Just another cam pick question.

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just a tidbit from my 37 plus years of racing experience ...the camshaft is the MOST important part of any motor ....it can do anything you need it to if you have the right person design it....again in my experience ...HAROLD BROOKSHIRE is the best cam designer in country hands down ....he owned ultra dyne camshafts for years....i won two nascar national championships and 23 races in two seasons with his cams ...zero before his cams in 10 years trying with only 5 wins ...with the same basic engine package all that time because of the rules just the wrong cam ...well back to your post.. yes a cam change will wake that thing right up ....HAROLD designed the voodoo line of cams for lunati when he was doing r@d work for the holley group...with the mopar " lifter " design which is very import ...there #703 or if you have enough valve spring #704 will make a HUGE differance from that old style mopar cam ...they were good in there day but the cnc computer designed lobes off of the lifter cams of today are night and day better ...for 175 bucks or so with lifters it"s the cheapest and easiest way to wake it up ...then tune it with timing and carb and look out ....install it straight up on the 703 ..advance the #704.... 4 degrees is what i would do ...if you have a little larger budget you can call HAROLD direct and have him build you a custom cam ...then have it ground at howard cams ...they have all the custom camshaft company (harold"s old ) cnc machines and most of his lobe profiles ...ask for mike at howards he ran the deal at custom cams ....hope this help's ....need more info just ask ...merry xmas to all...modracerx
 
modracerx said:
just a tidbit from my 37 plus years of racing experience ...the camshaft is the MOST important part of any motor
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I respectfully disagree. As Jim Leroy is so fond of saying. "It's all in the heads"
 
I have some Laroy ported heads on a 340 with a mp292/509 cam n the car pulls pretty hard and sounds nasty !!
 
aracer01 said:
I found this cam that looks to keep a higher cylinder pressure for a low compression 1972-up LA 340. Any comments, please?
I have the 108* 484 lift Purple from 1978 and it's got 125 lbs/ each, too low and I think it's due to the 108* separation. I does run 12.80 et @108mph.
http://www.competitionproducts.com/...94-110-LS/productinfo/CL711381-10/#.VJvGX_80k
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Your current camshaft has about 241 degrees of duration at .050 lift..the howards you linked to has 208/214 degrees of duration at .050.....the howards will idle like a stock cam....might bump up the cranking compression...and will likely lose HP in the top end...due to less duration..
 
aracer01 said:
I found this cam that looks to keep a higher cylinder pressure for a low compression 1972-up LA 340. Any comments, please?
I have the 108* 484 lift Purple from 1978 and it's got 125 lbs/ each, too low and I think it's due to the 108* separation. I does run 12.80 et @108mph.
http://www.competitionproducts.com/...94-110-LS/productinfo/CL711381-10/#.VJvGX_80k
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The 108 separation is a moot point, it's where the cam is installed. That same cam on a 114 separation has even less compression. The 114 has less overlap and will have lower cranking compression, ummm wait, that's opposite from everything you've ever been told... Cranking compression is based on when the intake valve closes, not overlap.

If you have adequate valve to piston clearance, install that 108 LSA 484 cam at 100 in a low compression 340 and watch what it does... :) BTDT.
 
sorry rusty but i think you missed my point ....the cam is the brain of the motor and like i said it can make it do what it want's ....you build the cam to the combo you have ...he has a decent set of heads and a good platform to work with ....that cam he has is not the best cam he can get ...its the cheapest way to make what he has work better....175 bucks vs 1000 plus to port his heads and after the port job it will need a new cam anyway to get the most out of the heads ...lol...i do agree you need a good set of heads to make REAL power.... the set i had on the motor i was talking about were 10,000 dollar chapman racing heads made great power but did not accelerate !!!!...that's the key... the point is get from a to b before the other guy... the right cam designed around the heads (and the rest of the motor) tells the motor how to do that with everything else being equal ....
 
I'm still in money saving mode since I plan on doing a few other things when I pull this motor. When the time comes I'll call around to Hughes and comp and some other companies and get a recommendation.
 
Before I spent a dollar on a camshaft, that converter would be in the trash...

Do you know how much it's slipping? I've seen those B/M and others shelf stuff slip as much as 25% in high gear. You aren't going anywhere with that type of performance from a converter.

The engine combo, AS IT SITS, is capable of a 11.80-12.00 time slip.
 
crackedback said:
Before I spent a dollar on a camshaft, that converter would be in the trash...

Do you know how much it's slipping? I've seen those B/M and others shelf stuff slip as much as 25% in high gear. You aren't going anywhere with that type of performance from a converter.

The engine combo, AS IT SITS, is capable of a 11.80-12.00 time slip.
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Best post on here yet it's surrounded by cam suggestions. LOL
 
RustyRatRod said:
Best post on here yet it's surrounded by cam suggestions. LOL
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No I don't know how much it's slipping. Is there a way to test it without removing it or pulling out the transmission?

Converter is getting changed. I know the route I want to go on that end but the cam was still up in the air.
 
n.y.340 dart said:
I agree hughes engines has the right cam. Give them a call.
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Take a look at the Howards Cam Catalog...they have a bunch of camshafts based on the 904 lifter....and they are 50 bucks less then Hughes..
 
doogievlg said:
No I don't know how much it's slipping. Is there a way to test it without removing it or pulling out the transmission?

Converter is getting changed. I know the route I want to go on that end but the cam was still up in the air.
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You need to know MPH at 1/4 mile, tire height, gear and engine RPM at stripe.
 
I know all besides rpm. Couldn't I do the same thing just driving down the street though.
 
Did you find out where the camshaft is installed and any valve to piston clearance specs?

You won't get anywhere checking converter slip on the street. Need a clean MPH and tach reading.
 
I kinda skipped all the posts so i apologize if it was brought up already.

I have a very similar combo 360 ede heads, rpm air gap, 750 street hp holley,3.91 gears. I run a comp xe284 cam.Best run was 7.94 at 89mph 1.76 60ft.

My first question would be what converter you're running. I talked to dynamic and they recommend a 4200 9.5".

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d_4bbfP7_qI"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d_4bbfP7_qI[/ame]
 
Hey skep419 thats a sweet combo,eh?
-Only diff to mine is the cam. I run a Hughes 232*.Mine runs 7.92@93, with 3.55s,and a 2.0 60ft, on the worst track you can imagine.I was on the rev limiter almost all the way. I thought I blew a clutch. pulled into the pits for a look see. Nope. Drove an hour home, no problems. Other guys complained about it too.Yeah for sure thats a nice combo.
--Update for skep--
I am currently running a Hughes 232*cam, installed at 2* advance. Ihave a 3.09 low m/t and with the 3.55s thats a 10.97 starter gear. Just right for my combo.Blip the throttle,dump the clutch, and go.Real simple. And I have the GearVendor bringing the cruise Rs down to 2200ish, which is right where the cam starts pulling a good vacuum.I run a minimum of 13* initial timing, 34* all in by 3200ish.A little rich on the idle circuit and sharp accelerator pump.I would gladly run less gear but then the cam is back in low vacuum, inefficient, gas sucking mode.
-For you, all it would take to perk up the 3.23s is a lower first gear and a sharp tune; assuming youre making around 165psi minimum cranking pressure, with those Eddies as I am. Your TC will help with the launch. 3.23 x 2.74(low) x 1.15(TC) =10.18 momentary starter gear.And if your TC stalls around 2400 or better you will be putting more footpounds down than am I. Mine is not a dog, coming right off idle. Theres no reason why yours should be. Even with the 2.45 low it shouldnt be; unless the tune is off, the compression is down,(I run 10.7 with those Eddies and 87/E-10@ .035 quench) or the TC is lazy. The 484 cam is real close to mine. OOPS, I see you have a 727.To get the 2.74 low would require a swap to a 904 based A/T. But Im sure you knew that.
My apologies to the OP for the intrusion.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Hey skep419 thats a sweet combo,eh?
-Only diff to mine is the cam. I run a Hughes 232*.Mine runs 7.92@93, with 3.55s,and a 2.0 60ft, on the worst track you can imagine.I was on the rev limiter almost all the way. I thought I blew a clutch. pulled into the pits for a look see. Nope. Drove an hour home, no problems. Other guys complained about it too.Yeah for sure thats a nice combo.
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I have been thinking about switching to 3.55's to make cruising with the kids more enjoyable. I have a 2nd 742 center section set up with 3.23's and it was a dog out of the whole.
 
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