[Found!] Kelsey hayes rotor
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Rock auto
Use the part number to find local.
Centric Parts 121.63005 Centric C-Tek Standard Brake Rotors | Summit Racing
Use the part number to find local.
Centric Parts 121.63005 Centric C-Tek Standard Brake Rotors | Summit Racing
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no, it's two piece.
if you don't have it, go to mymopar.com and download the FSM for your car. it will have the exploded view, procedure and assembly torque specs.
Service Manuals – MyMopar
mymopar.com
1970 plymouth service manual about 1/2 way down the page.
any of the manuals from 65~72 will have the service information on the KH 4 pots, but best to have the year you're working on, or one that's close.
https://www.mymopar.com/downloads/servicemanuals/1967_Dart_Coronet_Charger_Service_Manual.zip
All the manuals are compressed in ZIP format.
If you don't allow popups that might cause an issue.
You have to download the file the extract the PDF.
Easiest done on a pc
All the manuals are compressed in ZIP format.
If you don't allow popups that might cause an issue.
You have to download the file the extract the PDF.
Easiest done on a pc
Even though the Kelsey-Hayes rotor and hub were a two piece assembly, they were only sold from Mopar as the entire assembly. It was the aftermarket that offered rotors without the hub, which requires separating and re-assembling hub and rotor.
Since they weren't sold as separate parts, service manuals don't cover the procedure of separation and re-assemby. At least some don't.
You can press or hammer out the studs, and press or hammer them back in with the new rotor. Just be sure to check if the rotors and studs are swaged to cut them loose. Using new studs wouldn't be a bad idea, either.
Since they weren't sold as separate parts, service manuals don't cover the procedure of separation and re-assemby. At least some don't.
You can press or hammer out the studs, and press or hammer them back in with the new rotor. Just be sure to check if the rotors and studs are swaged to cut them loose. Using new studs wouldn't be a bad idea, either.
Kevin, I have a few . On the cheap ! PM me if still needed !
DM me you info when you have time.
OP - it is really easy to screw up your hard to find hub assembly separating the disc and hub. The studs are swedged in place so you need a 7/16 swedge cutter to clean up the stud next to the disc. Take your assembly to a machine shop to get the swedge removed and get the studs pressed out. Given all this use a NEW disc!
The swedge was in place to make sure the whole assembly stayed together on the factory assembly line - so you don't have to swedge the reassembled disc and hub. That will make the next disc replacement a lot easier. Make sure the machine shop supports the hub around the stud head, so that they don't warp it pressing the studs out. Finding good hub replacements is really difficult these days.
The swedge was in place to make sure the whole assembly stayed together on the factory assembly line - so you don't have to swedge the reassembled disc and hub. That will make the next disc replacement a lot easier. Make sure the machine shop supports the hub around the stud head, so that they don't warp it pressing the studs out. Finding good hub replacements is really difficult these days.
I've replaced quite a few A body rotors through the years and I have yet to see a single one that was swedged. Not one. Drums are another story.
That said, be damned careful WHICH replacement rotors you get. The hats on some of them are too big and rub the rubber dust boots on the caliper pistons.
That said, be damned careful WHICH replacement rotors you get. The hats on some of them are too big and rub the rubber dust boots on the caliper pistons.
matthon
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Ah, the ol' swedge debate, one of a few topics that goes off the rails resulting in the OP leaving the building.
The Centric hats can be a bit big, spin it and use a grinder to find her a thinner hat.
I may have started another debate, you must use a lathe on the hat vs grind away.
I had a friend press out the studs on mine, before swedge was in my vocabulary. He never mentioned it, and I don't have bent hubs.
They were either never swedged, or replaced sometime over 40 years.
For the record, I'd be very careful with those hubs.
And I used a grinder on my rotors, they're cheap enough.
The Centric hats can be a bit big, spin it and use a grinder to find her a thinner hat.
I may have started another debate, you must use a lathe on the hat vs grind away.
I had a friend press out the studs on mine, before swedge was in my vocabulary. He never mentioned it, and I don't have bent hubs.
They were either never swedged, or replaced sometime over 40 years.
For the record, I'd be very careful with those hubs.
And I used a grinder on my rotors, they're cheap enough.
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