Lisle valve spring compressor, junk?

[ddart cart]

Okay so the spring tool seems like it will work, now that it’s properly oriented. I’m not understanding the retainers. Even though I’m afraid small, high speed projectiles will fly into the abyss, I gave a few taps with a socket on the retainer. Nothing. Hitting it harder seems like a bad idea, and I definitely can’t hold a hammer socket, and the valve to register any change. I originally thought the retainer won’t go anywhere unless you depress the spring and release the pressure first?
I was mixed up thinking the stem tip sat below the retainers, Rusty, but the stem protrudes. I can’t hit the retainers with a hammer without hitting the stem (I didn’t) unless a socket or something bridges the valve stem tip.

 

[66Valiant528]

You don't want to hit the locks! Just give that big retainer a good smack. If you like put a 5/8 socket on top and wack it!!

 

[ddart cart]

I got one like this, but I only use it for removing springs that I know I won't reuse. If the fingers scratch or mar the spring they are junk as that creates a stress point for breakage. It was given to me for free and it is a POS, hard on the wrist and the fingers keep slipping off.



This is the one you want, it doesn't touch the springs at all.

Don’t scratch the springs while using metal tools and hammers to remove them? Is that real? Seems impossible.

 

[ddart cart]

You don't want to hit the locks! Just give that big retainer a good smack. If you like put a 5/8 socket on top and wack it!!

I hit the locks a few taps. I thought the locks were the retainers. Is the retainer actually what caps the spring and look like a washer? I was literally about to start hammering harder on the little pieces that lock the spring to the stem.

 

[4spdragtop]

Del that one with socket was the one that "took out" the mig welder board you repaired for me

LOL!!! I did that to mine in about 1973!!! Pretty sure my first one was a KD.

I'm with the others you MUST "bump" the retainers to get them unstuck. I use a socket large enough to clear the valve/ retainers but small enough to not slide off the retainer. Don't hit it real hard, and have the head jacked up (if removed) on some rags and scrap wood. That way you won't accidently drive the valve heads against the bench

 

[66Valiant528]

I hit the locks a few taps. I thought the locks were the retainers. Is the retainer actually what caps the spring and look like a washer? I was literally about to start hammering harder on the little pieces that lock the spring to the stem.

Yes the big thing is the retainer. Don't hit the locks.

 

[Dartswinger70]

If the idea of whacking the valves scares you, you should see how a major engine remanufacturer takes things apart! I've always used a socket and hammer to loosen things up before taking cylinder heads apart. As long as you don't go "Godzilla" on them, it's all good.

Yup this is what i do. You could also squirt a little PB blast near the locks(retainers) then a rap with a hammer and socket just to shock em loose then the c clamp spring compressor then I use a magnet to fish the locks. I never want my fingers down there in case the compressor lets loose...

 

[ddart cart]

Okay one down 15 to go. I’m just changing the seals one at a time. Stand by for getting it back on lol. Fingers crossed.

There is a little tiny gap at the base of the seal where it sits on the head. I hope that is normal because it doesn’t go down further:

 

[ch1ll]

Don’t scratch the springs while using metal tools and hammers to remove them? Is that real? Seems impossible.

That is why you use the spring compressor pictured and captioned use this one

 

[crackedback]

Put the head on bench with a towel rolled up in the chamber (valve can't move down, same as running rope into the chamber when doing this on the engine).
Socket large enough to lay on flat of retainer, smack pretty hard with a small 1lb sledge. Drives retainer down, ejects locks, done. The locks will really get locked into place after years of operation, finesse is not the way to go. Taken at least a thousand sets of heads apart doing this method. Sometimes the caveman approach is the best method.

Being dainty is a time waster here IMO.

 

[ddart cart]

Okay the gap is normal according to the next seal. The spring, locks, and retainer went back on easy. I was mixing up those terms btw. Regarding scratching the springs, I’ll do my best with what I have as the budget quickly ran dry. Hopefully the engine doesn’t blow up after 5 miles because I have the wrong compressor.

 

[33IMP]

I have not read this thread, but.....
The lisle is intended for use with the heads mounted on the block.
With the heads off, there are better choices.
I have used the lever type, and also an air-powered one. Neither could do solid roller pressure springs.
So, I modified a giant US built C-clamp. 900 lb springs? No problem at all.
(Homemade, perfectly functional tools below)

 

[crackedback]

I have not read this thread, but.....
The lisle is intended for use with the heads mounted on the block.
With the heads off, there are better choices.
I have used the lever type, and also an air-powered one. Neither could do solid roller pressure springs.
So, I modified a giant US built C-clamp. 900 lb springs? No problem at all.
(Homemade, perfectly functional tools below)

View attachment 1716392181

That's the hammer to use.

Another tip if using the hammer approach and heads on engine in car, hold a magnet against the outside of the socket when it get smacked. The locks will end up 95-99% of the time on the inside of the socket. Not floating around somewhere in the engine. They will jump like a mexican jumping bean once in a while. Also stuff all the spots with rags/towels or lay a towel across the entire head area where they could disappear, oil drain backs. It's no fun fishing them out of the valley or worse if they bounce there and find the oval drainbacks in valley, then pan or jam up somewhere less fortunate.

 

[ddart cart]

I got one side done, and it went pretty smooth once I figured it out. Thank you for all the helpful input! Sorry if I’m a little slow with it.
I just took off the other head and found some ugly. I am making another thread to not pollute this one. Meet me there if you want to chime in on cylinder bores.

 

[RustyRatRod]

So don’t use something small like a nail set because it will contact the tip of the valve stem, and a hammer will bridge the small gap and only contact the retainers? Am I understanding that right? The valve stem itself is not exposed anywhere to hit it anyway.

You hit the retainers BEFORE you install the spring tool.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Okay so the spring tool seems like it will work, now that it’s properly oriented. I’m not understanding the retainers. Even though I’m afraid small, high speed projectiles will fly into the abyss, I gave a few taps with a socket on the retainer. Nothing. Hitting it harder seems like a bad idea, and I definitely can’t hold a hammer socket, and the valve to register any change. I originally thought the retainer won’t go anywhere unless you depress the spring and release the pressure first?
I was mixed up thinking the stem tip sat below the retainers, Rusty, but the stem protrudes. I can’t hit the retainers with a hammer without hitting the stem (I didn’t) unless a socket or something bridges the valve stem tip.

View attachment 1716392063

View attachment 1716392064

That's because you're hitting the VALVE LOCKS. First, you need to STOP and LEARN something about what you're doing, because you don't know. No offense, none of us knows everything. You need to hit the RETAINER with a hammer and unlock the valve locks. LOOK at how it is assembled, don't just bumble in blindly, man. The valve locks are the small pieces against the valve. They are shaped like half cones. When you hit the valve locks with that small socket like you are doing, you are simply locking them HARDER. DO what I told you to do and hit the RETAINER. Hitting the retainer knocks the retainer DOWN for an instant and unlocks the valve locks. THEN you can use the tool to compress the valve spring.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I got one side done, and it went pretty smooth once I figured it out. Thank you for all the helpful input! Sorry if I’m a little slow with it.
I just took off the other head and found some ugly. I am making another thread to not pollute this one. Meet me there if you want to chime in on cylinder bores.

No problem. Glad you figured it out. Take it slow and easy and you'll get it.

 

[toolmanmike]

This guy is working on a Chevy but the same procedure applies. Don't use a claw hammer though.

 

[Swinger 340]

Okay so the spring tool seems like it will work, now that it’s properly oriented. I’m not understanding the retainers. Even though I’m afraid small, high speed projectiles will fly into the abyss, I gave a few taps with a socket on the retainer. Nothing. Hitting it harder seems like a bad idea, and I definitely can’t hold a hammer socket, and the valve to register any change. I originally thought the retainer won’t go anywhere unless you depress the spring and release the pressure first?
I was mixed up thinking the stem tip sat below the retainers, Rusty, but the stem protrudes. I can’t hit the retainers with a hammer without hitting the stem (I didn’t) unless a socket or something bridges the valve stem tip.

View attachment 1716392063

View attachment 1716392064

You need to put something on the valve side to hold the valve in place while smacking the retainer in place. If not the valve stem and retainer will move at the same time. The valve must be stationary. When possible, I have done several removals to replace the oil seals in a older motor, with compress air through the spark plug holes. Just be careful you don't drop the valve into the cylinder. I your case here I would use a rolled up rag and place it at each location on the valve. Note: If the valve is removed, you may have to lap it afterwords. This is the reason I like to use the air method, so nothing is moved.

 

[Woody500]

I’m at the valve springs to change the seals for my 360 swap. Head off, I cannot budge the springs with the Lisle compressor, and feel like any more force will break or damage something. I can get the spring to slightly lift from the bottom, but will not depress at all to reveal the keepers up top. You need 2 hands to operate the tool, but it will release if you let go. I was just testing if the tool worked like I thought it should (it doesn’t), and didn’t even figure out where the extra hands are coming from to catch the keepers, and reinsert them while I bear down with all my might, on this tool/spring. The $30 spigot knob type look like you can actually let go once compressed, this $50 compressor seems like it wants to hurt something, and doesn’t compress anything with me using it. I’m pushing the upper lever forward to compress, maybe orient the upper handle so I pull down toward the other handle? I’m a strong guy btw.

So is this thing a pos, am I using it wrong (probably), or do I really need a helper to remove springs? Lisle valve spring compressor:
View attachment 1716391977

That's for using with head still bolted on engine & you put AIR PRESSURE in the cylinder to keep valve closed . Then you change the springs
Do leakdown test to be sure valves will stay shut. & then hit retainer w/ brass hammer too loosen keeper before putting tool on.

 

[Woody500]

I got one like this, but I only use it for removing springs that I know I won't reuse. If the fingers scratch or mar the spring they are junk as that creates a stress point for breakage. It was given to me for free and it is a POS, hard on the wrist and the fingers keep slipping off.



This is the one you want, it doesn't touch the springs at all.

Maybe first one is to set up FH Ford V8 valve 'assembly' or whatever they call it

 

[Deltatech]

I’m at the valve springs to change the seals for my 360 swap. Head off, I cannot budge the springs with the Lisle compressor, and feel like any more force will break or damage something. I can get the spring to slightly lift from the bottom, but will not depress at all to reveal the keepers up top. You need 2 hands to operate the tool, but it will release if you let go. I was just testing if the tool worked like I thought it should (it doesn’t), and didn’t even figure out where the extra hands are coming from to catch the keepers, and reinsert them while I bear down with all my might, on this tool/spring. The $30 spigot knob type look like you can actually let go once compressed, this $50 compressor seems like it wants to hurt something, and doesn’t compress anything with me using it. I’m pushing the upper lever forward to compress, maybe orient the upper handle so I pull down toward the other handle? I’m a strong guy btw.

So is this thing a pos, am I using it wrong (probably), or do I really need a helper to remove springs? Lisle valve spring compressor:
View attachment 1716391977

You have to rotate the upper handle (you have it backwards in the pic) and pull it down towards the lower handle. It will work but is a pain to use.
I used one of those a few decades ago. I bought a c clamp over the head type which is much better (easier,less slippage).

 

[RustyRatRod]

You have to rotate the upper handle (you have it backwards in the pic) and pull it down towards the lower handle. It will work but is a pain to use.
I used one of those a few decades ago. I bought a c clamp over the head type which is much better.

I wouldn't call it a pain, but it is a little slow. That said, is it a job you really want to rush?

 

[Deltatech]

I wouldn't call it a pain, but it is a little slow. That said, is it a job you really want to rush?

keeping it from slipping or gouging the spring is the pain depending what heads it's used on.
In between rounds YES. lol
"They were designed in the 70's to change springs between rounds." is what My Grandpa told me when he saw me fighting mine. He suggested the over the head type. I listened.

 

[RustyRatRod]

keeping it from slipping or gouging the spring is the pain depending what heads it's used on.
In between rounds YES. lol

I use a properly sized hose clamp to hold the jaws on. It slows it down even more, but I don't mind. I don't use it enough to really give a damn anyway.