Long Travel Soft Brake Pedal

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Was able to take for 15 minute drive. Pedal travel long. But car stops with authority without a lot of leg muscle. Toward end of drive brakes got a lot stronger. So I am gonna pop dog dish caps on and run it ...

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So with both rear caliper pistons fully seated I pulled on emergency brake main cable under car to set and release emergency brake around 30 plus times. ALL the slack was taken out of the driver side rear caliper. But pass side no slack was removed? So then I found pass side caliper brake hose was preventing lever from fully returning. So I loosened hose bolt, moved hose, and emergency brake lever / cable snapped right back to full release position.

After that I went ahead and pulled on main cable under car to engage / release emergency brake. Also adjusted cable. I was able to get ALL slack out of both rear calipers. Emergency brake handle in car pulls around half way out and gets very firm. Handle released emergency brakes release levers on calipers return to full release. Also, the cable equalizer under car, where main cable connects to two axle cables, is even when emergency brake are fully appied.

Without any further bleeding the brake pedal feel significantly improved. I went ahead and bled all 4 corners again, seemed to be a lot of tiny bubbles on driver side front caliper.

Brake pedal travel may have decreased a half inch or so. But pedal no longer has that spongy mushy feel. Travel is still long but the pedal has a nice feel to it now.

I think I failed to use emergency brake to fully seat both rear calipers on installation causing the mushy brake pedal.

I also recall applying 40 PSI to brake hose Tee when Dana rear was on a dolly to test for brake line leakage. Per Dr Diff you are really supposed to use emergency brake to seat rear caliper pistons before applying ANY brake line pressure and before any bleeding is performed.

So I am going to put tires wheels on car take for a test drive tomorrow report back on how well it stops.

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Yeah I'm not sure what the solution is but the braided brake line is kind of awkward to place as far as clearing the e-brake and other caliper parts and getting the hose itself in a decent place. It can totally get in the way if you're not careful with it. After having messed with it for awhile though I'm not sure that any of the standard kind of bends that are available for the banjo would be any better than what they come with.

The 15/16" pedal definitely gives a longer pedal than any of the factory configurations, so if you're used to a "high hard" pedal it will absolutely feel different. I've been running mine for quite a few years though now with a bunch of different brake combinations and I've never had any issues with the pedal travel getting so long that it reduced braking.
 
Yeah I'm not sure what the solution is but the braided brake line is kind of awkward to place as far as clearing the e-brake and other caliper parts and getting the hose itself in a decent place. It can totally get in the way if you're not careful with it. After having messed with it for awhile though I'm not sure that any of the standard kind of bends that are available for the banjo would be any better than what they come with.

The 15/16" pedal definitely gives a longer pedal than any of the factory configurations, so if you're used to a "high hard" pedal it will absolutely feel different. I've been running mine for quite a few years though now with a bunch of different brake combinations and I've never had any issues with the pedal travel getting so long that it reduced braking.
I only drove it for 15 minutes then had to go to cookout rest of yesterday. And today haven't had time and now rain in forecast. But at end of that short drive after a few hard stops the brakes felt stronger. Without a doubt if I need to stop in a hurry the brakes are very strong. I was a bit surprised the car stayed straight during panic stops. With old brakes I usually had one wheel skid first the car goes sideways. Now it stays straight and stays under control.

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When I had the 67 together and running, I could squal the hell out of the brakes on the freeway, and lock all 4 up no problem. I've heard stories about the early HP Mustangs with manual disk, and figured I might be in for a problem. My legs are not that strong. I am 76 now.
 
Roads dried out after days of rain. Around an hour of test driving today. Everything seems to be working pretty good.

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I haven’t read all the replies but double check that you have the brake pistons mounted on the correct side of the car. Yes, I know, it sounds dumb but I did it!

Because of the internals of the pistons (drawing a blank on what they’re called) I had an air pocket that I couldn’t bleed out. The instructions weren’t that clear and the parts were symmetric so they easily mounted on the opposite side.


I swapped sides and then Presto! A good bleed and rock solid brakes!!
Hope this helps,
 
FWIW, when I did a Wilwood front disc conversion on my '70 Dart, I had a spongy pedal after several sessions of bleeding. A mechanic buddy saw my frustration and told me to bleed the rear brakes, first, then, do the front. That was it. Now, I have a high and hard pedal and the line lock holds just fine. Who knew??
 
Update: been driving it for a few weeks. Going to a Cars Coffee 15 miles away rear brakes started tweeting chirping moaning because not enough slack in emergency brake cable. Reduced tension in cable and test drove again but one side still made noise. So I took rear disc brakes apart and found the pads on one side had excessive tightness in caliper bracket. So did the following:

1) Removed caliper bracket and used file belt to grind down where brake pads sit. One ear on one pad needed some grinding too.

2) Added green disc brake grease to caliper pins and on caliper bracket where pads slide. Pins did have some grease, they were not dry, but made sure they were well greased.

3) Verified pads moved freely in both caliper brackets. They should fit firm but slide freely by hand.

4) Used 180 grit sand paper on rear rotors and pads to remove minor glazing caused by dragging brakes. Wiped rotors down with Acetone.

5) Reassembled and activated emergency brake cable many times to adjust rear pads. Then stepped on brake pedal.

6) After emergency brake activated several times and brake pedal depressed / released I could easily turn rear rotors with my hands by the lug nuts with tires off. Before I was not able to turn by hand had to use crow bar or long screw driver in lug nuts. So very noticable difference on rear brakes ability to fully release.

7) No issues at all with front brakes. Front tires move freely no dragging. Those are slider type calipers, not pins, and I did apply brake grease on slider surfaces on initial assembly.

Took for test drive and zero noise now. Cruising around at speed limit normal driving car stops with very little leg effort. Pedal feels solid and inspires confidence. Still more pedal travel then other cars I drive but car starts to slow down without much pedal travel. So even though pedal can travel a bit more then most cars you get used to it and not something I really notice much. Car begins to slow around 1 inch or so pedal travel and very little leg effort. Very good driving experience which was what I was looking for.

Emergency brake does hold car in my sloped driveway. With old rear drums car would roll some.

I think the brakes are now working as best as possible for manual 4 wheel disc. Overall happy with results.
 
Update: been driving it for a few weeks. Going to a Cars Coffee 15 miles away rear brakes started tweeting chirping moaning because not enough slack in emergency brake cable. Reduced tension in cable and test drove again but one side still made noise. So I took rear disc brakes apart and found the pads on one side had excessive tightness in caliper bracket. So did the following:

1) Removed caliper bracket and used file belt to grind down where brake pads sit. One ear on one pad needed some grinding too.

2) Added green disc brake grease to caliper pins and on caliper bracket where pads slide. Pins did have some grease, they were not dry, but made sure they were well greased.

3) Verified pads moved freely in both caliper brackets. They should fit firm but slide freely by hand.

4) Used 180 grit sand paper on rear rotors and pads to remove minor glazing caused by dragging brakes. Wiped rotors down with Acetone.

5) Reassembled and activated emergency brake cable many times to adjust rear pads. Then stepped on brake pedal.

6) After emergency brake activated several times and brake pedal depressed / released I could easily turn rear rotors with my hands by the lug nuts with tires off. Before I was not able to turn by hand had to use crow bar or long screw driver in lug nuts. So very noticable difference on rear brakes ability to fully release.

7) No issues at all with front brakes. Front tires move freely no dragging. Those are slider type calipers, not pins, and I did apply brake grease on slider surfaces on initial assembly.

Took for test drive and zero noise now. Cruising around at speed limit normal driving car stops with very little leg effort. Pedal feels solid and inspires confidence. Still more pedal travel then other cars I drive but car starts to slow down without much pedal travel. So even though pedal can travel a bit more then most cars you get used to it and not something I really notice much. Car begins to slow around 1 inch or so pedal travel and very little leg effort. Very good driving experience which was what I was looking for.

Emergency brake does hold car in my sloped driveway. With old rear drums car would roll some.

I think the brakes are now working as best as possible for manual 4 wheel disc. Overall happy with results.

Thnx for the report, - lotta folks leave us hanging.
nice work finishing it off .
Wishing you lotsa miles, lotsa smiles .

Good job.
 
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