Just Stop it With The Dielectric Grease

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Ant

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Hey you! Yes you... holding that tube of dielectric grease to your spark plug terminal. Stop! No really, that's not where the grease gets applied. Why you ask? Dielectric grease does not actually help with getting a better electrical connection. Yes, that's true, dielectric grease is an insulator, which is meant to seal out moisture and prevent corrosion. You just globbing shmoo on the terminal of the spark plug is increasing the amount of resistance and is not providing protection the correct way. The correct way would be to apply a small amount of dielectric grease to the ribbed part of porcelain on the spark plug so that the plug boot can have a better seal while also reducing the chances of getting stuck on. On other type of connections like those male and female plastic multi-pin electrical connectors, the grease should just be applied to the plastic of the male connector and rubber seals to provide a water resistant connection and not applied to the pins.

There is plenty of misinformation out there on this topic, which people actually believe and then run into trouble. An example I can give is the misinformed snow plow truck operators. I've seen it multiple times, having to wiggle and play with the multi pin plug on the outside snow plow harness to get a better electrical connection because the plow is having issues. Separate the connectors and find that inside where all the pins are is packed with dielectric grease. Issues created because Dan the plow truck driver was told by his buddy Jim Bob that dielectric grease will make the electrical connection better, like it's magic goop that will make more electrical pixies flow. Remember, I said dielectric grease is an insulator, it's non-conductive nature can block the flow of electricity. Welp, Dan doesn't know any better, so he and many other people that believe the same thing and just stuff more dielectric shmoo into the connector, smothering the male and female pins and have fixed nothing. The correct application would be to just apply the dielectric grease to the rubber connectors and not the pins, but it always seems like no one knows that.

I did a quick search and also found misinformation in the media. Yes, I never heard of Hong Teck Hin too.

Screenshot_20250912_190537_Chrome.jpg

I've seen plenty of proof to know that this statement is bullshit.

This I thought was funny, shmoo up the post to make the connection worse. I'm sure once you wiggle and twist the terminal on, enough has been wiped away, but this is still silly.
Screenshot_20250912_190507_Chrome.jpg

Appling the dielectric grease after the terminal is connected to the post is a better idea and can be done with a brush. Although, unless I'm driving a boat at sea, would rather just keep my battery terminals clean.

So, is there any other electrical connections where it is ok to apply dielectric grease? Yes, it can be applied to the outside of exposed metal connections that have already been connected. Another electrical connection that fine is one that is not in use, but needs some protection from the atmosphere on the connector pins, then when ready to use, clean off the grease.

So stop putting dielectric grease in between electrical connections, that's not what it's for.
 
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Thank you thank you thank you.

I actually gobbed dielectric into new spark plug boots. Guess what, no spark.

Cleaned it all out and read the directions and reassembled fired right up.
 
I would NOT use DG around high tension wires...or spark plugs. It attracts airborn dust. Depending on how much pollutant is in the air, it can form a conductive path & bleed off spark current.
 
Same with thermal paste. Use as little as possible to fill the voids not like your frosting a cake.
The best thermal conductor I've found for computer builds.
ONE drop, about 1/16"-1/8" across. That's it. Period.
Follow the instructions and you're good.
1757742322427.png
 
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I thought there were two kinds of greases.

One that is for conducting electricity and keeps corrosion away

Another that doesn’t conduct and keeps corrosion away.

They use those two kinds in electrical utility connections and equipment.
 
A word of advise offered in the kindest manner, Give up now. If you think you are young enough and will blow your horn loud and long enough you would change this world you are mistaken. I tried for 20 years to show and tell a similar truth. Made no difference. Not even in this tiny segment of my world. Even the better educated logical minded ignore us and continue to propagate the bogus information Jim Bob spouted before us.
I will spout this truth, One voice can' not change the world. It's a fool that thinks he can. In regards to the forum members reading me, I recall a Foreigner song lyric, I'm a fool for you anyway.
 
I don't know, but this just felt like something I needed to let out. Too many times I've seen this shmoo stuffed in places it should not be. Even auto techs use it incorrectly. To tell you the truth, I put my spark plug boots on dry.
 
Good info . I learned this years ago and think of it every time I reach for it.
 
You must use all 12oz in the tube or the warranty expires.

12/8=1.5 oz per plug. More smmmmoooze please. LMAO! That’s science! :rofl:

Good article- and yes also I did not see about the guys who put it in the cap sockets as well. Nothing burns up a cap faster than no where for the spark to go.
 

The correct way would be to apply a small amount of dielectric grease to the ribbed part of porcelain on the spark plug so that the plug boot
Those were the instructions that used to come in the kits which included a small plastic packet of the stuff.

I fell into this trap (trick of thinking if its good for A it must be good for B) until seeing this.
1757767351595.png

(That's a connector for a replacement F*rd Duraspark on my AMC Jeep)

Clearly not moisture resisting!

Here's the bulkhead connector on the same vehicle. It was filled by the factory with a dark brown
moisture resisting grease. Terminals all look pretty good.
1757767523242.png


Posted these photos before but thought its worth reposting here.

Here's how I'd summarize it.
The dielectric grease is for resisting high voltage. If not used, the possible issue is carbon track.
The other components the main issue we're trying to head off is corrosion. Use moisture resisting grease to for this job. Insulation to prevent shorts should be provided by the connector and the wire support.
 
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Those were the instructions that used to come in the kits which included a small plastic packet of the stuff.

I fell into this trap (trick of thinking if its good for A it must be good for B) until seeing this.
View attachment 1716454461
(That's a connector for a replacement F*rd Duraspark on my AMC Jeep)

Clearly not moisture resisting!

Here's the bulkhead connector on the some vehicle. It was filled by the factory with a dark brown
moisture resisting grease. Terminals all look pretty good.
View attachment 1716454462

Posted these photos before but thought its worth reposting here.

Here's how I'd summarize it.
The dielectric grease is for resisting high voltage. If not used, the possible issue is carbon track.
The other components the main issue we're trying to head off is corrosion. Use moisture resisting grease to for this job. Insulation to prevent shorts should be provided by the connector and the wire support.
Why not put a grease zerk on the bulkhead connector. :rofl:
1757768826878.png
 
I glob Permatex Dielectric Grease on spark plug boots and electrical connections and has worked well for me? Are all dielectric greases the same?
 
Those were the instructions that used to come in the kits which included a small plastic packet of the stuff.

I fell into this trap (trick of thinking if its good for A it must be good for B) until seeing this.
View attachment 1716454461
(That's a connector for a replacement F*rd Duraspark on my AMC Jeep)

Clearly not moisture resisting!

Here's the bulkhead connector on the some vehicle. It was filled by the factory with a dark brown
moisture resisting grease. Terminals all look pretty good.
View attachment 1716454462

Posted these photos before but thought its worth reposting here.

Here's how I'd summarize it.
The dielectric grease is for resisting high voltage. If not used, the possible issue is carbon track.
The other components the main issue we're trying to head off is corrosion. Use moisture resisting grease to for this job. Insulation to prevent shorts should be provided by the connector and the wire support.
Looks like wide blade terminals in that bulkhead connector, due to the design of the male and female terminals the grease probably gets scraped off as the terminals go into each other. So with those style connections it's probably not as much of an issue, just work the connector in and out for a better connection if you have too.

I probably should have mentioned some styles of terminals that you could get away with, but it was late and I figured some people will fill in the gaps.

Anyway, the issues I've seen are with the looser fitting bullet style short an long terminals and other very small and skinny terminals of similar designs. These connectors with tiny bullet terminals can a PIA to clean out sometimes.
 
I glob Permatex Dielectric Grease on spark plug boots and electrical connections and has worked well for me? Are all dielectric greases the same?
Boots are fine. If the dielectric grease is wiped off the electrical connections or has a terminal that scrapes itself into the other terminal it may be fine after being pulled in and out. Just don't have it in between electrical connections.
 
Some of the De-oxit products include a corrosion resisting product in their formulation. That's probably better to rely on in general. Driving through streams, backing into a water to pull boat, or if the manufacture didn't use a seal (example) but used a water resisting grease are probably the exceptions.
 
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