Lisle valve spring compressor, junk?

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ddart cart

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I’m at the valve springs to change the seals for my 360 swap. Head off, I cannot budge the springs with the Lisle compressor, and feel like any more force will break or damage something. I can get the spring to slightly lift from the bottom, but will not depress at all to reveal the keepers up top. You need 2 hands to operate the tool, but it will release if you let go. I was just testing if the tool worked like I thought it should (it doesn’t), and didn’t even figure out where the extra hands are coming from to catch the keepers, and reinsert them while I bear down with all my might, on this tool/spring. The $30 spigot knob type look like you can actually let go once compressed, this $50 compressor seems like it wants to hurt something, and doesn’t compress anything with me using it. I’m pushing the upper lever forward to compress, maybe orient the upper handle so I pull down toward the other handle? I’m a strong guy btw.

So is this thing a pos, am I using it wrong (probably), or do I really need a helper to remove springs? Lisle valve spring compressor:
IMG_9710.jpeg
 
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That’s a weird tool?!?
Also did you take a 3/4 socket to the retainer and smack it first to free the keepers from the stem and retainer?

I’ve always used the large c clamp style that holds the face of the valve. I’ve never even seen that style - it looks cheap. Almost like a door hinge spring remover for the Chevrolets from the 80’s.
 

View attachment 1716391986Like this guy is the one I use from OTC.
This looks way more usable! I didn’t tap the keepers with a 3/4, banging anything in the heads makes me nervous, but I also have no clue. Youtube god smiled upon me and just allowed a video of my specific tool. I had the upper handle turned around, so I should of been pulling the upper down to the lower handle. That’s probably why it wasn’t locking compressed. I will check shortly if rotating the upper handle 180 works.
 
I’m at the valve springs to change the seals for my 360 swap. Head off, I cannot budge the springs with the Lisle compressor, and feel like any more force will break or damage something. I can get the spring to slightly lift from the bottom, but will not depress at all to reveal the keepers up top. You need 2 hands to operate the tool, but it will release if you let go. I was just testing if the tool worked like I thought it should (it doesn’t), and didn’t even figure out where the extra hands are coming from to catch the keepers, and reinsert them while I bear down with all my might, on this tool/spring. The $30 spigot knob type look like you can actually let go once compressed, this $50 compressor seems like it wants to hurt something, and doesn’t compress anything with me using it. I’m pushing the upper lever forward to compress, maybe orient the upper handle so I pull down toward the other handle? I’m a strong guy btw.

So is this thing a pos, am I using it wrong (probably), or do I really need a helper to remove springs? Lisle valve spring compressor:
View attachment 1716391977
It looks like you need to spin the top handle around so you are using the cam to depress the spring. Those are a great tool if used correctly. I always wrap the retainers with a dead blow hammer to unstick the keepers.
 
I think you are right, Mike! Glad to know you like this tool, and that it should work once I flip the handle. I’ll report back shortly.
 
We've got same one, I wasn't too keen on it. The fingers didn't seem to go in deep enuf if i remember correctly.
If you can weld you can make a way better one very easily! And cost next to nothing.
 
Here's mine, turns out the one is a Powerbuilt, same style tho. And here's my home made one. A rocker arm and a socket with hex head to get wrench on.

20250413_080630.jpg


20250413_080643.jpg
 
I’m at the valve springs to change the seals for my 360 swap. Head off, I cannot budge the springs with the Lisle compressor, and feel like any more force will break or damage something. I can get the spring to slightly lift from the bottom, but will not depress at all to reveal the keepers up top. You need 2 hands to operate the tool, but it will release if you let go. I was just testing if the tool worked like I thought it should (it doesn’t), and didn’t even figure out where the extra hands are coming from to catch the keepers, and reinsert them while I bear down with all my might, on this tool/spring. The $30 spigot knob type look like you can actually let go once compressed, this $50 compressor seems like it wants to hurt something, and doesn’t compress anything with me using it. I’m pushing the upper lever forward to compress, maybe orient the upper handle so I pull down toward the other handle? I’m a strong guy btw.

So is this thing a pos, am I using it wrong (probably), or do I really need a helper to remove springs? Lisle valve spring compressor:
View attachment 1716391977
With the Lisle tool you can screw the top handle in or out to adjust it for the particular spring you are working with. Too far one way and you won't be able to compress the spring, too far the other and it won't compress far enough. There is a sweet spot. Get it adjusted for the first one and it will be good for the next 15.
 
We've got same one, I wasn't too keen on it. The fingers didn't seem to go in deep enuf if i remember correctly.
If you can weld you can make a way better one very easily! And cost next to nothing.
Yeah the finger tabs are short and like to slip out. Maybe I’ll twist some wire around them, once in place. I don’t know how to weld, but plan on learning. No extra rockers either. I saw one guy drilled a hole through a crescent wrench and bolted it to the head, as he tightens the bolt, the retainer gets free.
 
You have to unlock the valve locks. Flip the head on its side, put your thumb on each valve and tap each retainer with a hammer to unlock the valve locks. Hit the retainer, not the valve stem. If you pay attention, you can feel with your thumb when the valve unlocks. You cannot "just compress" the valve springs without unlocking them first. That's why they're called valve LOCKS.
 
I have that same Lisle valve spring tool
Works fine. I've replaced quite a few sets of valve seals without even pulling the heads off.
I also have one of those big c clamp style spring compressors. I use both at different times. Both have their place.
I'd like to find a c clamp style that is air operated one of these days. But not in a hurry as I've gotten by fine without all of these years.
One day I'll find one at a garage sale or swap meet...
 
I have that same Lisle valve spring tool
Works fine. I've replaced quite a few sets of valve seals without even pulling the heads off.
I also have one of those big c clamp style spring compressors. I use both at different times. Both have their place.
I'd like to find a c clamp style that is air operated one of these days. But not in a hurry as I've gotten by fine without all of these years.
One day I'll find one at a garage sale or swap meet...
So do I. It works fine. It's a tad slow, but that's a job you don't want to hurry anyway, especially on the engine.
 
I had too, my hands couldn't take it anymore lol. Wasn't working on the dual springs tho. So i made one with socket and rocker.


View attachment 1716392032
That tool would cost me thousands of dollars. I sold my welder because the electric in the garage wasn't heavy enough. $500 for a new welder, $150 for tank rental and $3000 + to rewire the garage. :rofl: :rofl: :mob:

Oh, and $5 for a cheap socket. :BangHead:
 
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You have to unlock the valve locks. Flip the head on its side, put your thumb on each valve and tap each retainer with a hammer to unlock the valve locks. Hit the retainer, not the valve stem. If you pay attention, you can feel with your thumb when the valve unlocks. You cannot "just compress" the valve springs without unlocking them first. That's why they're called valve LOCKS.
So don’t use something small like a nail set because it will contact the tip of the valve stem, and a hammer will bridge the small gap and only contact the retainers? Am I understanding that right? The valve stem itself is not exposed anywhere to hit it anyway.
 
The tool in post 3 is the one . The old mopar valve springs arent the same as newer ones they are more stronger spring steel etc. The mopar valvetrain is heavy duty bigger sized stuff
 
I had too, my hands couldn't take it anymore lol. Wasn't working on the dual springs tho. So i made one with socket and rocker.


View attachment 1716392032
LOL!!! I did that to mine in about 1973!!! Pretty sure my first one was a KD.

I'm with the others you MUST "bump" the retainers to get them unstuck. I use a socket large enough to clear the valve/ retainers but small enough to not slide off the retainer. Don't hit it real hard, and have the head jacked up (if removed) on some rags and scrap wood. That way you won't accidently drive the valve heads against the bench
 
The tool in post 3 is the one . The old mopar valve springs arent the same as newer ones they are more stronger spring steel etc. The mopar valvetrain is heavy duty bigger sized stuff
Hopefully I can get by with the free one. I’m a little delayed because I had to chase down a customer who likes to pay at there convenience instead of when they get the bill. My favorite! Anyway I’m really going out there to retry, now.
 
If the idea of whacking the valves scares you, you should see how a major engine remanufacturer takes things apart! I've always used a socket and hammer to loosen things up before taking cylinder heads apart. As long as you don't go "Godzilla" on them, it's all good.
 
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