Lean burn removal

-
I think you are gonna find that the ignition wire IS NOT hot in start but only in run. How is this dealt with?

In older cars there is IGN1 and IGN2 right in the ignition switch. IGN1 is "run" and IGN2 is the brown bypass provides power direct to the coil + when cranking

On your pickup you may or may not have "IGN2" I believe this function in later years was handled by a separate additional contact on the starter relay. Older vehicles had 4 connections on the starter relay........the "big stud" is battery, the 'square" screw is starter solenoid and two "push on" flag terminals, one goes to key 'start' wire, the other to ground through the neutral switch

On later starter relays there is AN ADDED 5th contact which replaces the purpose of IGN2
 
67Dart273 said:
I think you are gonna find that the ignition wire IS NOT hot in start but only in run. How is this dealt with?

In older cars there is IGN1 and IGN2 right in the ignition switch. IGN1 is "run" and IGN2 is the brown bypass provides power direct to the coil + when cranking

On your pickup you may or may not have "IGN2" I believe this function in later years was handled by a separate additional contact on the starter relay. Older vehicles had 4 connections on the starter relay........the "big stud" is battery, the 'square" screw is starter solenoid and two "push on" flag terminals, one goes to key 'start' wire, the other to ground through the neutral switch

On later starter relays there is AN ADDED 5th contact which replaces the purpose of IGN2
Click to expand...


Photo from a 1983 D150 FSM that shows the coil + side wiring.

295D3ED8-9541-485D-A51C-B190A4D69537.jpeg


J10B-14RD coil + wire
J10D-14RD spark computer
J10C-14RD oil pressure switch
J10A-14RD alternator field coil
J10-14RD through the bulkhead connector to the ignition switch

looks to me that the coil +wire will be hot when the key is on or in the run position, but again, that can be verified with a multimeter.
 
Last edited:
my68barracuda said:
and your OE ignition did not have a ballast resistor, those were used with points distributors. You should be able to use your existing coil.
Click to expand...
Cool! So I'm looking at the slantsix.org instructions and it says on the list of things I need #6 Wiring diagram for electronic ignition system. Would that be specifically for the 1983 D150 that came with that option or just the layout in general? I've got a 76 Duster with a slant and the electronic ignition I was thinking I could just copy that layout for the most part?
 
DSavage said:
Cool! So I'm looking at the slantsix.org instructions and it says on the list of things I need #6 Wiring diagram for electronic ignition system. Would that be specifically for the 1983 D150 that came with that option or just the layout in general? I've got a 76 Duster with a slant and the electronic ignition I was thinking I could just copy that layout for the most part?
Click to expand...

I installed a HEI ignition when I removed the Lean Burn from my 83-D150, not a mopar electronic system, but I would think that the wiring diagram from a 76 Duster would get you the info that is needed.
 
67Dart273 said:
I think you are gonna find that the ignition wire IS NOT hot in start but only in run. How is this dealt with?

In older cars there is IGN1 and IGN2 right in the ignition switch. IGN1 is "run" and IGN2 is the brown bypass provides power direct to the coil + when cranking

On your pickup you may or may not have "IGN2" I believe this function in later years was handled by a separate additional contact on the starter relay. Older vehicles had 4 connections on the starter relay........the "big stud" is battery, the 'square" screw is starter solenoid and two "push on" flag terminals, one goes to key 'start' wire, the other to ground through the neutral switch

On later starter relays there is AN ADDED 5th contact which replaces the purpose of IGN2
Click to expand...

Awesome Thanks!
 
my68barracuda said:
Photo from a 1983 D150 FSM that shows the coil + side wiring.

View attachment 1715565702

Thank you for this!

J10B-14RD coil + wire
J10D-14RD spark computer
J10C-14RD oil pressure switch
J10A-14RD alternator field coil
J10-14RD through the bulkhead connector to the ignition switch

looks to me that the coil +wire will be hot when the key is on or in the run position, but again, that can be verified with a multimeter.
Click to expand...
 
my68barracuda said:
I installed a HEI ignition when I removed the Lean Burn from my 83-D150, not a mopar electronic system, but I would think that the wiring diagram from a 76 Duster would get you the info that is needed.
Click to expand...
Thanks again. Im pretty sure this alternator regulator gets eliminated in this process right and I'm thinking I'll just put the ecu in its place

20200722_100529.jpg
 
DSavage said:
Haha, glad I asked!
Click to expand...
Hey man, I was wondering if you could tell me.... the instructions for setting the gap on the distributor reluctor say to use a .008 brass feeler and I can only find a .010 is that close enough? Can't find a .008 anywhere.
 
DSavage said:
Hey man, I was wondering if you could tell me.... the instructions for setting the gap on the distributor reluctor say to use a .008 brass feeler and I can only find a .010 is that close enough? Can't find a .008 anywhere.
Click to expand...

will be fine, make it a tight .010
 
..........And if you have one of those hand vacuum pumps it's wise to pump down the vacuum advance and make certain the reluctor does not hit the coil when the vacuum is activated and not
 
@my68barracuda I have a 1982 D150 slant that lost spark. I have no power to the coil. Thanks for posting the wiring diagram, though I still can't seem to get 12v key on or start?
 
I know this thread is 3 years old but it has been helpful. A few questions if the OP is still around... I am in the mix of this as well but using the Dodge ECU box not the GM HEI. Did you ever get it going? I found the 4 wires soldered together is this what you us for the hot on the ballast and coil? I want to remove most of the wiring not needed around the Lean Burn is removed but so you keep all the sensor wires? I had the ECU mounted where the voltage reg went but reading this, I need to install that again and mount the ECU somewhere else. Thats awesome news.

Any help would be appreciated
 
There's 2 ignition circuits, you need to access them both in your conversion. One, hot with key on. The other , hot when key in "crank" position
 
volaredon said:
There's 2 ignition circuits, you need to access them both in your conversion. One, hot with key on. The other , hot when key in "crank" position
Click to expand...
Ok thanks. I have multimeter all the wires and this is the only 12v source that went to the lean burn unit. The coil some other thing picture included and alternator supply.

Any other ideas?

IMG_0351.jpeg
 
Was that bolted to manifold near choke unit? It's a heat sink/resistor for the choke
 
I was laying on the intake manifold and hooked to the 12v Soldered wires. It wasn't hooked up to anything. The carb this truck is not a computer control carb, which doesnt make sense.
I have cut out the lean burn wiring minus the 12v hot i have found. Checked multiple wires for 12v start and it all comes back to this soldered one connected together.
Worst case is I throw in a HEI unit rigged to this 12v and go from there. I would like to do the mopar ECU but i just can't see where the second Start Wire is.

Thanks for your help...
 
Starter relay, on the top left corner and marked "BAL" under the pin, I've done 2 lean burn deletes in the last month so it's fresh in my mind.
I used the mopar conversion kit and will get pics for you when the sun comes up.

1653695318892.jpg
 
Last edited:
The red wires that you found are the blue Ignition feed in the diagram I posted. Dodge changed the wiring color in the late 80's from red to blue.
 
I do, but as long as your crimps are good soldering is mostly piece of mind with a little overkill. If you have the time and materials on hand.... I'll go out an get a pic of the starter relay in one of my vehicles since the sun is now up.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top