuel filter? Might have trash and rust in it.
Bill Boz
Active Member
Hi
Thanks for the reply
I have a glass fuel filter and the fuel and filter element look clean, I’m going to pick up a valve cover gasket tomorrow. I’ve adjusted the valves on a couple of hot, running 218 flat head engines, you have to crawl into the wheel well and work under the exhaust manifold… the slant 6 should a bit easier (I hope).
Thanks
Bill
Last edited:
slantsixdan
=..=
Here is the Slant-6 valve adjustment procedure. Perhaps you'll find № 3's exhaust valve is a bit too tight.
But I still think you've got sticky-valve(s) trouble.
But I still think you've got sticky-valve(s) trouble.
Dartswinger70
Well-Known Member
Uh oh..what did you do...? 
Dartswinger70
Well-Known Member
Well that's alot better than prostate trouble...
Bill Boz
Active Member
things are looking up. I replaced the cap and rotor and checked the timing. That seems to have things running much better, I had the exhaust replaced today which really quieted things down. I guess my next job is to replace the harmonic balancer so I can time it correctly. I’ll be looking for some help and guidance in swapping it out. I will see what the Damper Dudes can do for me.
Thanks for all your help
Bill
Thanks for all your help
Bill
convdart440
Well-Known Member
I think you have alot of things going on and sadly you can not trust new parts to function correctly now adays.
popping in the exhaust is from a rich or unburnt fuel in the pipe. Check your gap on the plugs are the wires seated in cap correctly, is the rotor in contact with the cap, does the rotor look like its pitted on the end of the pointer. Check the primary voltage and secondary voltage of the coil , is oil leaking from the coil? Start the car at night with lights off and see if wires might be arcing to ground. check the distributer the bushing could be worn to the point your dwell will be all over the place, Pull number one plug and ground it and check color of spark. What is the state of your battery and your alternator , do your headlight change in brightness with change in rpm, does your ammeter gauge jump and return to center when you start your car? once you rule out electrical than its mechanical than fuel.
did you pull all the plugs and have throttle wide open when you did the compression check?
have you removed the valve cover to confirm all valves are opening and check the valve lash, this would be the time to do so.
All this really is after thoughts if your balancer has slipped your wasting your time with all the rest R&R that sob pull the cover and for piece of mind R&R the timing chain and sprockets while its open. When you know 100% that TDC is TDC than you can start accurately diagnose what going on.
Grab a vacuum gauge and hook it up to manifold sourced vacuum port it will tell you if valves are stuck if your exhaust is plugged and use it when setting your idle mixture and idle speed. another test which I feel is more accurate than a compression test is a leak down test. get a tester if you don't already own one.
check your filters and take a sample of your fuel before the pump and check for quality of fuel and any contaminants.
check for vacuum leaks at carb and intake and check your vacuum lines for cracks are brittleness, does your heat riser valve work ( sorry I am not sure if you have one) Do you smell gas ever in or around your car or when driving, are you seeing clouds of smoke blue or white when starting the car, what's your coolant look or smell like any signs of oil or smell like exhaust when you open the radiator cap. keep it simple don't assume catastrophic failure, once your have a place that you know 100% is working properly than you start working from there, finish 100% and check results before you go to the next thing. Last thing you want is to change a dozen things and now its worse etc. change plugs start engine, change cap and rotor points and condensor, start car. Be methodilica
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[ATTACH=full]1716021998[/ATTACH]
I purchased a 1962 Dodge Lancer last December. After I rebuilt the brakes and did some steering repairs I drove the car briefly to check things out. The engine seemed to run ok, no smoke, started and ran fairly well. Each time the engine started there would be a loud pop in the exhaust. I then removed the interior, and spent the past eleven months repainting the car and redoing the interior. I put the car back on the road last week and besides the pooping when the engine started it seemed to run ok. This week I decided to replace the points and condenser and check the timing. Now the popping has gotten much worse, any revving the engine results in popping, on the road trying to accelerate from stopped, results is a series of loud popping in the exhaust, the car wants to bog down momentarily until the popping stops. When decelerating, there is also popping in the exhaust. I don’t know wether the work that I did caused the problem to get worse of if the problem was developing on its own.
The engine is a 1962 225 slant 6, with a 1bbl Holley 1920 carb.
Dwell is 45 degrees, timing is a little early at about 10 degrees. The engine idles well at curb idle and fast idle. I needed to establish TDC as the mark was way off on the harmonic balancer, I did this with a piston stop.
I don’t want to do any unnecessary surgery on the engine so I’m hoping someone might have some insight into what is causing the popping, or miss fire. I have not taken compression readings yet as the engine seemed to be running well before all of this started.
Sorry for this long winded thread, I’m hoping someone has some ideas
Thanks
Bill
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[ATTACH=full]1716021999[/ATTACH]
JoinedJul 5, 2005Messages2,696Reaction score2,435LocationNorth Franklin, CT
Bad fuel.
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[ATTACH=full]1716022000[/ATTACH]
If the damper slipped once and you had to re mark it, it has probably slipped again.
Verify TDC using your piston stop again. And look into either having your damper re built or replaced.
A company named Damper Dudes does a nice job on rebuilding dampers.
You should also do a compression check. The valves may be shot and not sealing well. Worn guides, weak valve springs are another possibility.
Have you adjusted the valves and checked for gunk under the valve cover. If the engine has never been gone through there may be a lot of sludge under the valve cover limiting oil to the rockers and valves.
With the engine running and a timing light on #1 spark plug, how stable is the timing light flash? At idle and at higher RPM’s? If the timing light flash is jumping around, possibly a worn timing chain or a worn distributor. With the timing light you should also be able to see the mechanical distributor advance come in, maybe from 2000 rpm and up. If the mechanical advance in the distributor is not working engine power will be down and being real late it could fire out the exhaust at higher rpm’s.
Check those items and let us know what you find.
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[ATTACH=full]1716022001[/ATTACH]
JoinedJan 19, 2014Messages23,433Reaction score10,705LocationSouth-Central Manitoba,Canada, 900ftelevation
or water in it. or just really rich.
Or dirty points/wrong condenser.
Since this was the last thing changed ....... I would put the old condenser back in it, and clean the points. . If you greased the pointcam with some thin grease that has flown off ....... well, get the right stuff, and clean, clean,clean.
Popping in the exhaust COULD also be caused by air entering the exhaust system somewhere within the first few feet from the head , AND one of the following; 1) either a rich mixture or 2) late ignition timing;
Last edited: Thursday at 8:06 PM
To the Believers/Called/Elect, here is how to escape the coming "hour of Temptation" 1) Come out of Babylon, 2) join the Church of Philadelphia, 3) be ready to flee when your call comes, To the Christians, additionally, Remember God's Seventh Day Sabbath Commandment. for Healing go to John 14:13; use the Son's HEBREW name
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[ATTACH=full]1716022003[/ATTACH]
JoinedJun 7, 2010Messages92,092Reaction score79,798LocationGeorgia
You don't mention where you set the point dwell.
Smart men don't tell you how smart they are. Rich men don't tell you how rich they are. Tough men don't tell you how tough they are. Honest men don't tell you how honest they are. Christian men don't tell you how righteous they are. Con men do.
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JoinedJan 19, 2014Messages23,433Reaction score10,705LocationSouth-Central Manitoba,Canada, 900ftelevation
To the Believers/Called/Elect, here is how to escape the coming "hour of Temptation" 1) Come out of Babylon, 2) join the Church of Philadelphia, 3) be ready to flee when your call comes, To the Christians, additionally, Remember God's Seventh Day Sabbath Commandment. for Healing go to John 14:13; use the Son's HEBREW name
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B
He stated the dwell was 45*.
This could be so many thinks:
- water in fuel
- sediment blocking jets in carb
- cam lobes going flat
- ign/electrical.
I am leaning towards electrical. It is also external. Check: plug wires & spark plugs [ or replace ]; inspect dist cap, rotor for carbon tracking; coil; try another points condenser.
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[ATTACH=full]1716022005[/ATTACH]
JoinedJun 7, 2010Messages92,092Reaction score79,798LocationGeorgia
Smart men don't tell you how smart they are. Rich men don't tell you how rich they are. Tough men don't tell you how tough they are. Honest men don't tell you how honest they are. Christian men don't tell you how righteous they are. Con men do.
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[ATTACH=full]1716022006[/ATTACH]
Could 5 & 7 be mixed up ? Re check firing order ?
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[ATTACH=full]1716022007[/ATTACH]
JoinedJan 8, 2009Messages11,401Reaction score9,790LocationDanielsville Pa. 18038
Turn the crankshaft back and forth with the distributor cap off. See how far you can move the crank until the rotor in the distributor moves. That is your chain slack from the nylon teeth coming off the top timing gear. I believe you need a timing chain.
Also pull the oil pan and clean the oil pan pickup screen . All those nylon teeth will be in there. Not cleaning them out will be the downfall of the engine when it loses oil pressure. Very common on slant sixes
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[ATTACH=full]1716022008[/ATTACH]
JoinedJun 7, 2010Messages92,092Reaction score79,798LocationGeorgia
Smart men don't tell you how smart they are. Rich men don't tell you how rich they are. Tough men don't tell you how tough they are. Honest men don't tell you how honest they are. Christian men don't tell you how righteous they are. Con men do.
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[ATTACH=full]1716022009[/ATTACH]
That darn pesky # 7 plug has baffled more than one slant six owner.
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[ATTACH=full]1716022010[/ATTACH]
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J
the new points and condenser have exacerbated the problem. are they now functioning properly and exposing another underlying problem or were they not right to begin with and the OP just copied what was seen there and made it worse with new parts?
either way, I'd be running that off an auxiliary fuel tank (nurse bottle) to eliminate the possibility of contaminated/poor quality fuel before running up the diagnostic tree.
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[ATTACH=full]1716022011[/ATTACH]
JoinedApr 19, 2010Messages3,194Reaction score2,467LocationSan Jose, California
Spark plug wires.
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[ATTACH=full]1716022012[/ATTACH]
You might have ignition issues as well, but if you're getting pops out the exhaust, especially from an old motor that's been sitting for prolonged periods, I think you're looking at one or more stuck valves. Less popping at idle/more popping with increasing RPM because the faster the engine runs, the less time there is for the valve to close, so a sluggish one will make itself more and more known at higher and higher engine speed. "Until the popping stops" the valve eventually loosens up enough to work enough better to keep the intake charge in the cylinder rather than spitting it out into the exhaust. You don't necessarily have to pull the head; go at it this way.
As for the ignition:
10° BTDC is a little much. 2.5° is the spec; they'll usually run very well at 5° to 7° as long as there's not too much carbon in the chambers and the spark plugs aren't too hot. Find tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this post.
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[ATTACH=full]1716022013[/ATTACH]
JoinedJan 20, 2014Messages76,792Reaction score49,546LocationHoppyworld, PA
OK new points and condensers just suck, check them first. Then firing order and timing. Then like Dan said look at the valves and the adjustment. After all that run a compression check to ensure it is somewhat even compression in all cylendars.
Last edited: Friday at 5:49 AM
When we don't know the answer to a question, we always provide an answer to a question for which we do know the answer
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[ATTACH=full]1716022014[/ATTACH]
Thanks for all the replies. I’ll check compression, while the plugs are out, I’ll pull the distributor so that I can get at the screw underneath, currently the distributor is retarded as much as possible. I’ll also recheck the timing mark with the piston stop, and try to see how much play there is in the timing chain.
I think part of the problem with diagnosis is that it gets much worse when the engine is thoroughly warmed up. The popping doesn’t happen at idle, is most noticeable when just starting out, or when additional throttle is applied, each time the peddle is pushed down, it gives out a pop, generally runs best at higher speed (45 to 55). I have had the feeling, that the engine is using a lot of fuel. Although I’ve put about 10 gal of fuel in the tank, it might still have some bad gas on board.
I’ll get back with my findings
Thanks
Bill
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[ATTACH=full]1716022015[/ATTACH]
JoinedJan 19, 2014Messages23,433Reaction score10,705LocationSouth-Central Manitoba,Canada, 900ftelevation
1) when you change the point-gap, the timing changes. And the idle-speed usually changes as well.
2) If you reset the idlespeed, this sometimes, depending on which way it went, upsets the synchronization of the Idle-discharge port to the transfer port.
3) with retarded timing, and a rich idle-mixture, the A/F mixture may not finish burning in the chamber. If when it exits the chamber and enters the exhaust system, it finds fresh air in there, it will flame up and pop.
4) if your vacuum advance can is working, and you (or someone) has plumbed it to full-time manifold vacuum, then it will be difficult if not impossible to set the timing to the factory spec. If you manage to set the timing to say 5* in this mode, then whenever you step on the gas and the vacuum falls, then the V-can will drop out, and your ignition timing can become severely retarded. Which takes you back to #3 above. If you intended to use the Vcan in this mode; you gotta set the base-timing with the Vcan disconnected.
To the Believers/Called/Elect, here is how to escape the coming "hour of Temptation" 1) Come out of Babylon, 2) join the Church of Philadelphia, 3) be ready to flee when your call comes, To the Christians, additionally, Remember God's Seventh Day Sabbath Commandment. for Healing go to John 14:13; use the Son's HEBREW name
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[ATTACH=full]1716022016[/ATTACH]
Had a similar issue and it turned out to be swapped spark plug wires. Verify firing order.....and plug wires. My rich condition actually loaded up the muffler and blew it apart like a bomb.
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[ATTACH=full]1716022017[/ATTACH]
JoinedJul 20, 2008Messages18,131Reaction score7,001LocationShepherd, Texas ( SE Tx)
Maybe everythng needs a good soak in Seafoam???
No matter where you go.....there ya are!
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[ATTACH=full]1716022018[/ATTACH]
Wow, all of this information is a lot to absorb.
Today I pulled the plugs and distributor (needed to center the bottom screw). I noticed what looked like some carbon scoring inside the cap so ordered a new cap and rotor. I then did a compression test. 4 cylinders read 130 lbs 1 @ 135 lbs and one at 127lbs.
I then tried to find TDC again, ( it did slip)so I could check the timing. I put everything back together with the new cap and rotor. The wires and plugs are all new. I noted that all plugs looked identical and clean.
I then started the engine, it popped like crazy, but settled down enough to adjust the timing. The timing light and mark are steady, and increase smoothly with increased engine speed. I set timing with the vacuum hose removed.
I don’t know much about slant 6’s but I would expect a very smooth idle. I think this engine is a bit rough, I pulled each spark plug wire, one at a time and found that each one caused the idle speed to decrease and the engine to idle rougher, except for #3 which seemed to cause little change. #3 is also the cylindar that had 127 lbs compression. (Still within specs).
I took the car for a spin. It still popped when I first accelerated but is smoothed out and accelerated up to about 50 mph. When I took my foot off the gas it started popping as the car slowed down.
Since the popping seems to happen when the accelerator pump is engaged, could I have to much fuel? It’s so hard to tell wether it’s a fuel or ignition problem.
I really appreciate all of you input
Bill
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[ATTACH=full]1716022019[/ATTACH]
JoinedJan 20, 2014Messages76,792Reaction score49,546LocationHoppyworld, PA
127 is not bad at all. OK seems #3 is the issue. Chek the valve adjustment next.
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[ATTACH=full]1716022020[/ATTACH]
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I think you have alot of things going on and sadly you can not trust new parts to function correctly now adays.
popping in the exhaust is from a rich or unburnt fuel in the pipe. Check your gap on the plugs are the wires seated in cap correctly, is the rotor in contact with the cap, does the rotor look like its pitted on the end of the pointer. Check the primary voltage and secondary voltage of the coil , is oil leaking from the coil? Start the car at night with lights off and see if wires might be arcing to ground. check the distributer the bushing could be worn to the point your dwell will be all over the place, Pull number one plug and ground it and check color of spark. What is the state of your battery and your alternator , do your headlight change in brightness with change in rpm, does your ammeter gauge jump and return to center when you start your car? once you rule out electrical than its mechanical than fuel.
did you pull all the plugs and have throttle wide open when you did the compression check?
have you removed the valve cover to confirm all valves are opening and check the valve lash, this would be the time to do so.
All this really is after thoughts if your balancer has slipped your wasting your time with all the rest R&R that sob pull the cover and for piece of mind R&R the timing chain and sprockets while its open. When you know 100% that TDC is TDC than you can start accurately diagnose what going on.
Grab a vacuum gauge and hook it up to manifold sourced vacuum port it will tell you if valves are stuck if your exhaust is plugged and use it when setting your idle mixture and idle speed. another test which I feel is more accurate than a compression test is a leak down test. get a tester if you don't already own one.
check your filters and take a sample of your fuel before the pump and check for quality of fuel and any contaminants.
check for vacuum leaks at carb and intake and check your vacuum lines for cracks are brittleness, does your heat riser valve work ( sorry I am not sure if you have one) Do you smell gas ever in or around your car or when driving, are you seeing clouds of smoke blue or white when starting the car, what's your coolant look or smell like any signs of oil or smell like exhaust when you open the radiator cap. keep it simple don't assume catastrophic failure, once your have a place that you know 100% is working properly than you start working from there, finish 100% and check results before you go to the next thing. Last thing you want is to change a dozen things and now its worse etc. change plugs start engine, change cap and rotor points and condensor, start car. Be methodilical in your approach and keep a note pad to document findings before and after you change thigs around. I would start with your timing chain before it goes and you end up with a junked slant 6
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popping in the exhaust is from a rich or unburnt fuel in the pipe. Check your gap on the plugs are the wires seated in cap correctly, is the rotor in contact with the cap, does the rotor look like its pitted on the end of the pointer. Check the primary voltage and secondary voltage of the coil , is oil leaking from the coil? Start the car at night with lights off and see if wires might be arcing to ground. check the distributer the bushing could be worn to the point your dwell will be all over the place, Pull number one plug and ground it and check color of spark. What is the state of your battery and your alternator , do your headlight change in brightness with change in rpm, does your ammeter gauge jump and return to center when you start your car? once you rule out electrical than its mechanical than fuel.
did you pull all the plugs and have throttle wide open when you did the compression check?
have you removed the valve cover to confirm all valves are opening and check the valve lash, this would be the time to do so.
All this really is after thoughts if your balancer has slipped your wasting your time with all the rest R&R that sob pull the cover and for piece of mind R&R the timing chain and sprockets while its open. When you know 100% that TDC is TDC than you can start accurately diagnose what going on.
Grab a vacuum gauge and hook it up to manifold sourced vacuum port it will tell you if valves are stuck if your exhaust is plugged and use it when setting your idle mixture and idle speed. another test which I feel is more accurate than a compression test is a leak down test. get a tester if you don't already own one.
check your filters and take a sample of your fuel before the pump and check for quality of fuel and any contaminants.
check for vacuum leaks at carb and intake and check your vacuum lines for cracks are brittleness, does your heat riser valve work ( sorry I am not sure if you have one) Do you smell gas ever in or around your car or when driving, are you seeing clouds of smoke blue or white when starting the car, what's your coolant look or smell like any signs of oil or smell like exhaust when you open the radiator cap. keep it simple don't assume catastrophic failure, once your have a place that you know 100% is working properly than you start working from there, finish 100% and check results before you go to the next thing. Last thing you want is to change a dozen things and now its worse etc. change plugs start engine, change cap and rotor points and condensor, start car. Be methodilica
convdart440
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It was running ok, now it’s terrible, I need help!!!
- Thread starterBill Boz
- Start dateThursday at 7:17 PM
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[ATTACH=full]1716021998[/ATTACH]
Bill Boz
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JoinedNov 25, 2021Messages30Reaction score41LocationHenderson, NCI purchased a 1962 Dodge Lancer last December. After I rebuilt the brakes and did some steering repairs I drove the car briefly to check things out. The engine seemed to run ok, no smoke, started and ran fairly well. Each time the engine started there would be a loud pop in the exhaust. I then removed the interior, and spent the past eleven months repainting the car and redoing the interior. I put the car back on the road last week and besides the pooping when the engine started it seemed to run ok. This week I decided to replace the points and condenser and check the timing. Now the popping has gotten much worse, any revving the engine results in popping, on the road trying to accelerate from stopped, results is a series of loud popping in the exhaust, the car wants to bog down momentarily until the popping stops. When decelerating, there is also popping in the exhaust. I don’t know wether the work that I did caused the problem to get worse of if the problem was developing on its own.
The engine is a 1962 225 slant 6, with a 1bbl Holley 1920 carb.
Dwell is 45 degrees, timing is a little early at about 10 degrees. The engine idles well at curb idle and fast idle. I needed to establish TDC as the mark was way off on the harmonic balancer, I did this with a piston stop.
I don’t want to do any unnecessary surgery on the engine so I’m hoping someone might have some insight into what is causing the popping, or miss fire. I have not taken compression readings yet as the engine seemed to be running well before all of this started.
Sorry for this long winded thread, I’m hoping someone has some ideas
Thanks
Bill
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[ATTACH=full]1716021999[/ATTACH]
Syleng1
Karma is real and Life is short...
FABO Gold MemberJoinedJul 5, 2005Messages2,696Reaction score2,435LocationNorth Franklin, CT
Bad fuel.
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[ATTACH=full]1716022000[/ATTACH]
my68barracuda
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JoinedDec 6, 2009Messages2,529Reaction score2,493LocationIndianapolis INIf the damper slipped once and you had to re mark it, it has probably slipped again.
Verify TDC using your piston stop again. And look into either having your damper re built or replaced.
A company named Damper Dudes does a nice job on rebuilding dampers.
You should also do a compression check. The valves may be shot and not sealing well. Worn guides, weak valve springs are another possibility.
Have you adjusted the valves and checked for gunk under the valve cover. If the engine has never been gone through there may be a lot of sludge under the valve cover limiting oil to the rockers and valves.
With the engine running and a timing light on #1 spark plug, how stable is the timing light flash? At idle and at higher RPM’s? If the timing light flash is jumping around, possibly a worn timing chain or a worn distributor. With the timing light you should also be able to see the mechanical distributor advance come in, maybe from 2000 rpm and up. If the mechanical advance in the distributor is not working engine power will be down and being real late it could fire out the exhaust at higher rpm’s.
Check those items and let us know what you find.
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[ATTACH=full]1716022001[/ATTACH]
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
FABO Gold MemberJoinedJan 19, 2014Messages23,433Reaction score10,705LocationSouth-Central Manitoba,Canada, 900ftelevation
or water in it. or just really rich.
Or dirty points/wrong condenser.
Since this was the last thing changed ....... I would put the old condenser back in it, and clean the points. . If you greased the pointcam with some thin grease that has flown off ....... well, get the right stuff, and clean, clean,clean.
Popping in the exhaust COULD also be caused by air entering the exhaust system somewhere within the first few feet from the head , AND one of the following; 1) either a rich mixture or 2) late ignition timing;
Last edited: Thursday at 8:06 PM
To the Believers/Called/Elect, here is how to escape the coming "hour of Temptation" 1) Come out of Babylon, 2) join the Church of Philadelphia, 3) be ready to flee when your call comes, To the Christians, additionally, Remember God's Seventh Day Sabbath Commandment. for Healing go to John 14:13; use the Son's HEBREW name
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my68barracuda
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JoinedDec 6, 2009Messages2,529Reaction score2,493LocationIndianapolis INBut remember AJ, the motor was popping before the points and condenser were swapped out. He said every time the engine was started,,,,
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RustyRatRod
I was born on a Monday. Not last Monday.
FABO Gold MemberJoinedJun 7, 2010Messages92,092Reaction score79,798LocationGeorgia
You don't mention where you set the point dwell.
Smart men don't tell you how smart they are. Rich men don't tell you how rich they are. Tough men don't tell you how tough they are. Honest men don't tell you how honest they are. Christian men don't tell you how righteous they are. Con men do.
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AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
FABO Gold MemberJoinedJan 19, 2014Messages23,433Reaction score10,705LocationSouth-Central Manitoba,Canada, 900ftelevation
Did he not say that after replacing the points, and resetting the timing...... it got worse?
To the Believers/Called/Elect, here is how to escape the coming "hour of Temptation" 1) Come out of Babylon, 2) join the Church of Philadelphia, 3) be ready to flee when your call comes, To the Christians, additionally, Remember God's Seventh Day Sabbath Commandment. for Healing go to John 14:13; use the Son's HEBREW name
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Bewy
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JoinedJan 1, 2021Messages3,077Reaction score1,973LocationAustraliaHe stated the dwell was 45*.
This could be so many thinks:
- water in fuel
- sediment blocking jets in carb
- cam lobes going flat
- ign/electrical.
I am leaning towards electrical. It is also external. Check: plug wires & spark plugs [ or replace ]; inspect dist cap, rotor for carbon tracking; coil; try another points condenser.
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[ATTACH=full]1716022005[/ATTACH]
RustyRatRod
I was born on a Monday. Not last Monday.
FABO Gold MemberJoinedJun 7, 2010Messages92,092Reaction score79,798LocationGeorgia
I missed that with one big paragraph.
Smart men don't tell you how smart they are. Rich men don't tell you how rich they are. Tough men don't tell you how tough they are. Honest men don't tell you how honest they are. Christian men don't tell you how righteous they are. Con men do.
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Biff
Cheep not easy
JoinedJan 29, 2017Messages9,567Reaction score21,095LocationCanadaCould 5 & 7 be mixed up ? Re check firing order ?
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Oldmanmopar
Going left turning right
FABO Gold MemberJoinedJan 8, 2009Messages11,401Reaction score9,790LocationDanielsville Pa. 18038
Turn the crankshaft back and forth with the distributor cap off. See how far you can move the crank until the rotor in the distributor moves. That is your chain slack from the nylon teeth coming off the top timing gear. I believe you need a timing chain.
Also pull the oil pan and clean the oil pan pickup screen . All those nylon teeth will be in there. Not cleaning them out will be the downfall of the engine when it loses oil pressure. Very common on slant sixes
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[ATTACH=full]1716022008[/ATTACH]
RustyRatRod
I was born on a Monday. Not last Monday.
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I've never seen a slant 6 with a number 7.
Smart men don't tell you how smart they are. Rich men don't tell you how rich they are. Tough men don't tell you how tough they are. Honest men don't tell you how honest they are. Christian men don't tell you how righteous they are. Con men do.
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my68barracuda
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JoinedDec 6, 2009Messages2,529Reaction score2,493LocationIndianapolis INYep, that’s it,
That darn pesky # 7 plug has baffled more than one slant six owner.
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[ATTACH=full]1716022010[/ATTACH]
my68barracuda
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JoinedDec 6, 2009Messages2,529Reaction score2,493LocationIndianapolis INJust saying the problem did not start with the replacement of the points and condenser, it is firing through the exhaust with the new and old set.
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junkyardhero
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JoinedJan 23, 2005Messages189Reaction score211yes, but upon replacing the points and condenser the problem got worse.
the new points and condenser have exacerbated the problem. are they now functioning properly and exposing another underlying problem or were they not right to begin with and the OP just copied what was seen there and made it worse with new parts?
either way, I'd be running that off an auxiliary fuel tank (nurse bottle) to eliminate the possibility of contaminated/poor quality fuel before running up the diagnostic tree.
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[ATTACH=full]1716022011[/ATTACH]
Murray
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Spark plug wires.
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[ATTACH=full]1716022012[/ATTACH]
slantsixdan
=..=
JoinedJan 7, 2007Messages7,114Reaction score2,666LocationVancouver BCYou might have ignition issues as well, but if you're getting pops out the exhaust, especially from an old motor that's been sitting for prolonged periods, I think you're looking at one or more stuck valves. Less popping at idle/more popping with increasing RPM because the faster the engine runs, the less time there is for the valve to close, so a sluggish one will make itself more and more known at higher and higher engine speed. "Until the popping stops" the valve eventually loosens up enough to work enough better to keep the intake charge in the cylinder rather than spitting it out into the exhaust. You don't necessarily have to pull the head; go at it this way.
As for the ignition:
10° BTDC is a little much. 2.5° is the spec; they'll usually run very well at 5° to 7° as long as there's not too much carbon in the chambers and the spark plugs aren't too hot. Find tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this post.
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[ATTACH=full]1716022013[/ATTACH]
halifaxhops
It's going to get stupid around here!
FABO Gold MemberJoinedJan 20, 2014Messages76,792Reaction score49,546LocationHoppyworld, PA
OK new points and condensers just suck, check them first. Then firing order and timing. Then like Dan said look at the valves and the adjustment. After all that run a compression check to ensure it is somewhat even compression in all cylendars.
Last edited: Friday at 5:49 AM
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[ATTACH=full]1716022014[/ATTACH]
Bill Boz
Active Member
JoinedNov 25, 2021Messages30Reaction score41LocationHenderson, NCThanks for all the replies. I’ll check compression, while the plugs are out, I’ll pull the distributor so that I can get at the screw underneath, currently the distributor is retarded as much as possible. I’ll also recheck the timing mark with the piston stop, and try to see how much play there is in the timing chain.
I think part of the problem with diagnosis is that it gets much worse when the engine is thoroughly warmed up. The popping doesn’t happen at idle, is most noticeable when just starting out, or when additional throttle is applied, each time the peddle is pushed down, it gives out a pop, generally runs best at higher speed (45 to 55). I have had the feeling, that the engine is using a lot of fuel. Although I’ve put about 10 gal of fuel in the tank, it might still have some bad gas on board.
I’ll get back with my findings
Thanks
Bill
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[ATTACH=full]1716022015[/ATTACH]
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
FABO Gold MemberJoinedJan 19, 2014Messages23,433Reaction score10,705LocationSouth-Central Manitoba,Canada, 900ftelevation
This could be part of the problem. I say part because;
1) when you change the point-gap, the timing changes. And the idle-speed usually changes as well.
2) If you reset the idlespeed, this sometimes, depending on which way it went, upsets the synchronization of the Idle-discharge port to the transfer port.
3) with retarded timing, and a rich idle-mixture, the A/F mixture may not finish burning in the chamber. If when it exits the chamber and enters the exhaust system, it finds fresh air in there, it will flame up and pop.
4) if your vacuum advance can is working, and you (or someone) has plumbed it to full-time manifold vacuum, then it will be difficult if not impossible to set the timing to the factory spec. If you manage to set the timing to say 5* in this mode, then whenever you step on the gas and the vacuum falls, then the V-can will drop out, and your ignition timing can become severely retarded. Which takes you back to #3 above. If you intended to use the Vcan in this mode; you gotta set the base-timing with the Vcan disconnected.
To the Believers/Called/Elect, here is how to escape the coming "hour of Temptation" 1) Come out of Babylon, 2) join the Church of Philadelphia, 3) be ready to flee when your call comes, To the Christians, additionally, Remember God's Seventh Day Sabbath Commandment. for Healing go to John 14:13; use the Son's HEBREW name
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[ATTACH=full]1716022016[/ATTACH]
Sdriche
Well-Known Member
JoinedOct 17, 2021Messages136Reaction score68LocationGarnet valley, paHad a similar issue and it turned out to be swapped spark plug wires. Verify firing order.....and plug wires. My rich condition actually loaded up the muffler and blew it apart like a bomb.
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[ATTACH=full]1716022017[/ATTACH]
barbee6043
barbee 6043
FABO Gold MemberJoinedJul 20, 2008Messages18,131Reaction score7,001LocationShepherd, Texas ( SE Tx)
Maybe everythng needs a good soak in Seafoam???
No matter where you go.....there ya are!
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[ATTACH=full]1716022018[/ATTACH]
Bill Boz
Active Member
JoinedNov 25, 2021Messages30Reaction score41LocationHenderson, NCWow, all of this information is a lot to absorb.
Today I pulled the plugs and distributor (needed to center the bottom screw). I noticed what looked like some carbon scoring inside the cap so ordered a new cap and rotor. I then did a compression test. 4 cylinders read 130 lbs 1 @ 135 lbs and one at 127lbs.
I then tried to find TDC again, ( it did slip)so I could check the timing. I put everything back together with the new cap and rotor. The wires and plugs are all new. I noted that all plugs looked identical and clean.
I then started the engine, it popped like crazy, but settled down enough to adjust the timing. The timing light and mark are steady, and increase smoothly with increased engine speed. I set timing with the vacuum hose removed.
I don’t know much about slant 6’s but I would expect a very smooth idle. I think this engine is a bit rough, I pulled each spark plug wire, one at a time and found that each one caused the idle speed to decrease and the engine to idle rougher, except for #3 which seemed to cause little change. #3 is also the cylindar that had 127 lbs compression. (Still within specs).
I took the car for a spin. It still popped when I first accelerated but is smoothed out and accelerated up to about 50 mph. When I took my foot off the gas it started popping as the car slowed down.
Since the popping seems to happen when the accelerator pump is engaged, could I have to much fuel? It’s so hard to tell wether it’s a fuel or ignition problem.
I really appreciate all of you input
Bill
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[ATTACH=full]1716022019[/ATTACH]
halifaxhops
It's going to get stupid around here!
FABO Gold MemberJoinedJan 20, 2014Messages76,792Reaction score49,546LocationHoppyworld, PA
127 is not bad at all. OK seems #3 is the issue. Chek the valve adjustment next.
When we don't know the answer to a question, we always provide an answer to a question for which we do know the answer
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[ATTACH=full]1716022020[/ATTACH]
Biff
Cheep not easy
JoinedJan 29, 2017Messages9,567Reaction score21,095LocationCanadaWell chit missed the part it was a slant my bad
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I think you have alot of things going on and sadly you can not trust new parts to function correctly now adays.
popping in the exhaust is from a rich or unburnt fuel in the pipe. Check your gap on the plugs are the wires seated in cap correctly, is the rotor in contact with the cap, does the rotor look like its pitted on the end of the pointer. Check the primary voltage and secondary voltage of the coil , is oil leaking from the coil? Start the car at night with lights off and see if wires might be arcing to ground. check the distributer the bushing could be worn to the point your dwell will be all over the place, Pull number one plug and ground it and check color of spark. What is the state of your battery and your alternator , do your headlight change in brightness with change in rpm, does your ammeter gauge jump and return to center when you start your car? once you rule out electrical than its mechanical than fuel.
did you pull all the plugs and have throttle wide open when you did the compression check?
have you removed the valve cover to confirm all valves are opening and check the valve lash, this would be the time to do so.
All this really is after thoughts if your balancer has slipped your wasting your time with all the rest R&R that sob pull the cover and for piece of mind R&R the timing chain and sprockets while its open. When you know 100% that TDC is TDC than you can start accurately diagnose what going on.
Grab a vacuum gauge and hook it up to manifold sourced vacuum port it will tell you if valves are stuck if your exhaust is plugged and use it when setting your idle mixture and idle speed. another test which I feel is more accurate than a compression test is a leak down test. get a tester if you don't already own one.
check your filters and take a sample of your fuel before the pump and check for quality of fuel and any contaminants.
check for vacuum leaks at carb and intake and check your vacuum lines for cracks are brittleness, does your heat riser valve work ( sorry I am not sure if you have one) Do you smell gas ever in or around your car or when driving, are you seeing clouds of smoke blue or white when starting the car, what's your coolant look or smell like any signs of oil or smell like exhaust when you open the radiator cap. keep it simple don't assume catastrophic failure, once your have a place that you know 100% is working properly than you start working from there, finish 100% and check results before you go to the next thing. Last thing you want is to change a dozen things and now its worse etc. change plugs start engine, change cap and rotor points and condensor, start car. Be methodilical in your approach and keep a note pad to document findings before and after you change thigs around. I would start with your timing chain before it goes and you end up with a junked slant 6
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Bill Boz
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Thanks for the well considered and detailed reply. I will work on the balancer next, I thought I might as well line up a chain, gaskets and seals, I didn’t think about the gears, I’ll have to look into that. I’m looking for a post describing how to pull and replace the balancer.I think you have alot of things going on and sadly you can not trust new parts to function correctly now adays.
popping in the exhaust is from a rich or unburnt fuel in the pipe. Check your gap on the plugs are the wires seated in cap correctly, is the rotor in contact with the cap, does the rotor look like its pitted on the end of the pointer. Check the primary voltage and secondary voltage of the coil , is oil leaking from the coil? Start the car at night with lights off and see if wires might be arcing to ground. check the distributer the bushing could be worn to the point your dwell will be all over the place, Pull number one plug and ground it and check color of spark. What is the state of your battery and your alternator , do your headlight change in brightness with change in rpm, does your ammeter gauge jump and return to center when you start your car? once you rule out electrical than its mechanical than fuel.
did you pull all the plugs and have throttle wide open when you did the compression check?
have you removed the valve cover to confirm all valves are opening and check the valve lash, this would be the time to do so.
All this really is after thoughts if your balancer has slipped your wasting your time with all the rest R&R that sob pull the cover and for piece of mind R&R the timing chain and sprockets while its open. When you know 100% that TDC is TDC than you can start accurately diagnose what going on.
Grab a vacuum gauge and hook it up to manifold sourced vacuum port it will tell you if valves are stuck if your exhaust is plugged and use it when setting your idle mixture and idle speed. another test which I feel is more accurate than a compression test is a leak down test. get a tester if you don't already own one.
check your filters and take a sample of your fuel before the pump and check for quality of fuel and any contaminants.
check for vacuum leaks at carb and intake and check your vacuum lines for cracks are brittleness, does your heat riser valve work ( sorry I am not sure if you have one) Do you smell gas ever in or around your car or when driving, are you seeing clouds of smoke blue or white when starting the car, what's your coolant look or smell like any signs of oil or smell like exhaust when you open the radiator cap. keep it simple don't assume catastrophic failure, once your have a place that you know 100% is working properly than you start working from there, finish 100% and check results before you go to the next thing. Last thing you want is to change a dozen things and now its worse etc. change plugs start engine, change cap and rotor points and condensor, start car. Be methodilica
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It was running ok, now it’s terrible, I need help!!!
- Thread starterBill Boz
- Start dateThursday at 7:17 PM
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[ATTACH=full]1716021998[/ATTACH]
Bill Boz
Active Member
JoinedNov 25, 2021Messages30Reaction score41LocationHenderson, NC
I purchased a 1962 Dodge Lancer last December. After I rebuilt the brakes and did some steering repairs I drove the car briefly to check things out. The engine seemed to run ok, no smoke, started and ran fairly well. Each time the engine started there would be a loud pop in the exhaust. I then removed the interior, and spent the past eleven months repainting the car and redoing the interior. I put the car back on the road last week and besides the pooping when the engine started it seemed to run ok. This week I decided to replace the points and condenser and check the timing. Now the popping has gotten much worse, any revving the engine results in popping, on the road trying to accelerate from stopped, results is a series of loud popping in the exhaust, the car wants to bog down momentarily until the popping stops. When decelerating, there is also popping in the exhaust. I don’t know wether the work that I did caused the problem to get worse of if the problem was developing on its own.
The engine is a 1962 225 slant 6, with a 1bbl Holley 1920 carb.
Dwell is 45 degrees, timing is a little early at about 10 degrees. The engine idles well at curb idle and fast idle. I needed to establish TDC as the mark was way off on the harmonic balancer, I did this with a piston stop.
I don’t want to do any unnecessary surgery on the engine so I’m hoping someone might have some insight into what is causing the popping, or miss fire. I have not taken compression readings yet as the engine seemed to be running well before all of this started.
Sorry for this long winded thread, I’m hoping someone has some ideas
Thanks
Bill
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[ATTACH=full]1716021999[/ATTACH]
Syleng1
Karma is real and Life is short...
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JoinedJul 5, 2005Messages2,696Reaction score2,435LocationNorth Franklin, CT
Bad fuel.
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[ATTACH=full]1716022000[/ATTACH]
my68barracuda
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JoinedDec 6, 2009Messages2,529Reaction score2,493LocationIndianapolis IN
If the damper slipped once and you had to re mark it, it has probably slipped again.
Verify TDC using your piston stop again. And look into either having your damper re built or replaced.
A company named Damper Dudes does a nice job on rebuilding dampers.
You should also do a compression check. The valves may be shot and not sealing well. Worn guides, weak valve springs are another possibility.
Have you adjusted the valves and checked for gunk under the valve cover. If the engine has never been gone through there may be a lot of sludge under the valve cover limiting oil to the rockers and valves.
With the engine running and a timing light on #1 spark plug, how stable is the timing light flash? At idle and at higher RPM’s? If the timing light flash is jumping around, possibly a worn timing chain or a worn distributor. With the timing light you should also be able to see the mechanical distributor advance come in, maybe from 2000 rpm and up. If the mechanical advance in the distributor is not working engine power will be down and being real late it could fire out the exhaust at higher rpm’s.
Check those items and let us know what you find.
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[ATTACH=full]1716022001[/ATTACH]
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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JoinedJan 19, 2014Messages23,433Reaction score10,705LocationSouth-Central Manitoba,Canada, 900ftelevation
or water in it. or just really rich.
Or dirty points/wrong condenser.
Since this was the last thing changed ....... I would put the old condenser back in it, and clean the points. . If you greased the pointcam with some thin grease that has flown off ....... well, get the right stuff, and clean, clean,clean.
Popping in the exhaust COULD also be caused by air entering the exhaust system somewhere within the first few feet from the head , AND one of the following; 1) either a rich mixture or 2) late ignition timing;
Last edited: Thursday at 8:06 PM
To the Believers/Called/Elect, here is how to escape the coming "hour of Temptation" 1) Come out of Babylon, 2) join the Church of Philadelphia, 3) be ready to flee when your call comes, To the Christians, additionally, Remember God's Seventh Day Sabbath Commandment. for Healing go to John 14:13; use the Son's HEBREW name
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my68barracuda
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JoinedDec 6, 2009Messages2,529Reaction score2,493LocationIndianapolis IN
But remember AJ, the motor was popping before the points and condenser were swapped out. He said every time the engine was started,,,,
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RustyRatRod
I was born on a Monday. Not last Monday.
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You don't mention where you set the point dwell.
Smart men don't tell you how smart they are. Rich men don't tell you how rich they are. Tough men don't tell you how tough they are. Honest men don't tell you how honest they are. Christian men don't tell you how righteous they are. Con men do.
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[ATTACH=full]1716022004[/ATTACH]
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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JoinedJan 19, 2014Messages23,433Reaction score10,705LocationSouth-Central Manitoba,Canada, 900ftelevation
Did he not say that after replacing the points, and resetting the timing...... it got worse?
To the Believers/Called/Elect, here is how to escape the coming "hour of Temptation" 1) Come out of Babylon, 2) join the Church of Philadelphia, 3) be ready to flee when your call comes, To the Christians, additionally, Remember God's Seventh Day Sabbath Commandment. for Healing go to John 14:13; use the Son's HEBREW name
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Bewy
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He stated the dwell was 45*.
This could be so many thinks:
- water in fuel
- sediment blocking jets in carb
- cam lobes going flat
- ign/electrical.
I am leaning towards electrical. It is also external. Check: plug wires & spark plugs [ or replace ]; inspect dist cap, rotor for carbon tracking; coil; try another points condenser.
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[ATTACH=full]1716022005[/ATTACH]
RustyRatRod
I was born on a Monday. Not last Monday.
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JoinedJun 7, 2010Messages92,092Reaction score79,798LocationGeorgia
I missed that with one big paragraph.
Smart men don't tell you how smart they are. Rich men don't tell you how rich they are. Tough men don't tell you how tough they are. Honest men don't tell you how honest they are. Christian men don't tell you how righteous they are. Con men do.
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Biff
Cheep not easy
JoinedJan 29, 2017Messages9,567Reaction score21,095LocationCanada
Could 5 & 7 be mixed up ? Re check firing order ?
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Oldmanmopar
Going left turning right
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JoinedJan 8, 2009Messages11,401Reaction score9,790LocationDanielsville Pa. 18038
Turn the crankshaft back and forth with the distributor cap off. See how far you can move the crank until the rotor in the distributor moves. That is your chain slack from the nylon teeth coming off the top timing gear. I believe you need a timing chain.
Also pull the oil pan and clean the oil pan pickup screen . All those nylon teeth will be in there. Not cleaning them out will be the downfall of the engine when it loses oil pressure. Very common on slant sixes
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[ATTACH=full]1716022008[/ATTACH]
RustyRatRod
I was born on a Monday. Not last Monday.
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I've never seen a slant 6 with a number 7.
Smart men don't tell you how smart they are. Rich men don't tell you how rich they are. Tough men don't tell you how tough they are. Honest men don't tell you how honest they are. Christian men don't tell you how righteous they are. Con men do.
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my68barracuda
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Yep, that’s it,
That darn pesky # 7 plug has baffled more than one slant six owner.
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[ATTACH=full]1716022010[/ATTACH]
my68barracuda
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Just saying the problem did not start with the replacement of the points and condenser, it is firing through the exhaust with the new and old set.
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junkyardhero
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yes, but upon replacing the points and condenser the problem got worse.
the new points and condenser have exacerbated the problem. are they now functioning properly and exposing another underlying problem or were they not right to begin with and the OP just copied what was seen there and made it worse with new parts?
either way, I'd be running that off an auxiliary fuel tank (nurse bottle) to eliminate the possibility of contaminated/poor quality fuel before running up the diagnostic tree.
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[ATTACH=full]1716022011[/ATTACH]
Murray
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Spark plug wires.
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[ATTACH=full]1716022012[/ATTACH]
slantsixdan
=..=
JoinedJan 7, 2007Messages7,114Reaction score2,666LocationVancouver BC
You might have ignition issues as well, but if you're getting pops out the exhaust, especially from an old motor that's been sitting for prolonged periods, I think you're looking at one or more stuck valves. Less popping at idle/more popping with increasing RPM because the faster the engine runs, the less time there is for the valve to close, so a sluggish one will make itself more and more known at higher and higher engine speed. "Until the popping stops" the valve eventually loosens up enough to work enough better to keep the intake charge in the cylinder rather than spitting it out into the exhaust. You don't necessarily have to pull the head; go at it this way.
As for the ignition:
10° BTDC is a little much. 2.5° is the spec; they'll usually run very well at 5° to 7° as long as there's not too much carbon in the chambers and the spark plugs aren't too hot. Find tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this post.
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[ATTACH=full]1716022013[/ATTACH]
halifaxhops
It's going to get stupid around here!
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JoinedJan 20, 2014Messages76,792Reaction score49,546LocationHoppyworld, PA
OK new points and condensers just suck, check them first. Then firing order and timing. Then like Dan said look at the valves and the adjustment. After all that run a compression check to ensure it is somewhat even compression in all cylendars.
Last edited: Friday at 5:49 AM
When we don't know the answer to a question, we always provide an answer to a question for which we do know the answer
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[ATTACH=full]1716022014[/ATTACH]
Bill Boz
Active Member
JoinedNov 25, 2021Messages30Reaction score41LocationHenderson, NC
Thanks for all the replies. I’ll check compression, while the plugs are out, I’ll pull the distributor so that I can get at the screw underneath, currently the distributor is retarded as much as possible. I’ll also recheck the timing mark with the piston stop, and try to see how much play there is in the timing chain.
I think part of the problem with diagnosis is that it gets much worse when the engine is thoroughly warmed up. The popping doesn’t happen at idle, is most noticeable when just starting out, or when additional throttle is applied, each time the peddle is pushed down, it gives out a pop, generally runs best at higher speed (45 to 55). I have had the feeling, that the engine is using a lot of fuel. Although I’ve put about 10 gal of fuel in the tank, it might still have some bad gas on board.
I’ll get back with my findings
Thanks
Bill
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[ATTACH=full]1716022015[/ATTACH]
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
FABO Gold Member
JoinedJan 19, 2014Messages23,433Reaction score10,705LocationSouth-Central Manitoba,Canada, 900ftelevation
This could be part of the problem. I say part because;
1) when you change the point-gap, the timing changes. And the idle-speed usually changes as well.
2) If you reset the idlespeed, this sometimes, depending on which way it went, upsets the synchronization of the Idle-discharge port to the transfer port.
3) with retarded timing, and a rich idle-mixture, the A/F mixture may not finish burning in the chamber. If when it exits the chamber and enters the exhaust system, it finds fresh air in there, it will flame up and pop.
4) if your vacuum advance can is working, and you (or someone) has plumbed it to full-time manifold vacuum, then it will be difficult if not impossible to set the timing to the factory spec. If you manage to set the timing to say 5* in this mode, then whenever you step on the gas and the vacuum falls, then the V-can will drop out, and your ignition timing can become severely retarded. Which takes you back to #3 above. If you intended to use the Vcan in this mode; you gotta set the base-timing with the Vcan disconnected.
To the Believers/Called/Elect, here is how to escape the coming "hour of Temptation" 1) Come out of Babylon, 2) join the Church of Philadelphia, 3) be ready to flee when your call comes, To the Christians, additionally, Remember God's Seventh Day Sabbath Commandment. for Healing go to John 14:13; use the Son's HEBREW name
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[ATTACH=full]1716022016[/ATTACH]
Sdriche
Well-Known Member
JoinedOct 17, 2021Messages136Reaction score68LocationGarnet valley, pa
Had a similar issue and it turned out to be swapped spark plug wires. Verify firing order.....and plug wires. My rich condition actually loaded up the muffler and blew it apart like a bomb.
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[ATTACH=full]1716022017[/ATTACH]
barbee6043
barbee 6043
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JoinedJul 20, 2008Messages18,131Reaction score7,001LocationShepherd, Texas ( SE Tx)
Maybe everythng needs a good soak in Seafoam???
No matter where you go.....there ya are!
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[ATTACH=full]1716022018[/ATTACH]
Bill Boz
Active Member
JoinedNov 25, 2021Messages30Reaction score41LocationHenderson, NC
Wow, all of this information is a lot to absorb.
Today I pulled the plugs and distributor (needed to center the bottom screw). I noticed what looked like some carbon scoring inside the cap so ordered a new cap and rotor. I then did a compression test. 4 cylinders read 130 lbs 1 @ 135 lbs and one at 127lbs.
I then tried to find TDC again, ( it did slip)so I could check the timing. I put everything back together with the new cap and rotor. The wires and plugs are all new. I noted that all plugs looked identical and clean.
I then started the engine, it popped like crazy, but settled down enough to adjust the timing. The timing light and mark are steady, and increase smoothly with increased engine speed. I set timing with the vacuum hose removed.
I don’t know much about slant 6’s but I would expect a very smooth idle. I think this engine is a bit rough, I pulled each spark plug wire, one at a time and found that each one caused the idle speed to decrease and the engine to idle rougher, except for #3 which seemed to cause little change. #3 is also the cylindar that had 127 lbs compression. (Still within specs).
I took the car for a spin. It still popped when I first accelerated but is smoothed out and accelerated up to about 50 mph. When I took my foot off the gas it started popping as the car slowed down.
Since the popping seems to happen when the accelerator pump is engaged, could I have to much fuel? It’s so hard to tell wether it’s a fuel or ignition problem.
I really appreciate all of you input
Bill
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halifaxhops
It's going to get stupid around here!
FABO Gold Member
JoinedJan 20, 2014Messages76,792Reaction score49,546LocationHoppyworld, PA
127 is not bad at all. OK seems #3 is the issue. Chek the valve adjustment next.
When we don't know the answer to a question, we always provide an answer to a question for which we do know the answer
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Biff
Cheep not easy
JoinedJan 29, 2017Messages9,567Reaction score21,095LocationCanada
Well chit missed the part it was a slant my bad
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I think you have alot of things going on and sadly you can not trust new parts to function correctly now adays.
popping in the exhaust is from a rich or unburnt fuel in the pipe. Check your gap on the plugs are the wires seated in cap correctly, is the rotor in contact with the cap, does the rotor look like its pitted on the end of the pointer. Check the primary voltage and secondary voltage of the coil , is oil leaking from the coil? Start the car at night with lights off and see if wires might be arcing to ground. check the distributer the bushing could be worn to the point your dwell will be all over the place, Pull number one plug and ground it and check color of spark. What is the state of your battery and your alternator , do your headlight change in brightness with change in rpm, does your ammeter gauge jump and return to center when you start your car? once you rule out electrical than its mechanical than fuel.
did you pull all the plugs and have throttle wide open when you did the compression check?
have you removed the valve cover to confirm all valves are opening and check the valve lash, this would be the time to do so.
All this really is after thoughts if your balancer has slipped your wasting your time with all the rest R&R that sob pull the cover and for piece of mind R&R the timing chain and sprockets while its open. When you know 100% that TDC is TDC than you can start accurately diagnose what going on.
Grab a vacuum gauge and hook it up to manifold sourced vacuum port it will tell you if valves are stuck if your exhaust is plugged and use it when setting your idle mixture and idle speed. another test which I feel is more accurate than a compression test is a leak down test. get a tester if you don't already own one.
check your filters and take a sample of your fuel before the pump and check for quality of fuel and any contaminants.
check for vacuum leaks at carb and intake and check your vacuum lines for cracks are brittleness, does your heat riser valve work ( sorry I am not sure if you have one) Do you smell gas ever in or around your car or when driving, are you seeing clouds of smoke blue or white when starting the car, what's your coolant look or smell like any signs of oil or smell like exhaust when you open the radiator cap. keep it simple don't assume catastrophic failure, once your have a place that you know 100% is working properly than you start working from there, finish 100% and check results before you go to the next thing. Last thing you want is to change a dozen things and now its worse etc. change plugs start engine, change cap and rotor points and condensor, start car. Be methodilical in your approach and keep a note pad to document findings before and after you change thigs around. I would start with your timing chain before it goes and you end up with a junked slant 6
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Many thanks
Bill
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