it's my father's 76 dodge, he bought new. am keeping it to honor his memory. he loved it

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Simon Rahbani

Simon Rahbani

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it's my father's 76 dodge, he bought it new. am keeping it to honor his memory. he loved it. i need few things to fix so it will be as good as it was when he bought it.
i need the gear selector indicator as you call the Prindle. the picture is only for reference, maybe it is not the right part number.
as i also need a fuel cluster. a 2 inch round after market one. why i need that, because i made a center dash with 4 gauges, only the aftermarket i bought for the fuel didn't not really work properly.
shift pin indicator.jpg
 
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Welcome from Texas. The parts you are seeking should be available from one of the members here.
 
Welcome!! Keeping his car running is a great way to honor your father.

Post a "Wanted " ad for the parts you need if you haven't already.
 
Welcome to the site !!! Sorry about the loss of your Dad! Sure looks like a cool car!
I have a '76 as well, but it didn't receive the care in it's life as what your Dad gave your car.
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As to the fuel gauge, several outfits market aftermarket gauges, but a couple things:

First, you must make certain fuel sender is working correctly. Empty the tank and the sender wire on an ohmeter should show about 74 ohms or more when clear empty (See figures in yellow in photo)

You can estimate tank 1/2 full which might be "a guess" and sender should show around 23 ohms, and when full, around 10 ohms

BE AWARE that different gauges react to different senders from different OEM tanks. So research the guage you buy (Autometer, whoever) and get one that covers the ohms range shown.

Also be aware that some gauges have THREE electrical terminals. Sometimes the 3rd terminal is not obvious, because it may be via the gauge metal case. That terminal MUST be grounded. Those types gauges are called a "bridge" circuit.

Also, there is a device called "meter match" which is installed between the gauge and sender. It scales the sender output to cause the gauge to read more accurately. You program it to "be so."

TechnoVersions - MeterMatch for Analog Gauge Correction

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What is the manufacturer and model of the fuel gauge you have now?
 
318willrun said:
Welcome to the site !!! Sorry about the loss of your Dad! Sure looks like a cool car!
I have a '76 as well, but it didn't receive the care in it's life as what your Dad gave your car.
View attachment 1715886591
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He loved that car. He bought many other during his life. But he couldn't let go this one. And that's what am trying to do, just keeping it in mint condition

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67Dart273 said:
As to the fuel gauge, several outfits market aftermarket gauges, but a couple things:

First, you must make certain fuel sender is working correctly. Empty the tank and the sender wire on an ohmeter should show about 74 ohms or more when clear empty (See figures in yellow in photo)

You can estimate tank 1/2 full which might be "a guess" and sender should show around 23 ohms, and when full, around 10 ohms

BE AWARE that different gauges react to different senders from different OEM tanks. So research the guage you buy (Autometer, whoever) and get one that covers the ohms range shown.

Also be aware that some gauges have THREE electrical terminals. Sometimes the 3rd terminal is not obvious, because it may be via the gauge metal case. That terminal MUST be grounded. Those types gauges are called a "bridge" circuit.

Also, there is a device called "meter match" which is installed between the gauge and sender. It scales the sender output to cause the gauge to read more accurately. You program it to "be so."

TechnoVersions - MeterMatch for Analog Gauge Correction

View attachment 1715886596

What is the manufacturer and model of the fuel gauge you have now?
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Hi sir. The sender is working perfectly. I tested it on a ohmmeter. And the readings where right. I think the problem is with the gauge itself. Knowing that i bought 3 complete dash clusters on ebay, a d all the fuel gauges on them didn't work. Am going to try your way about the meter match if i can't solve the problem soon with the aftermarket one. Because that one and all the ones i tested stay still and read 3/4 of the fuel tank all the time. The picture is with ignition off this is why it reads empty.

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Welcome to the board. I am just getting clarity about the Gauge. Are you looking for an aftermarket Gauge because of the results you have gotten from buying used gauges or is it the resource in your country to try another used unit?

Sorry about the loss of your Dad- mine is my best friend also....
 
SLOPAR72 said:
Welcome to the board. I am just getting clarity about the Gauge. Are you looking for an aftermarket Gauge because of the results you have gotten from buying used gauges or is it the resource in your country to try another used unit?

Sorry about the loss of your Dad- mine is my best friend also....
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how lucky a person can be, when his parents are also his best friends
 
Simon Rahbani said:
how lucky a person can be, when his parents are also his best friends
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Yes, so I can't imagine your new life without Dad.... With that being said if you want to try another gauge I have a complete Instrument cluster out of a 73 A body. It was in working condition when pulled but were also talking 30 years ago. If you want to do the leg work and verify it works with a 76 model (someone will surely chime in) then you can have it if you will pay the shipping cost. I'm in Virginia (USA) so there's that to deal with.....

If you figure it out and can be a fit, message me and we'll go from there....

Again, sorry for your loss....
JW
 
SLOPAR72 said:
Yes, so I can't imagine your new life without Dad.... With that being said if you want to try another gauge I have a complete Instrument cluster out of a 73 A body. It was in working condition when pulled but were also talking 30 years ago. If you want to do the leg work and verify it works with a 76 model (someone will surely chime in) then you can have it if you will pay the shipping cost. I'm in Virginia (USA) so there's that to deal with.....

If you figure it out and can be a fit, message me and we'll go from there....

Again, sorry for your loss....
JW
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Thank you so much JW. you're really a good guy. i like it here because most of you are so warm and very nice. i will honestly see if i can't find an aftermarket gauge that fit on the central dash i made. i will sure get back to you JW. again thank you

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1976 has some unique wiring, but as far as I know the fuel gauge is the same as previous years.

There's a couple of ways to test the gage alone.
I think the most complete test is to connect the gage to a 10 to 74 ohm resistor or variable resistor and supply it with power from the instrument voltage regulator.

If the instrument voltage regulator is unavailable or not safely accessible, then some other 5 to 6 volt power supply will be needed.

Thermal-Electric Gauges (Session 227) from the Master Technician's Service Conference

Here are some easier preliminary tests:
Mike69cuda said:
You might measure you gauges with an ohm meter before you pass judgement. You should get about 13-20 ohms if they are good
Click to expand...

RedFish said:
A 6 volt high amp lantern battery could cause a crusty gauge to do what it wouldn't do in the car with proper input. 3 volts should get needle movement a tad more than half the range.
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RedFish said:
Mattax said:
So it is safe to put 3 volt power source directly across the gauges with no additional load?
Click to expand...
Yep, 2 double As to make up a 3 volt supply.
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