Look what I found for Victoria

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Mike, that compressor would work, by draining the mineral oil, and installing PAG oil. However I do not recommend using it, as the fittings for the lines are Flair type fittings, and are prone to leaking with R-134a. You could get a different rear head with "O" ring type fittings, but I think you would be better off with a "NEW" compressor.
Don't know any thing about the company, but here is one on e-bay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/508-A-C-AC-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item5af41fe8e5&vxp=mtr
 
805moparkid said:
R12 and R134 use a different oil that does not play well with the other, you would have to get all the old oil out for starters.
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Sanden makes a good compressor, I would stick with that brand. Also, make sure that you have a new reciever/drier for R134.

And when you have it installed, be sure that the foam that they use to seal the evaporator in the ducts is PAG oil resistant. If not, the air will go around evaporator where the foam seals used to be after the oil degrades them and you will loose cooling. They made that mistake on the old "LH" cars.
 
It doesn't matter what temperature a room is at, it's always at room temperature....
 
I know most people don't like running tinted windows on old cars...I run legal tint on all my windows and it sure helps to keep the heat down too. It may help to cool your ride.
 
You can buy different rear heads for Sandens on ebay for ~$20 new. Top O-ring fittings (#8 & 10 ports would probably work best, and are most common. The Sanden bracket is the main value. I haven't seen that one before, and not obvious how it mounts since I don't see holes for the water pump. Otherwise, it looks a bit like the one sold by a member here, and probably isn't home-made since it has the "FRONT" stamp.

I would try the existing compressor first. I think you can first run it as an "air pump" to test if it works, without wasting refrigerant. You should flush the oil regardless, especially if it had PAG oil since that absorbs moisture if left open and makes corrosive liquid. Read up on refrigerants. R-134A is soon to be outlawed. I use Duracool with good results. EnviroSafe is another HC refrigerant. I understand that PAO oil is the best today, but mineral oil is OK for R-12, though finding either is getting hard.
 
BillGrissom said:
You can buy different rear heads for Sandens on ebay for ~$20 new. Top O-ring fittings (#8 & 10 ports would probably work best, and are most common. The Sanden bracket is the main value. I haven't seen that one before, and not obvious how it mounts since I don't see holes for the water pump. Otherwise, it looks a bit like the one sold by a member here, and probably isn't home-made since it has the "FRONT" stamp.

I would try the existing compressor first. I think you can first run it as an "air pump" to test if it works, without wasting refrigerant. You should flush the oil regardless, especially if it had PAG oil since that absorbs moisture if left open and makes corrosive liquid. Read up on refrigerants. R-134A is soon to be outlawed. I use Duracool with good results. EnviroSafe is another HC refrigerant. I understand that PAO oil is the best today, but mineral oil is OK for R-12, though finding either is getting hard.
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Here is what he wrote in his add
Up for auction is a SANDEN 508 AC compressor and mounting bracket for a MOPAR 225 Slant 6 engine. The compressor uses R-12 coolant so would need to be converted for use with the modern coolants used today. The compressor ran when I removed it, but I have not tested it since. It should be considered AS IS and I can no guarantee that it will work.
This was on my 1963 Plymouth Valiant. I removed it 14 years ago and have had it sitting boxed on my shelf ever since. I have lost the pictures I had of this when it was on the car. I no longer own the car so I can’t test to check how it went back together. I have assembled it based on the drawings I made when I took it apart

I have assembled it based on the drawings I made when I took it apart. I’m including these drawings with the mount. The mount connected to the front (driver side) engine mount bolt, the intake manifold bolt between the carb and the engine, and to one of the water pump bolts. You’ll need to tinker with it to figure out the best fit. I’m kicking myself for not being able to find the pictures.

The water pump pulley on my car could handle two belts. You will need one of these for this to work. The belt went around the water pump pulley, the compressor pulley, and the pulley on the mount.
 

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TexasDart said:
I know most people don't like running tinted windows on old cars...I run legal tint on all my windows and it sure helps to keep the heat down too. It may help to cool your ride.
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I am considering a light/legal tent TexaDart :hello2:
 
Charrlie_S said:
Mike, that compressor would work, by draining the mineral oil, and installing PAG oil. However I do not recommend using it, as the fittings for the lines are Flair type fittings, and are prone to leaking with R-134a. You could get a different rear head with "O" ring type fittings, but I think you would be better off with a "NEW" compressor.
Don't know any thing about the company, but here is one on e-bay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/508-A-C-AC-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item5af41fe8e5&vxp=mtr
Click to expand...

Thank you very much Charrlie_S :hello2: I have a great street rod/hot rod builder that has dun many of these and he said he has put 2 systems in a slant 6 and one of them was an early A and he said that he had to make some brackets his self so I hope these will work for him.
I am saving my pennies to order a new Vintage air system he said will be a perfect fit, and said not to go with the hang down style and go with the all new air box and heater/fan system :thumblef:
I did not know they was going to out law the R-134A . :shock:
 
memike said:
I did not know they was going to out law the R-134A . :shock:
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R-134a is not being outlawed. It is being phased out on new vehicles. I would not worry about using R-134a, as the new refrigerant HFO-1234YF, will not be available for retrofit for several years, and might not be feasable even then. I am not even going to get the equipment to work with it. I will stick with R-12 and R-134a.
 
Nice find with the brackets. Your new style compressor should draw less HP it has more pistons in it than the old style. IMAO it wouldn't take much more to get the old system up and running if your evaporator is good. You can try digging around the j-yard and find yourself a parallel flowing condenser (bigger the better with R134). Shop around the local AC shops to get hoses, expansion valve and orifice tube, cycling switch and your pretty much there. I'm sure the compressor came off a cycling system (ON OFF ON OFF). So there there will be a need to increase your engine idle when the car is sitting at a light. That is if you choose cycle the compressor. Either way a ton of money can be saved if you research it some more. I fiddled around with an old R12 system when I converted it to R134. I can say I was never really happy with the outcome but I didn't have the car long enough to iron out all the details. Also I've heard mixed reviews on the aftermarket kit quality. Nothing makes a guy hotter than the AC system he paid big bucks to have installed works but don't blow ice cold.
 
The bracket looks a lot like the one I got off an 86 truck with the /6. But it was to tall and I had to cut it down about 2". I am not useing the rod that goes from the compressor to the head. The back bracket goes to the top motor mount bolt. My compressor is stationary so to tighten the belt the idler pully is adjustable.
My front bracket looks different then yours. I need to find the pics to see the difference.
 
Does Victoria carry a 170 or a 225? I can't recall if Mopar put factory A/C on the 170. Oddly, they did not on the 273 w/3-speed manual trans. X2 the Sanden draws the least HP of the available options. Recommend finding a fan shroud and a viscous fan to keep your baby cool.
 
2 Darts said:
Does Victoria carry a 170 or a 225? I can't recall if Mopar put factory A/C on the 170. Oddly, they did not on the 273 w/3-speed manual trans. X2 the Sanden draws the least HP of the available options. Recommend finding a fan shroud and a viscous fan to keep your baby cool.
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Yes for sure 2 Darts, I have a great old fab (hot Rod Builder) to make me a shroud and I will be going with a 2 row aluminum radiator when this goes/comes together. Thank you for your input :cheers:

pettybludart said:
Stay KOOL my friend.:D
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I sure will :glasses7: I picked up a double pully from a member here allong with some other spare parts here http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=270071
Great member offered these parts to us for free just pay shipping :cheers:
 
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