just got me a '67 Barracuda

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1967cuda

1967cuda

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So, I'm having a lot of trouble getting my 225 /6 to run properly. Here are the symptoms:

Only stays running in park or neutral when idle speed is cranked up, or when engine is cold and choke is closed.
Does not run smoothly, misses unevenly.
Dies when put into gear (automatic), so I have to throw it in neutral when I come to a stop and feather the gas.
Dies when coming to a stop.
Dies when driving slow (5-15 mph).
Runs normal at higher speeds.

Have replaced:
Holley-remanufactured carb. Fuel and air filters.
Spark plugs (0.035), wires, distributor cap and rotor.
Distributor (new points (0.020) & condenser).
I've checked with starting fluid for vacuum leaks all around the intake manifold and carb, as well as the brake-boost vacuum line, and distributor vacuum line.

The old carb was falling apart anyways, so it needed to be replaced regardless. (The brass choke valve shaft broke in half, among other issues).

The old distributor shaft had a lot of side-to-side play, and the cam was well worn, so I was really hoping that was the source of the problem...it was not. I have to adjust the timing to about 20 degrees BTDC for it to even run with the new distributor; it totally dies when I adjust it to 15 or so. I rotated the crank shaft to 0 on the compression stroke of piston #1, and the distributor rotor is pointing at #1 spark plug. I tried removing the distributor and adjusting the rotor to different positions, one spline or two clockwise and counter-clockwise. Nothing.
:sad7:

Any thoughts? The timing chain is the only other thing I can think of that needs attention.

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Have you done a valve adjustment? That seems most likely to me (although remanufactured carbs have a TERRIBLE track record. I made the mistake of buying a reman — car never ran right. Had it rebuilt locally by a reputable shop, and it ran 100% better.)

FYI, Slant Six Dan over on .org sells NEW 1bbls (not reman) for a very reasonable price.

I'd try adjusting the valves first, though.
 
Your PVC valve looks like it could be replaced, and maybe a good cleaning of the oil filler cap (looks like a vented type).

I'm thinking your engine is building up pressure internally...

Both are cheap easy fixes, if they are the root cause of your problem.

But it does sound like you do have some air leak somewhere, carb. base gasket ?

Hope this helps.
 
I noticed in your 2nd picture your air cleaner has a nipple on the side. There should be a rubber hose going from that nipple to a nipple on your oil filler cap if it was a factory cap. Won't make a difference with your problem but thought you'd like to know.
 
My 63 ran about the same way, I adjusted the valves and it ran much better.
Just wash out your filler cap with gas then soap it down and rinse.

The #2 picture is a 66 / in my valiant, Not sure if they vented the 67 or not to the filler cap.
As you can see I changed out the point system to electronic.

Did you say you changed out to a new distributor? at low rpm's it could have to much wobble if its the old one.

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Those re-manufactured carbs SUCK!!!!!!! I bought one and I never got it to work right. I went to a guy on slant6.org and bought an original '65 holley 1920 for $60.00 and it is really old looking too. It literly runs like it is brand new.
 
65 Dartman said:
I noticed in your 2nd picture your air cleaner has a nipple on the side. There should be a rubber hose going from that nipple to a nipple on your oil filler cap if it was a factory cap. Won't make a difference with your problem but thought you'd like to know.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I wondered about that. There's no nipple on my oil cap. But the filter material in it is oil-soaked. Does that mean either the air cleaner housing or the oil cap have been replaced from another model /6? Should I be concerned enough about that to restore it, if so?
 
memike said:
My 63 ran about the same way, I adjusted the valves and it ran much better.
Just wash out your filler cap with gas then soap it down and rinse.

The #2 picture is a 66 / in my valiant, Not sure if they vented the 67 or not to the filler cap.
As you can see I changed out the point system to electronic.

Did you say you changed out to a new distributor? at low rpm's it could have to much wobble if its the old one.
Click to expand...
I replaced the distributor. The old one had a lot of side-to-side wiggle, and the cam was worn pretty well. Only $42 at Schucks.

I've never adjusted valves before, so I'm not going to ask for instructions. I'll have to find some one I know to show me sometime.
 
1967cuda said:
Yeah, I wondered about that. There's no nipple on my oil cap. But the filter material in it is oil-soaked. Does that mean either the air cleaner housing or the oil cap have been replaced from another model /6? Should I be concerned enough about that to restore it, if so?
Click to expand...

The oil cap doesn't need the nipple it was an aftermarket buy and would allow you to use a more open air cleaner style like the one in this picture. It shouldn't have any negative affect as is though. My car was running similar to yours recently part of it was a cracked exhaust manifold the other was a bad carb. So besides replacing /rebuilding your carb check around for intake/exhaust leaks and double check your pcv valve.

Also you might want to move your fuel filter so it isn't sitting directly on the motor like that.

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Realm412 said:
The oil cap doesn't need the nipple it was an aftermarket buy and would allow you to use a more open air cleaner style like the one in this picture. It shouldn't have any negative affect as is though. My car was running similar to yours recently part of it was a cracked exhaust manifold the other was a bad carb. So besides replacing /rebuilding your carb check around for intake/exhaust leaks and double check your pcv valve.

Also you might want to move your fuel filter so it isn't sitting directly on the motor like that.
Click to expand...
Move the fuel filter I did; I took these pictures the day I got the car. Don't know why some one would let the filter set on the engine like that.
 
1967cuda said:
Yeah, I wondered about that. There's no nipple on my oil cap. But the filter material in it is oil-soaked. Does that mean either the air cleaner housing or the oil cap have been replaced from another model /6? Should I be concerned enough about that to restore it, if so?
Click to expand...

I was just looking at my 65 parts catalogue and it lists air cleaners and oil caps for the slant 6 and V8 2 and 4 barrel with and w/o the hose nipple. I think that up through around 66 or maybe 67 (except in CA I believe) the factory oil caps (both painted and chromed) did not have a nipple. I parted out a 66 Dart GT and it had the small slant 6 air cleaner and a factory black oil cap w/o the nipple. My wagon was a CA car until I acquired it and it had the larger air cleaner like yours as well as the factory oil cap with the nipple. I think that the system with the oil fill cap nipple, hose and air cleaner might have been mandatory in CA as part of their smog packages. Both my painted and chrome factory oil fill caps have the work "OIL" on them twice - one is backward from the other.
 
65 Dartman said:
I was just looking at my 65 parts catalogue and it lists air cleaners and oil caps for the slant 6 and V8 2 and 4 barrel with and w/o the hose nipple. I think that up through around 66 or maybe 67 (except in CA I believe) the factory oil caps (both painted and chromed) did not have a nipple. I parted out a 66 Dart GT and it had the small slant 6 air cleaner and a factory black oil cap w/o the nipple. My wagon was a CA car until I acquired it and it had the larger air cleaner like yours as well as the factory oil cap with the nipple. I think that the system with the oil fill cap nipple, hose and air cleaner might have been mandatory in CA as part of their smog packages. Both my painted and chrome factory oil fill caps have the work "OIL" on them twice - one is backward from the other.
Click to expand...


More than likely correct. My original cap and air cleaner can had the hose on it. Something to do with reclaiming exhaust fumes, early smogging in process. Mine were painted black, and the cap also has the word oil on it.
 
vynn3 said:
Ask away! That's what this forum is all about:

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9609&highlight=valve+adjustment+procedure

Don't be intimidated by this (I know I was). It's something that just takes practice, and above all, PATIENCE. Once I got the hang of it, I found valve adjustment very rewarding.
Click to expand...
Well I read your thread-link, and it doesn't sound so bad. It would be nice to see pictures or a video of what they are talking about, though. I'll check Youtube. But if some one here has some pictures....
 
1967cuda said:
Well I read your thread-link, and it doesn't sound so bad. It would be nice to see pictures or a video of what they are talking about, though. I'll check Youtube. But if some one here has some pictures....
Click to expand...

I thought the same thing. But don't be apprehensive — just dive in and DO it. It's part of the slanters' initiation...

Soon enough you'll be a pro! Have fun!
 
I had a slant that ran poorly like that. Turned out to be a cracked intake manifold...


Another one I had ran bad and stalled at lights etc. A jacobs coil and wires fixed it.
 
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