Leaf Spring Selection

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Just to clarify what Hotchkis leafs springs are for others...

They are 4 leaf, not 3. And they are designed to limit the S-shape twisting the front section makes when accelerating out of a corner.

130lbs Progressive rate, not Specific rate.

The front bushing is 1-1/2" OD that accepts a 1/2" bolt.
The sleeve is 3-1/8" long.

Rear bushing is the standard 7/8" OD for 1/2" DIA bolts.

You will have to press them out if you run the larger 9/16" bolts.
(Energy Suspension #19608
You will have to make your own sleeves since this kit only comes with 3" long sleeves).

I'm using them with a 3" Spring relocation kit and they are fine. I wish they were closer to 150 lbs rate but I picked up the body roll with a stiffer rear sway bar.




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I just sent back a set of XDH springs. One was good quality. The other was horrible quality and literally had the leafs sliding apart. I'd skip them. I'm told left and rights are made by two seperate manufactures now. You can see it in my pictures.

The shinny one stamped John R Spring was the bad one. You can see the straps were loose or broken. The width of each leaf was not consistent front to back.

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I have a few sets of SS springs,XHD springs and a Caltrac set up with mono leafs in stock for my cars.
 
oi81b4uu812b4 said:
View attachment 1715027213 View attachment 1715027214 I just sent back a set of XDH springs. One was good quality. The other was horrible quality and literally had the leafs sliding apart. I'd skip them. I'm told left and rights are made by two seperate manufactures now. You can see it in my pictures.

The shinny one stamped John R Spring was the bad one. You can see the straps were loose or broken. The width of each leaf was not consistent front to back.

View attachment 1715027215
Click to expand...

I did buy my XHD springs, 8 years ago. Your comment isn't the first I have seen about a quality decline. Looks like the rumors are true.
 
Last place I'd buy springs is from a dealer. Never liked those mopar springs.
Have used espo in the past with good results and now running the 130 pounders from Eaton.
 
oi81b4uu812b4 said:
Just to clarify what Hotchkis leafs springs are for others...

They are 4 leaf, not 3. And they are designed to limit the S-shape twisting the front section makes when accelerating out of a corner.

130lbs Progressive rate, not Specific rate.

The front bushing is 1-1/2" OD that accepts a 1/2" bolt.
The sleeve is 3-1/8" long.

Rear bushing is the standard 7/8" OD for 1/2" DIA bolts.

You will have to press them out of you run the larger 9/16" bolts.
(Energy Suspension #19608
You will have to make your own sleeves since this kit only comes with 3" long sleeves).

I'm using them with a 3" Spring relocation kit and they are fine. I wish they were closer to 150 lbs rate but I picked up the body roll with a stiffer rear sway bar.


Have you driven the car yet with the Hotchkis springs relocated 3 inches inboard yet?



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Yes we've driven it. It's not undersprung like some people say. Just doing the math I'd say for a 3" spring relocated car it would need a 150 lbs spring while Hotchkis are 130 lbs. Hotchkis springs have design features that help in more than just spring rates.
 
Thanks, years ago I had a car that I tried to make corner well with a 3 inch inboard kit and enden up needing springs so stiff it rode like my 3/4 ton 78 power wagon. At the time I had no rear sway bar and never really got around to making one for it.
 
Well there are several options to handle body roll with a sway bar in the back. The Axle mount ones usually attach the end links to the front curve on frame. Usually right in the middle. (But your leaf springs occupy that space with a spring relocate). You can modify Hotchkis' rear bar by bending each end in 2" and relocating or fabricating a new end link mount on the inside of the frame rail. Your frame is real thin in the back though. Spread your load out by reinforcing this area with a 6" piece of angle welded onto the frame. You can't just weld a tab onto the frame. The area will work harden from constant flex and it will break.

The E-body style are chassis mount and attach the end links to axle. Usually you just need to find where a good spot it to mount a bracket to receive the end link. You can tuck this style inside the rim a little more.

Firm Feel will bend you a custom style chassis mount bar for around $300.
 
famous bob said:
I`ve read that there are some that have used 2 drivers side superstock springs, w/ good results everywhere. any one done this ? I was thinking if I don`t like the complete caltrac set up, I might go that route. I already have a set of 002-003 springs.
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I am currently doing this. I am also on the look for new springs as well..... Not sure If I just got a bad lot, but the SS springs seemed to sag a lot. I'll post pics if I can find them (they have been on the car for 10 years and have been in the "sagged" state for 9 or so)
 
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