KA-thunk

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Gadabout

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The 3 speed original tranny on the '60 Val winds up pretty high between 1 and 2, 2 and 3, and sort of slams into gear with a ka-thunk. I lessen this by letting off the gas at a lower rate of speed and pausing until the transmission finds the next higher gear, with less noise and jarring.

I don't mind living with it, as I am not interested in rabbit starts. The issue is what am I looking at? Is this just the noises of an old car, or is it a death noise?
 
the stock trans should shift smoother than the legs on the checkstand girl down at the piggly wiggly.

me thinks you needs a service. or maybe just some fluid.
 
Could be a poorly adjusted kickdown that is pushed too far back (towards the firewall) for a given throttle position. Post a pic of the setup?
 

Change the fluid. Back off on the throttle pressure. Or could be Line pressure is to high. (Allen bolt on the valve body) If your shifting it manually it will have overlap if your starting in low/1st on the gear selector .
Pull out with the lever in drive and then put the shift lever to low after the car starts moving. You'll find that it will shift different manually if you do this. High Line pressure will cause your symptom. I had a truck like that and it really clunked into the next gear if you left off the throttle to much as it was ready to shift.
 
If it is a 3 speed auto from 1960; isn’t that a cast iron with dual pumps (front and rear)? Not the tf we assume it is?
That is IF RRR is correct after the coin flip?
 
That's what I was thinking, IF it turns out to be an automatic.
I had to walk the boys at the shop how to gently shift out of park to engage D. Sorry for delay, was working a string of graves.

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All the fluids got changed, and as suggested she does shift substantially smoother now with out the jarring "ka-thunk." By releasing the accelerator just before each shift, she drops into gear almost seamlessly, as well.

Thank you for all these useful replies. She is a 3 speed auto, BTW. Sorry to mention that earlier!
 
All six, and idles smooth. Have no indication of a misfire, but it is an interesting question. I will get a picture of the firewall to see the linkage set up. Right now she is in the paint/upholstery shop. (Getting the whole shebang, including engine well and minor rust repair for 6K, which doesn't seem like a whole lot in this day and age. All refurbished interior.
 
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I had to walk the boys at the shop how to gently shift out of park to engage D. Sorry for delay, was working a string of graves.

View attachment 1716250257
How many cylinders are actually working, and how well.
Idles smooth, powers up sweetly, no valve clatter, no blue smoke.

Update: She's been sitting in the paint and upholstery shop for about a month now. They got her sanded down and are soon to give her a coat of Cherry Red. It kind of reminds me of the Rolling Stones' "You Can't Always Get What You Want." The tube radio has been restored and is awaiting installation.

I was thinking of Sea Foam green with a green interior, but the guy who does this gave me his two cents, and I told him to run with it—just don't make her a low rider (I admire low riders, but not her, thank you).

Tranny shifts a lot smoother since the fluids changed, and if I release the accelerator at the top of the RPM cycle before she shifts, she drops quietly into second and third without fuss. If that is what it takes, so be it. One cannot horse an antique around.

One odd issue that has turned up is that the battery drains flat overnight, and it is a fairly new battery. The ammeter shows a charge for sure, but when she sits overnight, something is draining it out. Do you have any ideas about where to start looking?
 
With the Ignition key in the off position, AFAIK, there are only two circuits still able to function,
1) is the alternator, which is live from battery to the Diode Tree, inside the alternator. If a diode is bad, it will drain the battery thru the case.
2) is the Lighting circuit which includes the brake-lights.
 
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