LA 360 roller engine ?

-
when oregon did my cam it was a 6 week or so turn around.. which is why its still in the box in my basement.. not sure the OP wants to wait that long for a summer motor.
All of mine have been a two week turnaround so far, but that could be because I sent my own cores and it's for a slant 6. The application may have some bearing on time. I don't know.
 

That's exactly what is going into my 67 Dart GT convertible when it gets done at body and paint. Mine is pretty beefed up but it will be really sweet when it gets into the car.
 
All of mine have been a two week turnaround so far, but that could be because I sent my own cores and it's for a slant 6. The application may have some bearing on time. I don't know.

who know.. i bought one of his cores. took a long time..
 
On top of the time/ trouble/ money for a different cam, I don't think you want to run the old lifters, I've never heard of being able to replace the rollers.
 
Well was thinking this. Take it apart and and go ahead and get some better pistons along with all new bearings. Grab me some heads from IMM the aluminum street master heads and a nice roller cam, top with my 650 edelbrock avs2 carb and air gap intake..she should rock..wonder what pistons would get in that 10 to 10.5 to compression. Id imagine the combo should be good for well over 400hp
For a 1 season summer motor, you're starting to fall down the rabbit hole.
I'd like something to throw in my car for now to play around with until winter gets here.

Also what sort of compression are these engines and are the heads decent or do I need to replace. Im not wanting to get to much money into right now.
Bearings, rings (with a dingleball hone), timing chain and gaskets.
Lap in the valves and throw new seals on them. Those 308 heads are some of the better factory heads and will be perfectly adequate on a good street motor. Beware of swapping heads. the LA roller heads had oversized pushrod holes to accept the altered geometry involved with the use of taller roller lifters and the inherently more radically angled pushrods- don't know if the IMM/Eddy heads are prepped for that out of the box. Earlier factory and many aftermarket heads are not, which means extra machine and prep work, which means more $$...
Yeah, the stock compression sucks (pbly looking at the 8-8.5 range), but you can run regular gas... Besides, new pistons= a re-balancing job. More $$. Throw thin gaskets on it, some fresh springs and retainers/keepers (ditch the rotators!) and call it good.
Slap the Air Gap & AVS2 on it with a good ignition & proper curve and run it for the summer- you may be shocked with how well it performs; and then you can put the cash into whatever you're going to build during the winter. If nothing else, consider it an opportunity to get your suspension and driveline sorted out before you drop a serious motor into it. Get it to hook/handle/stop and then you'll be ready when the time comes to add more power.
 
kind of a tricky situation with the dogwater compression. but you have gears and a converter... however with the weight of the car that throws another wrinkle into the mix.

a shoot from the hip would say melling spd-22, summit 6900, 6920 & 1789 all kinda fall into that 340 or 340 adjacent category.

melling 23103 would be an interesting choice and probably make gobs of torque.

i *really* like howards steetforce 1 in this application, but that's a lot of bread.

i think anything that's got under 270 and less than 112 lsa would be where i'd be looking. especially if it's just a stop gap while i had the roller core reground.
I have the same thing but it goes into a 69 Barracuda and it will be a 4 speed instead of a automatic. Same cam with 4:11 gears?
 
-
Back
Top Bottom