Longer wheel studs?

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I am going to guess this is your problem. The car has 10" factory brakes and the new wheels are shaped wrong to clear the drums (too small on the back side) so they are riding on the drums. Same thing with the caliper but with the caliper off the car the 10" rotor is about 2 inches behind the hub instead of flat at the 10" diameter against the wheel like the rear so it will clear. The 70 a body also has bells on the drums from the factory unless they have been replaced.
 
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Didn't say and looking at the comparison i don't think the shank is as long.
What is the alternative here? To change rotors? I'm trying to learn about this.:D

Not relavent here, but my first set of Centerlines passed tech at my local track all the time, guess cause they knew me, and when i traveled to another track they said i needed long studs with those wheels. I had a set of open end lugs so i used them and cut the shank off another set of studs and screwed them in the ends. Passed every time even though it probably wasn't the smartest thing....lol.
 
OldmanRick said:
Didn't say and looking at the comparison i don't think the shank is as long.
What is the alternative here? To change rotors? I'm trying to learn about this.:D

Not relavent here, but my first set of Centerlines passed tech at my local track all the time, guess cause they knew me, and when i traveled to another track they said i needed long studs with those wheels. I had a set of open end lugs so i used them and cut the shank off another set of studs and screwed them in the ends. Passed every time even though it probably wasn't the smartest thing....lol.
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See post #27. I am guessing the aftermarket wheels are hitting because they are too small on the back side.
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
See post #27. I am guessing the aftermarket wheels are hitting because they are too small on the back side.
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I think you might be right. If they are Wheel Vintiques as he suspects, maybe he should call them and see if they know of this issue?
 
Look at the narrow center drop on the factory wheel. The factory wheel is squared on the back side and not tapered. I bet the aftermarket wheels are tapered so they are hitting on the taper.

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just a good reason to use a 15" wheel. i had to use a 1/4 " spacer to put 14" wheels on my charger to roll it around because it came with the big rotors. all my steel wheels fit flat on the rotor and drum faces with plenty of meat. it almost has to be the wheel design and/or the mating surfaces
 
every factory steel wheel i have seen has been stamped with a J or JJ along with OEM replacement wheels
 

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73AbodEE said:
every factory steel wheel i have seen has been stamped with a J or JJ along with OEM replacement wheels
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What is bad is I have a set of Wheel Vintiques for my 68 Barracuda and I hope they fit the disc brakes I am going to install. I see a trip to the garage tomorrow for a look see.
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
I am going to guess this is your problem. The car has 10" factory brakes and the new wheels are shaped wrong to clear the drums (too small on the back side) so they are riding on the drums. Same thing with the caliper but with the caliper off the car the 10" rotor is about 2 inches behind the hub instead of flat at the 10" diameter against the wheel like the rear so it will clear. The 70 a body also has bells on the drums from the factory unless they have been replaced.
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Um, no. The rear wheels don't even come close to hitting the drums. As I stated before , We only need a spacer on the rear to keep the inner section of the TIRE from rubbing on the leaf spring. As far as the front goes, the reason for the spacer is to keep the wheel from rubbing on the caliper. Actually the only place the wheel contacts the caliper is where the center of the wheel is welded to the rim.
It appears these aftermarket wheels are alot thicker where the studs come through. I don't have any stock wheels to compare them to though.
By the way these are 15" wheels. I will do some more measuring of things with/without spacers to see if we all get an answer to this one...
Thanks...Pete
 
wow man these are 15 " ??. there should be no reason these dont work. i guess i wont be buying any reppoped steel wheels. im glad i dont need them. i wonder if you arent the only one to have a problem with them
 
TurboType1 said:
Um, no. The rear wheels don't even come close to hitting the drums. As I stated before , We only need a spacer on the rear to keep the inner section of the TIRE from rubbing on the leaf spring. As far as the front goes, the reason for the spacer is to keep the wheel from rubbing on the caliper. Actually the only place the wheel contacts the caliper is where the center of the wheel is welded to the rim.
It appears these aftermarket wheels are alot thicker where the studs come through. I don't have any stock wheels to compare them to though.
By the way these are 15" wheels. I will do some more measuring of things with/without spacers to see if we all get an answer to this one...
Thanks...Pete
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OK, that takes out the taper of the wheel since they are 15" wheels and that ship has sunk. After close examination of the wheel in the picture, you can see the front side is belled compared to the OEM wheel which is flat then a quick taper. The wheels are hitting on the back side of the wheel face, otherwise the wheel still wouldn't go on with the caliper and the spacer off. These are hitting some place and this looks like it.

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The car came with Kelsey hayes front disc brakes. It now has those same rotors and SSBC replacement bolt on calipers.
I'm beginning to think that these wheels are the problem. Can any one here running a factory wheel spin off one of your lugnuts and maybe try to measure how much stud is sticking out? I'm gonna do the same with these wheels so we got something to compare
Again thanks for your input....Pete
 
TurboType1 said:
The car came with Kelsey hayes front disc brakes. It now has those same rotors and SSBC replacement bolt on calipers.
I'm beginning to think that these wheels are the problem. Can any one here running a factory wheel spin off one of your lugnuts and maybe try to measure how much stud is sticking out? I'm gonna do the same with these wheels so we got something to compare
Again thanks for your input....Pete
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I have thought that for a while but just hadn't figured out where, but I think I have it now.
I can do that on the rear and it is a 10" sbp just like you have.
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
The wheels are hitting on the back side of the wheel face, otherwise the wheel still wouldn't go on with the caliper and the spacer off. These are hitting some place and this looks like it.
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I'm not sure what you mean by this.

Do you have any close ups of a factory steel wheel? Right where the taper is

Thanks...Pete
 
TurboType1 said:
I'm not sure what you mean by this.

Do you have any close ups of a factory steel wheel? Right where the taper is

Thanks...Pete
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No, I have tried to find one. Let me see of I can explain. Look at the area from where the small hub cap would cover the lug nuts. There are humps that the hub cap snaps over. Next look at the rim where the tire is mounted. The area on your wheel looks tapered compared to the wheels where that area is flat that I posted above.

If that front wheel will go on without the spacer and caliper the wheel has to be hitting some place. If it wasn't hitting it wouldn't go on that way either.
 
Pop one of the rear drums off and lay it in the back of the wheel the way it would mount regularly but now you can see from the back side with nothing in the way. This will either confirm or out rule what I am thinking.

If you do this it will show you why you have a problem.
 
I have heard that they reuse the centers to make custom steel wheels and this show that. If this happens to be the company or the same type of company that made the wheels and they used a 13" original center that was never made for 10" brakes or disc brakes it is where the problem comes from. All 10" drums and disc brakes had to have 14" wheels.


We now offer a wide variety of newly manufactured Mopar/GM/Ford, factory steel wheels. Mopar Magnum 500's, small or big bolt pattern rallye wheels in argent paint or chrome and a variety of sizes and offsets. We can make cop car, standard steel and stock small bolt pattern wheels to just about any width and offset.

Chevrolet SS and rallyes, Pontiac rallye II, Olds rallye (442 style), and Buick rallyes are also available in a multitude of configurations and finishes.

We start with an original steel wheel, inspect the stud holes and face finish of the center for damage or wear, and remove the center from the old wheel. We re-use the original centers because they are made with a better, stronger alloy than most current stampings. This helps keep the assembled tollerances much lower than most new wheels. The centers are then re-conditioned to the customers needs, and fitted into a new rim shell. Wheels are then set to the desired backspacing and MIG welded into place, using state-of-the-art equipment and operators. Our welds are full-circle as opposed to the factorys original partial welds. What it boils down to is this: we have the time to spend building your wheels to closer tolerances than most mass manufacturing plants do. Most wheels made now days have +/- .020 variance, or 'wobble' that is considered acceptable. We get ours as close to zero as possible, but due to manufacturing variances in the new rims, it just cant happen. We can generally get it down to +/- .005.

We can also use your wheels as cores to build you a new set. Save $20 a wheel by turning in your old ones.

http://www.themopardude.com/New_Custom_2.html
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
Look at the area from where the small hub cap would cover the lug nuts. There are humps that the hub cap snaps over. Next look at the rim where the tire is mounted. The area on your wheel looks tapered compared to the wheels where that area is flat that I posted above.
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If anything, I'm thinking it's the part of the rim that the hub cap covers that is different from the factory wheel and is causing this problem. Maybe the area that the actual lugnut goes into is taller or thicker??

The shape of the wheel that you see as tapered, vs the flat of a factory wheel, I do see that difference but it isn't hitting anything so it's not the problem.
 
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