Looking at this 360 on Craigslist - Questions

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"Decent compression as an average" LMFAO THAT IS THE FUNNIEST LOAD OF CRAP I HAVE EVER READ

Those are hunnern dollar cores. I've bought engines that RAN for that money

Anyway, now that the humor is over, I'd expect this here in Spokamentro where choices are few, but "down there" I'd think there'd be an ample supply to keep the price driven down.

The short answer is you won't know till you tear them down and inspect....bores, crank, etc
 
67Dart273 said:
"Decent compression as an average" LMFAO THAT IS THE FUNNIEST LOAD OF CRAP I HAVE EVER READ

Those are hunnern dollar cores. I've bought engines that RAN for that money

Anyway, now that the humor is over, I'd expect this here in Spokamentro where choices are few, but "down there" I'd think there'd be an ample supply to keep the price driven down.

The short answer is you won't know till you tear them down and inspect....bores, crank, etc
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There doesn't seem to be a lot to chose from...
is '77 (or '82) a bad year or should I look for something older?
 
If it were me I'd keep looking for something with all the brackets and pulleys and maybe oil pan for my intended use.
I'd probably steer clear of an RV engine unless it was a big block and very cheap.

Just my opinion.
 
Well depends on your idea of rebuild. Since you are thinking stroker, this means you plan new pistons, crank, rods. BUT it would be nice if the block doesn't have to be align bored (or were you going with aftermarket caps?) and it would be nice if you don't have to bore it to the outer limits.

What are you doing for heads?
 
77 is a bad year core.

Find a 1973, 1974.....or skip the crap and go to 87,88,89,90,91.

The crap being....high mileage, smogged down, never tuned up RV/Truck engines.

Find a wrecked Ramcharger 4x4.
Find a Wrecked D250.
Find a Low Mileage 73/74/75 Rv.

Whatever you do....dont spend more than $150.00 for a core 360.......

























unless it has tons of parts you'll need/use/sell/trade later!!!!


A center sump 360 oil pan is cheap....$59.00
a Nuetral Balance flex plate.....$90

Stroker Setup is pricey depending on the options.....

SO what we are really wondering about the longevity of is a STD 4.00" bore 360 block with main caps....no cam, heads, timing cover, crankshaft?

72-75 block.....or 89-91 block is all I would recommend.
 
67Dart273 said:
Well depends on your idea of rebuild. Since you are thinking stroker, this means you plan new pistons, crank, rods. BUT it would be nice if the block doesn't have to be align bored (or were you going with aftermarket caps?) and it would be nice if you don't have to bore it to the outer limits.

What are you doing for heads?
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I was thinking Edelbrock heads.....

Prine said:
77 is a bad year core.

Find a 1973, 1974.....or skip the crap and go to 87,88,89,90,91.

The crap being....high mileage, smogged down, never tuned up RV/Truck engines.

Find a wrecked Ramcharger 4x4.
Find a Wrecked D250.
Find a Low Mileage 73/74/75 Rv.

Whatever you do....dont spend more than $150.00 for a core 360
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When you're talking about the 80's engines.....do you mean Magnum engines?
 
Out of all the junk that's there, what are you going to use for a stroker build?

The block is the only thing that matters in that buy for your intended use. 360 blocks can be had for $100 or less out here if you are patient.

The block is fine to use for a stroker.
 
OK.....looks like I'll pass and wait for something better to come along.....

Not like I'm in a hurry...!

Thanks guys!
 
If you don't mind putting in some work, look at pick a parts. 1/2 off over this coming weekend at most locations. I've found a bunch of 360's in those places, even 89-92 hyd roller 360's.
 
Absolutely nothing wrong with a '77 360 block thats what is in my car along with the factory crank..of coarse i only used the block and crank..
 
catalytic convertors came along in Mopar Exotica in 1975......

Hippy - Disco people were strapped to the gills to get by and pay bills during the Gas Crunch....much less change oil/spark plugs on proper maintanence schedules.

The 80's were no better....EPA mandates, vacuum hoses, electronics....stupid smog air pump crap.

There is nothing physically wrong with 1975-1988 engine blocks, or heads......

Its the fact they are usually carboned up, dirty, poorly maintained, and smog-era to boot.

I would want an engine that wasnt produced during the worst time of smogged down performance, block Core Shift, and lackadasical factory performance enthusiasm.
 
crackedback said:
If you don't mind putting in some work, look at pick a parts. 1/2 off over this coming weekend at most locations. I've found a bunch of 360's in those places, even 89-92 hyd roller 360's.
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Hey Rob. How'd you hear about pick-n-pull's sale? It's this weekend or over the 4th of July weekend?
 
mopowers said:
Hey Rob. How'd you hear about pick-n-pull's sale? It's this weekend or over the 4th of July weekend?
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yup! i have picked up 89 case sure grip center sections for less then $100 on these sales. i have turned several on craigslist for a healthy profit.
 
a 77 block will work fine. Nothing wrong with it.

A hole is a hole, you eat ugly donuts don't ya???
 
If your shopping a pull-it-yourself yard, I would ONLY consider 89-92 roller cam blocks, OR the magnum engine. Flat tappet LA blocks I wouldn't bother, IMO
 
When I bring up the ad it says $180. The '82 says $150.

On one hand- I think either of these would make good candidates for stroker builds- it wouldn't be surprising at all to see both of them need .020 overbore and neither's crank may be any good. The '82 sounds like even though it's got a decent intake it'll not have much to offer that doesn't need work.

I agree with the other accessments- I think they're closer to $100 engines. When everything's done there's not a lot leftover that's worth money. Out of the two- I'd lean toward the '77 motor is it could be had around $100-130. It's at least got manifolds on it, and if it's got good compression with just the crank trashed it could end up being a good foundation for a stroker build.

replicaracer43 said:
If your shopping a pull-it-yourself yard, I would ONLY consider 89-92 roller cam blocks, OR the magnum engine. Flat tappet LA blocks I wouldn't bother, IMO
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This- if you can pick, the EFI motors are better choices especially if you are only wanting the block.
 
Prine said:
catalytic convertors came along in Mopar Exotica in 1975......

Hippy - Disco people were strapped to the gills to get by and pay bills during the Gas Crunch....much less change oil/spark plugs on proper maintanence schedules.

The 80's were no better....EPA mandates, vacuum hoses, electronics....stupid smog air pump crap.

There is nothing physically wrong with 1975-1988 engine blocks, or heads......

Its the fact they are usually carboned up, dirty, poorly maintained, and smog-era to boot.

I would want an engine that wasnt produced during the worst time of smogged down performance, block Core Shift, and lackadasical factory performance enthusiasm.
Click to expand...


Who cares about cats and emmissios ? It's being built into a 408 so none of that crap matters. And along with the other crap you are talking about again it's getting rebuilt. Most likely going to bore any core he buys. Getting new crank rods and Pistons.

Ever see how poorly machine work was done on 60's and 70's mopars? Horrible.

Nothing wrong with either of those engines in my opinion. I'd go with the lower mileage one myself.

My preference would be a roller la360 from the 80's only because of the easy roller set up.
 
abodyjoe said:
Who cares about cats and emmissios ? It's being built into a 408 so none of that crap matters. And along with the other crap you are talking about again it's getting rebuilt. Most likely going to bore any core he buys. Getting new crank rods and Pistons.

Ever see how poorly machine work was done on 60's and 70's mopars? Horrible.

Nothing wrong with either of those engines in my opinion. I'd go with the lower mileage one myself.

My preference would be a roller la360 from the 80's only because of the easy roller set up.
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x2.
Any core engine is fine assuming the fluids haven't mixed and it can be turned. Have whatever you buy sonic tested, and keep the bores as small as possible in terms of cylinders. Definately have it align honed and I always run stud on the mains if it's a 4" arm. I also personally like the later 80s stuff for decent castings.
 
I just bought a block from the machine shop for $150. That way I wasn't taking any chances on someone's old junk? The only thing that you might gain is a timing chain cover? Oh ya, all the lost time & knuckles taking that greasy ??? Apart, and a pile of parts that almost nobody else wants.
 
In retrospect, I'd rather find a 360 roller cam engine.
It would save me a lot of trouble.
What years/cars should I be looking at?
 
j par said:
I just bought a block from the machine shop for $150. That way I wasn't taking any chances on someone's old junk? The only thing that you might gain is a timing chain cover? Oh ya, all the lost time & knuckles taking that greasy ??? Apart, and a pile of parts that almost nobody else wants.
Click to expand...

It is all OLD JUNK,,,,,,,,
 
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