Line Lock - front or rear??

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I'm a line lock guy on the front myself. But I also drag race and use the waterbox. I have seen 2 plumbed in for more of a "roll control" on a stick shift car. Never pressed it with nhra whether that made it a "pro" or "footbrake" if it didn't have a 2 step or transbrake. Lol
 
flyfish said:
Actually, I have been debating on putting a line lock on both front and rear, running it through a 2 step for a "poor mans trans brake". I have all the parts to do it, just haven't messed with it yet.
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That's pretty smart right there now!
 
The transmission is a more efficient brake than the brakes are.
 
mopowers said:
I think you may be misunderstanding. When you put the line lock in the rear line, you turn it around, so when the solenoid is activated, it simply blocks pressure from the rear brakes. It acts the same as plumbing the solenoid in the front. The only difference is it's your foot controlling when and how much the front brakes are applied vs your thumb on a switch during a burnout. And yes, your right foot still controls wheel speed.
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Unless you have three pedals on the floor. Then your short one leg/foot.
 
toolmanmike said:
The transmission is a more efficient brake than the brakes are.
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Agreed...but I run an 8 3/4, so if I were to go to a T-brake it would be VERY expensive for me because I would have to swap to a dana (or 9 inch) as well. Foot-braking I can get away with the 8 3/4, and the 4 wheel line lock thing won't put anywhere near the shock on the drive train compared to the T-brake. Line lock has the drive train loaded (easier on parts) verses the unloaded T-brake application that shocks the system.
 
Syleng1 said:
Sorry for being a “bone head” sir but why would you stop rear brakes from working? It’s a safety thing.
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Isnt that the whole point of a line lock? To stop the rear brakes from working so the rear tires can spin without brake resistance.?
 
dartfreak75 said:
Isnt that the whole point of a line lock? To stop the rear brakes from working so the rear tires can spin without brake resistance.?
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Hooked to the front only stops the car from moving and allows the rear to spin free.
 
toolmanmike said:
Hooked to the front only stops the car from moving and allows the rear to spin free.
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I think what the OP is saying is that you can hook them in the rear line to stop the flow from that point back it's still gonna do the same thing.
 
Wow! This post is still going ?!!?

1) line locks work by stepping on the brakes and holding the button. Then you let off your foot to the brake pedal to apply throttle. You then let go of the button to release the front brakes to let the car lay down a strip of rubber you back over and it gives you traction on your launch. There is more there than just smoking the crap out of the tires.
2) if you attach a line lock to the rear or left rear or right front or how ever you want to hook it up - have at it. Do it how ever you want. But by locking off the rear brakes you still have to step on the brake to apply the fronts. If you run a stick shift like I do... then you have to take foot off brake, let go of the electric switch and then apply throttle. Thus loosing approx 1-2 seconds of your time. Dependent of course how fast you can move.

3) locking rear brakes off means of electrically something goes south you have only front brakes to stop you. Even though rears are about 30% of your braking, they keep the car from swerving side to side when high speed braking- like at the big end of the track. If the set up is on the front like it was designed and the solenoid locks on for hydraulic issues or electrical issues - and they do. They you don’t move and the car gets towed off track. 0mph.

Yes OP asked can you hook up to front or rear. “Yes!” But my answer is “why would you?” Maybe the OP did not know the real answer. May be I’ve been doing it wrong for 30 years. My mistake.
 
Syleng1 said:
Wow! This post is still going ?!!?

1) line locks work by stepping on the brakes and holding the button. Then you let off your foot to the brake pedal to apply throttle. You then let go of the button to release the front brakes to let the car lay down a strip of rubber you back over and it gives you traction on your launch. There is more there than just smoking the crap out of the tires.
2) if you attach a line lock to the rear or left rear or right front or how ever you want to hook it up - have at it. Do it how ever you want. But by locking off the rear brakes you still have to step on the brake to apply the fronts. If you run a stick shift like I do... then you have to take foot off brake, let go of the electric switch and then apply throttle. Thus loosing approx 1-2 seconds of your time. Dependent of course how fast you can move.

3) locking rear brakes off means of electrically something goes south you have only front brakes to stop you. Even though rears are about 30% of your braking, they keep the car from swerving side to side when high speed braking- like at the big end of the track. If the set up is on the front like it was designed and the solenoid locks on for hydraulic issues or electrical issues - and they do. They you don’t move and the car gets towed off track. 0mph.

Yes OP asked can you hook up to front or rear. “Yes!” But my answer is “why would you?” Maybe the OP did not know the real answer. May be I’ve been doing it wrong for 30 years. My mistake.
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Many years ago I didn't want to go to a trans brake so i tried running a four wheel line lock with a delay box, I had a switch to go from front line lock to four wheel i would switch after the burn out. I could never get it to work properly so I abandoned the idea. I determined that the time it took for the box to release the brakes was too long and I was better off foot braking.
 
Syleng1 said:
Yes OP asked can you hook up to front or rear. “Yes!” But my answer is “why would you?” Maybe the OP did not know the real answer. May be I’ve been doing it wrong for 30 years. My mistake.
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Not true. I asked "Do you guys prefer to install your line locks on the front brake line, or on rear brake line?" You answered. Thank you.
 
flyfish said:
Agreed...but I run an 8 3/4, so if I were to go to a T-brake it would be VERY expensive for me because I would have to swap to a dana (or 9 inch) as well. Foot-braking I can get away with the 8 3/4, and the 4 wheel line lock thing won't put anywhere near the shock on the drive train compared to the T-brake. Line lock has the drive train loaded (easier on parts) verses the unloaded T-brake application that shocks the system.[/QUOTE
I ran a 71 BB Scamp with a trans brake 4.88 Spool 8 3/4 for several years without breaking it. Ran 6.30-6.40’s.
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How heavy was it? Mine is not heavy, but not light either (3250# with me)...plus I'm on radials....just doesn't make me feel comfortable moving to a T-brake.
 
On an auto car, go either way. It works fine either way and allows you to modulate braking. Funny, I always have my foot over the pedal anyways with the linelock on. Not like I'm going to rest my left foot on the dash or something while doing a burnout.

4 speed car, lock the fronts.
 
BVoelzke said:
Many years ago I didn't want to go to a trans brake so i tried running a four wheel line lock with a delay box, I had a switch to go from front line lock to four wheel i would switch after the burn out. I could never get it to work properly so I abandoned the idea. I determined that the time it took for the box to release the brakes was too long and I was better off foot braking.
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i have thought about doing this for a long time......That's some good info.
 
  • Computer: Prohibited unless stock OEM equipment. See general regulations 9:1.
  • Data Recorders: Prohibited. See general regulations 9:2 & 9:10.
  • Delay Boxes: Prohibited.
  • Transbrake: Prohibited.
  • Line lock: Four-wheel line lock prohibited. Two-wheel line lock permitted on non-drive wheels only.
  • Automated Shifter: Prohibited unless OEM equipped.
  • Throttle Control: Throttle must be manually operated by the driver’s foot. Electronics, pneumatics, hydraulics or any other device may in no way affect the throttle operation. A deadstop under the carburetor or gas pedal is permitted. Throttle timers, counters prohibited.
  • Ignition: Stutter boxes prohibited. Single stage (high side only) rev limiters permitted. Starting line rev limiter prohibited. Two or more step rev limiter prohibited, any other rpm limiting devices, legal unto themselves but altered or installed in so as to function as a down-track rpm controller prohibited. Crank trigger system prohibited, unless OEM distributorless ignition.
  • Switches & Buttons: All switches and/or buttons must be NHRA accepted standard mechanical connection type. Infrared lasers, retinal scan, fingerprint, light source or other non-mechanical type switch prohibited.
  • Tow vehicles: Prohibited.
  • Exhaust: Muffler(s) required.
I found this for bracket cars. NHRA
 
Dfr360cuda said:
  • Computer: Prohibited unless stock OEM equipment. See general regulations 9:1.
  • Data Recorders: Prohibited. See general regulations 9:2 & 9:10.
  • Delay Boxes: Prohibited.
  • Transbrake: Prohibited.
  • Line lock: Four-wheel line lock prohibited. Two-wheel line lock permitted on non-drive wheels only.
  • Automated Shifter: Prohibited unless OEM equipped.
  • Throttle Control: Throttle must be manually operated by the driver’s foot. Electronics, pneumatics, hydraulics or any other device may in no way affect the throttle operation. A deadstop under the carburetor or gas pedal is permitted. Throttle timers, counters prohibited.
  • Ignition: Stutter boxes prohibited. Single stage (high side only) rev limiters permitted. Starting line rev limiter prohibited. Two or more step rev limiter prohibited, any other rpm limiting devices, legal unto themselves but altered or installed in so as to function as a down-track rpm controller prohibited. Crank trigger system prohibited, unless OEM distributorless ignition.
  • Switches & Buttons: All switches and/or buttons must be NHRA accepted standard mechanical connection type. Infrared lasers, retinal scan, fingerprint, light source or other non-mechanical type switch prohibited.
  • Tow vehicles: Prohibited.
  • Exhaust: Muffler(s) required.
I found this for bracket cars. NHRA
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That looks like rules for Sportsman (Notice the no T-brake, no delay box, etc). Like I said, in some classes it is not allowed, but I have never found something saying it is not allowed at any track.
 
I have my line lock on the front wheels and the button is on the floor where the dimmer switch used to be. I pump up the brakes with my right foot and then press and hold button with my left. After the button is on I can move right foot back to accelerator. I have a light wired to it so I can verify when it's on. I have no wires on the shifter or the steering wheel.
 
Dfr360cuda said:
  • Computer: Prohibited unless stock OEM equipment. See general regulations 9:1.
  • Data Recorders: Prohibited. See general regulations 9:2 & 9:10.
  • Delay Boxes: Prohibited.
  • Transbrake: Prohibited.
  • Line lock: Four-wheel line lock prohibited. Two-wheel line lock permitted on non-drive wheels only.
  • Automated Shifter: Prohibited unless OEM equipped.
  • Throttle Control: Throttle must be manually operated by the driver’s foot. Electronics, pneumatics, hydraulics or any other device may in no way affect the throttle operation. A deadstop under the carburetor or gas pedal is permitted. Throttle timers, counters prohibited.
  • Ignition: Stutter boxes prohibited. Single stage (high side only) rev limiters permitted. Starting line rev limiter prohibited. Two or more step rev limiter prohibited, any other rpm limiting devices, legal unto themselves but altered or installed in so as to function as a down-track rpm controller prohibited. Crank trigger system prohibited, unless OEM distributorless ignition.
  • Switches & Buttons: All switches and/or buttons must be NHRA accepted standard mechanical connection type. Infrared lasers, retinal scan, fingerprint, light source or other non-mechanical type switch prohibited.
  • Tow vehicles: Prohibited.
  • Exhaust: Muffler(s) required.
I found this for bracket cars. NHRA
Click to expand...
Thank you!
 
Dfr360cuda said:
  • Computer: Prohibited unless stock OEM equipment. See general regulations 9:1.
  • Data Recorders: Prohibited. See general regulations 9:2 & 9:10.
  • Delay Boxes: Prohibited.
  • Transbrake: Prohibited.
  • Line lock: Four-wheel line lock prohibited. Two-wheel line lock permitted on non-drive wheels only.
  • Automated Shifter: Prohibited unless OEM equipped.
  • Throttle Control: Throttle must be manually operated by the driver’s foot. Electronics, pneumatics, hydraulics or any other device may in no way affect the throttle operation. A deadstop under the carburetor or gas pedal is permitted. Throttle timers, counters prohibited.
  • Ignition: Stutter boxes prohibited. Single stage (high side only) rev limiters permitted. Starting line rev limiter prohibited. Two or more step rev limiter prohibited, any other rpm limiting devices, legal unto themselves but altered or installed in so as to function as a down-track rpm controller prohibited. Crank trigger system prohibited, unless OEM distributorless ignition.
  • Switches & Buttons: All switches and/or buttons must be NHRA accepted standard mechanical connection type. Infrared lasers, retinal scan, fingerprint, light source or other non-mechanical type switch prohibited.
  • Tow vehicles: Prohibited.
  • Exhaust: Muffler(s) required.
I found this for bracket cars. NHRA
Click to expand...
I've been bracket racing IHRA and NHRA for years.
People that I race against regularly use:
Computer controls
data recorders
Transbrakes
Automated shifter
2 step buttons
No exhaust
 
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