lokar kick down adjustment

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tekslk

tekslk

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I have a 904 with the lokar throttle cable and kick down, I would like it to stay in gear a little longer before it up shifts, which way do I need to adjust the cable, also that should give me kickdown at higher speeds when tromped?
 
I may be wrong but, I don't think the cable is for adjusting shift points. It is just for kickdown when you need it. I know the shift kits may help. I'm not a tranny guy so others may know the right way to adjust shift points.
 
Well I dont have kickdown past 25mph wondering if I can get that up to 45=50 mph and which way to go with it.
 
If you want to be able to have it kick down at higher speeds you need the cable to pulling on it more when throttle is mashed as it will delay it shifting out to early. The kickdown increases line pressure . Just play with a little and you will kno which way to go its pretty easy. Just adjust it some then drive it then adjust again until its where you want it
 
On a 727, shortening the cable will hold it in gear longer before it shifts. I don't know if it's the same for 904s or not.

When I installed my Lokar, we took all of the slack out of the cable and tightened it down. After a couple hundred miles, it started shifting funny, so I checked the cable. Sure enough, it had stretched just a little. Took the slack out of the cable and it shifts fine again!!
 
BrianT said:
On a 727, shortening the cable will hold it in gear longer before it shifts. I don't know if it's the same for 904s or not.

When I installed my Lokar, we took all of the slack out of the cable and tightened it down. After a couple hundred miles, it started shifting funny, so I checked the cable. Sure enough, it had stretched just a little. Took the slack out of the cable and it shifts fine again!!
Click to expand...

same on 904...go for a ride and take the allen wrench with you..i found that small adjustments of 1/8" make a difference..
 
That helps a bunch thanks Tony, I was trying to adjust mine strait back from there at the bracket, I guess that doesnt cut it does it?
 
There are ways to tune the governor to tailor shift speeds as well. It been a long time since I did one, but I think Mopar action had an article on it that was pretty good. Sort out the KD cable adjustment 1st before making any other mods.
 
you want to make the cable at the carb. tighter which should pull the leaver at the trans back some to raise shift point..
 
QUESTION: as I also have a lokar kickdown, currently where I have it set at is there is no tension on the kickdown cable at idle, and there is slack on the tranny kickdown lever. during throttle, it pulls the cable/ lever at the tranny at the same time so it doesnt really kickdown when ya step on it....must I tighten it at the carb like you say? will there always be a constant "pull" on the trans lever if the cable is tightened?
 
i huess it depends on your leaver. i always had to cut my cable. then i adjust it to where i want with the adjuster around the middle position, then cut the inner cable to length.

the pic below is how mine was... sounds like you need more tension put on the leaver. its trial and error thing....

DSC09923.jpg
 
abodyjoe said:
the pic below is how mine was... sounds like you need more tension put on the leaver. its trial and error thing....
Click to expand...

I agree. Like Joe said earlier, take the allen wrench with you. If it won't downshift, take some slack out of the cable. If it won't upshift til 5 grand, lengthen the cable. Little increments in the cable DO make a big difference.
 
Well. I hate to say this, but the kickdown needs to be adjusted right or the transmission will not get the pressure it needs. You will be taking the chance of burning up your transmission. The kickdown needs to be all the way forward so as soon as the throttle moves, the kickdown level moves to keep the trans pressure right. You are better off going a a full manual valve body. Just trying to help here.
 
You are better off going a a full manual valve body
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Been there done that. No thanks.

The cable kickdown works great. Sometimes it takes some trial and error to get it just right. My trans was in my dart from 05 till late last year lots of street miles and and 1/4 mile runs and shifted as good as the day I put it in. Now it's in my buddies cuda.
 
I made some adjustments tonight and road checked well, I have kickdown at 45-50 mph so for now im satisfied. When it gets warm out I may fine tune but much better for now, thanks guys.
 
i was reading up on this today as i'm installing one tonight. this is from slantsix.org

ADJUSTMENT: with the carburetor at it’s IDLE position the KD lever on the Torqueflite should be approximately 1/4 to 1/3 of the way REARWARD in it’s travel; the lever should NOT be all the way forward or relaxed !! At IDLE position you should be able to just feel the start of spring tension (resistance) on the lever when pushing back. With correct positioning of the KD linkage at IDLE, the low-speed light-throttle shift points should be approximately 10-15 MPH on the 1-2 shift and approximately 15-25 MPH on the 2-3 shift. With the carburetor “wide-open”, the lever on the Torqueflite should be pushed fully rearward, then back the linkage off 1 or 2 threads to keep from “bottoming” the valve train inside the valve body and possibly doing damage. If the Torqueflite does NOT have “passing gear” (or kickdown), there is not adequate throttle-pressure to insure longevity of the clutches and bands.


NOTE: it is critical to initially check and insure that the throttle pedal is causing the carburetor to open fully at “wide-open-throttle”; laying across the fender and pushing the carb bellcrank back may not allow the KD linkage to cause the Torqueflite to shift correctly !!!!!
 
Another thing that may or may not be covered here is the carb-to-arm ratio; matching the distance of travel from idle to full throttle at the carb, and transferring it to the throttle valve arm. If the cable travels say 1 3/8" at the carb, the cable needs to cover that same distance below otherwise, the line pressure increase ratio isn't right from a factory engineering standpoint.

Most Lokar set-ups could benefit from a hole drilled inboard on the TV arm to get the ratio right; at the very least, checked.

Here is a clean example, gleaned from a ramchargercentral thread:

index.php
 
PoisonDart74 said:
Another thing that may or may not be covered here is the carb-to-arm ratio; matching the distance of travel from idle to full throttle at the carb, and transferring it to the throttle valve arm. If the cable travels say 1 3/8" at the carb, the cable needs to cover that same distance below otherwise, the line pressure increase ratio isn't right from a factory engineering standpoint.

Most Lokar set-ups could benefit from a hole drilled inboard on the TV arm to get the ratio right; at the very least, checked.

Here is a clean example, gleaned from a ramchargercentral thread:

[URL="http://ramchargercentral.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51044.0;attach=5556;image"][URL="http://ramchargercentral.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51044.0;attach=5556;image"][/URL][/URL]
Click to expand...


The extra spring in the picture is not needed to pull the T.P. lever forward. the spring in the valve body is all. The first bit of travel nothing happens. there is a cam shaped shoe that pushes the T.P. valve in after it moves a bit. Adjust the T.P. lever so it is all the way back except 1/8 " at W.O.T.
 
^1/8"? That's a new one. How about this; keep it in mind, do what works best. Personally, I'd rather play it safe and get the ratio right, than beat my clutches up because of it.

Some folks may, some may not have issues with these cables, but there HAVE been issues. That's why I bothered to take the time and energy to post. I'm not blowing wind because I like how I type.
 
PoisonDart74 said:
^1/8"? That's a new one. How about this; keep it in mind, do what works best. 71+ React differently than 70 on down to add to all this.
Click to expand...


The reason you hold off an 1/8 is so your T.P. lever isn't all in before you get to full throttle. Then you know it's not holding you at part throttle. That way you won't stretch or brake your cable.
 
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