It's Here It's Here

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marksmopar1 said:
Nice!!
Curious... Does the pump need to be the in-tank variety or can an external pump with return line work just as well? IM thinking on my 69 Dart, running the 71 tank with return line available and external pump. Any thoughts, maybe someone has the answer here :)
Thanks!, IM going to follow this one!
Click to expand...

Their kits work with an external pump as well as their "Fuel Command Center" See this Thread
 
Did that thing cost as much as what I spend on entire engines?
I'm jealous and would like to try it on my daily driver.
But I'm afraid that would be one more thing that might strand me when the voodoo electronics crap out.
For example right now, as I type, my auto store ECUs keep failing.
I'm driving on old junkyard ECUs that I've saved over the years till I get another new one that will run the car.
I'm keeping the old ECUs for emergency "spares".
(That's one reason I don't run an MSD on my driver. Try and swap that on the side of the road.)
Plus the manufactures won't sponsor my car and give me the free stuff like on Roadkill.
 
adriver said:
Did that thing cost as much as what I spend on entire engines?
I'm jealous and would like to try it on my daily driver.
But I'm afraid that would be one more thing that might strand me when the voodoo electronics crap out.
For example right now, as I type, my auto store ECUs keep failing.
I'm driving on old junkyard ECUs that I've saved over the years till I get another new one that will run the car.
I'm keeping the old ECUs for emergency "spares".
(That's one reason I don't run an MSD on my driver. Try and swap that on the side of the road.)
Plus the manufactures won't sponsor my car and give me the free stuff like on Roadkill.
Click to expand...

They cost a bit and are fairly new to have any good info or feedback on them yet, but what there is out there says people are really happy with them.
The electronics going would suck, but I do like the idea of most of it being inside the body of the unit instead of having to find a place to mount up more stuff.
Probably fairly easy to change the controller out if needed since it right there under a cover and unplugs.


I have HEI in my car and keep an extra ECU in the trunk in a smallish cardboard box elastic tied to my filler tube so it doesn't all go everywhere in the trunk and then down in the lower quarter panels.
Never needed to change so far in 4 years of daily driving, but it's only a little 2x3 and 3/8 thick plastic thing so why not.
 
marksmopar1 said:
Nice!!
Curious... Does the pump need to be the in-tank variety or can an external pump with return line work just as well? IM thinking on my 69 Dart, running the 71 tank with return line available and external pump. Any thoughts, maybe someone has the answer here :)
Thanks!, IM going to follow this one!
Click to expand...
They make an external pump that I was going to go with but then I read that if ran a return to the tank that I need it to watch where the return came into the tank as it could aerate the fuel and cause air to get into the system. Also I heard that when you didn't have a proper fuel injection tank that you needed to keep the tank about half-full to insure that you didn't starve the system for fuel during turns and fast acceleration. After adding up all of the cost associated with frame rail mounted fuel pump and the associated hardware needed it seemed logical to go with a tank that was set up for fuel injection and a in tank pump (plus the silver powder coating looks bitchin')
 
adriver said:
Did that thing cost as much as what I spend on entire engines?
I'm jealous and would like to try it on my daily driver.
But I'm afraid that would be one more thing that might strand me when the voodoo electronics crap out.
For example right now, as I type, my auto store ECUs keep failing.
I'm driving on old junkyard ECUs that I've saved over the years till I get another new one that will run the car.
I'm keeping the old ECUs for emergency "spares".
(That's one reason I don't run an MSD on my driver. Try and swap that on the side of the road.)
Plus the manufactures won't sponsor my car and give me the free stuff like on Roadkill.
Click to expand...
LOL I know what you mean, sure would be nice to have somebody sponsor me. And I fought with this for a little while but The Lure of being able to set up my own timing curve and have timing be pulled out during boost was just too much to pass up. So we will see what happens, buckle up and grab some popcorn, I'm sure this will be entertaining.
 
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And so it starts......The Dart patiently waiting it's upgrade to fuel injection. At least it's being patient, no so much for me, I'm PSYCHED!
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Emptying out the trunk, why do I have 8 folding chairs in there?
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One last look at the engine before disassembly.
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I'm gonna miss the chrome bowls but not much else about a carb.
 
69_340_GTS said:
Do yourself a favor and get rid of that sending unit and buy a linear float model: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cin-sn39t8
that sending unit is a ***** to set up and is highly inaccurate.
Click to expand...

The last thing you want is a LINEAR sending unit.

That is why replacement and universal sending units are inaccurate.

The Original factory sending units are a NON LINEAR design with resistor circuits designd for tank shape and size.

Here is an old post of mine with photos of the two types of resistor circuits.
Non Linear Linear Fuel Sending Unit Difference

The style of sending unit shown in the summit link is also LINEAR. Unless it is designed for the tank it is going in or has some type of calibration circuit built into it, It will only be some what accurate at Empty (73 ohms) an Full (10 ohms).
 
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Old tank out. It sure looks easy when you're looking at the photos but........48 year old tank straps are a bi**h to get off without a lot of cuss words. Word of advice, Tanks Inc does not include the J bolts with the new straps. We had to cut off the straps so that we could work on the straps in the vise. And it goes like this........Wire wheel the threads, apply WD-40, run a die down the treads to the nut and then carefully work the nut back and fort until it his the clean threads and remove. Finally run the die down to the bottom and wire theel the J bolt and nut. Finally a coat of black paint.



.
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The juicy stuff is coming soon, I have to get back out the garage. Lots more pics.
 
here's mine, went with the tanks inc. stuff as well. Just follow the directions on the sender, mine works good, it's slower going up. I found it better to set the pump up for depth, then get the sender in before the pump.

EFI for the Barracuda
 
jaws said:
here's mine, went with the tanks inc. stuff as well. Just follow the directions on the sender, mine works good, it's slower going up. I found it better to set the pump up for depth, then get the sender in before the pump.
Nice Job! I see why you put your sending unit in first, I had a heck of a time putting mine in because the pump was already in place. Wish I would have saw your post before I started. Thanks for the heads up anyway.

EFI for the Barracuda
Click to expand...
 
My buddy Larry made a nice bracket for the vent. We mounted it high in between the upper shock bolts.
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The pump is installed.

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So, I got the system up and running last night. After repairing a couple of fuel leaks I found that the system was idling very rough. After checking the Diagnostics I am finding that the RPMs are all over the place and it's setting a fault code. I have read somewhere that there needs to be a shielded cable used instead of the regular wire for the tach signal coming off of my CDI box. If anybody knows where the thread is that talks about this I would appreciate some guidance. Still have a lot more pictures to post
 
superchargeddrt said:
So, I got the system up and running last night. After repairing a couple of fuel leaks I found that the system was idling very rough. After checking the Diagnostics I am finding that the RPMs are all over the place and it's setting a fault code. I have read somewhere that there needs to be a shielded cable used instead of the regular wire for the tach signal coming off of my CDI box. If anybody knows where the thread is that talks about this I would appreciate some guidance. Still have a lot more pictures to post
Click to expand...
Look in the FItech tuning thread.


FITECH EFI TUNING tips, info sharing, ideas, settings, etc...
 
Before
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After
This installation took me 2 days. I still have issues to iron out.
The idle is erratic the RPMs moving up and down by 100. I went out today (day 3) and adjusted the IAC steps. They were at 109 and they should be at 3-10. This appeared to help (now at 7). I also adjusted the Hot Cranking (at 170* F) from 0 to -20. This definitely helped with the warm starts. I will adjust the cold start (65* F) tomorrow.

I haven't taken the Dart for a ride yet and it's killing me. After I put a ton of time into sealing my hood scoop to the carb I now find that even though the Fitech EFI throttle body is the same height as the Holly 850 double pumper the air cleaner base sits higher. So now I have to find a air cleaner that sits a maximum of 2 1/4 inches from the top of the throttle body.

I am going to take more pictures and video of the system idling and on the road.
 
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Okay guys,
Sorry I haven't posted for a while but I just got the air cleaner modified so that it (just barely) clears the hood scoop. It's not my favorite choice for an air cleaner but it fits (pictures coming). I had the Dart out for the first time today and all I can say is WOW! The idle is smooth (well smooth as you can expect with this cam), throttle response is instant and it starts right up hot or cold. I had it out today for about 45 minutes and I didn't want to get out of the car but the rain was coming (figures). Another benefit is that it's running cooler (something that has plagued me for years) I promise that video is coming as well, Stay Tuned
Glenn
 
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