1973dusterkid
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Ok so I have been looking for a front disc brake conversion for a 73 duster.I found some on ebay but buying a brake system form ebay is scary.Is there a good kit for under 500 dollars.
Looking for a good disc conversion setup
- Thread starter 1973dusterkid
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replicaracer43
Grumpy Old Man
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Local pull-a-part or salvage yard is where I would look, (think 5th ave or dodge diplomat) then check on here for the proper upper controll arms... really, you just need the spindles, you could buy new rotors local, and reman calipers.
1973dusterkid
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replicaracer43
Grumpy Old Man
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The car aint new is it?? The factory stuff is hard to beat, new rotors, pads, calipers and bearings would make it "new" and cheaper, OR buy a aftermarket system, which will probally have chinese bearings and who knows what else.. I guess they both have pros and cons, good luck with whatever you decide!
Yup, I'd much rather buy a set of spindles and caliper brackets off a 5th ave, diplomat, New Yorker etc from the local yard, new rotors and calipers, and a set of ball joint adapter sleeves from dr diff than buy one of those "kits". I paid $60 for the last set of spindles and caliper brackets from the yard. Unless something unusual has happened to them, they're as good as new ones.
If you REALLY want to spend money, I'd STILL get the spindles from the yard, still buy dr diffs adapters to keep the small ball joint uppers, and buy a set of AR adapters to run wilwood dynalites on stock 11.75" rotors. That'll probably run you a little more than $500, but it'd be a way better set up than some aftermarket kit that still only runs 10.87" rotors.
If you REALLY want to spend money, I'd STILL get the spindles from the yard, still buy dr diffs adapters to keep the small ball joint uppers, and buy a set of AR adapters to run wilwood dynalites on stock 11.75" rotors. That'll probably run you a little more than $500, but it'd be a way better set up than some aftermarket kit that still only runs 10.87" rotors.
Mad Dart
Nothing to see Here!
I just did this swap. I used 1978 Cordoba 11.75 Drilled Slotted Rotors from Rotorpros.com 2 delivered to my door for $140.00, Wilwood Dynalite 4 Piston Calipers "Summit" $139.00 each and the adapters for the Calipers I bought from Mancini $182.00. I already had the Spindles. I also bought a new master cylinder from Dr. Diff for $107.00, Proportion Valve for $80.00 at Speedway. Biondo Line Lock from Summit for $40.00. Plus all new brake lines, fittings and hoses etc. I bought raw materials that I will make up myself.
rmchrgr
Skate And Destroy
I'll suggest again to buy my factory set up for sale in the classifieds.
Its a perfect match for you - factory US made parts that will fit without any modifications, OE spindles, Timken bearings, even the pads are good... no off-shore junk and well under 500 bones. Everything included to do the job except the M.C. and prop valve. All cleaned up and ready to paint/install.
I think you can buy rotors and seals at the parts store for like $30 each.
:dontknow:
Maybe see this link and read up on it.
Its a perfect match for you - factory US made parts that will fit without any modifications, OE spindles, Timken bearings, even the pads are good... no off-shore junk and well under 500 bones. Everything included to do the job except the M.C. and prop valve. All cleaned up and ready to paint/install.
I think you can buy rotors and seals at the parts store for like $30 each.
:dontknow:
Maybe see this link and read up on it.
1968FormulaS340
Well-Known Member
Buy a factory setup. It is your best option.
New or turned rotors, some new calipers and pads...... It will be as good as new.
New or turned rotors, some new calipers and pads...... It will be as good as new.
Not too shabby, so you're at $640 without the master and line lock?
Quick question for you, not to derail the thread, what master cylinder did you get? I bought an entire Wilwood set up here a few weeks ago (score!
), and the master cylinder is the only thing I had a question about. I've got a stock manual disk m/c at the moment, but I'm curious if/how it'll work with the wilwoods.
Mad Dart
Nothing to see Here!
Not too shabby, so you're at $640 without the master and line lock?
Quick question for you, not to derail the thread, what master cylinder did you get? I bought an entire Wilwood set up here a few weeks ago (score!
They say you can use the stock one and put a different Prop Valve in the system and use the stock master. I called Cass at Dr. Diff and he recommended the 1 1/32 Bore Master. I have manual 4 Wheel Disc. If you are going to order from him, call and he will guide you through what will work best.
You could trim a little more $$ off of my set up by not using the Proportion valve I am using.
The Scarebird conversion is both inexpensive and 'new'. The used factory conversion is a good candidate as others have mentioned, but Scarebird might be worth some investigation.
The complete kit costs $495. You can buy the brackets for less, but then you still have to source your new Chevy calipers and Toyota rotors.
Did I mention Chevy calipers and Toyota rotors? :banghead:
And the rotors aren't that big, you'd still be way better off getting a 10.87" Mopar set up. Scarebird also reuses the current spindles, so, no more "new" parts then a mopar set up if you buy new calipers and rotors.
Nice! Thanks for the info. The manual disk m/c is already 1 1/32", the power brake cars used 15/16". Sounds like I'll just give it a try and see if I need an adjustable prop valve, I'll be going to 11" rear drums as well so we'll just have to see how it works out.
True, if you buy the package it gets darn close to the OP's $500 price-point. I did a little legwork and sourced the parts myself and am probably in it for around $300.
Just throwin' out another option, is all. Didn't think the OP was being strict about the 'mopar only' thing since he was already looking at aftermarket stuff. But if he is, the 73'-up stock setup is probably the way to go.
(for what it's worth, the calipers I bought for my scarebird setup were kelsey-hayes and the rotors were made by centric, I believe)
1973dusterkid
Watch This
I can get a set up off a 73 + a body and then rebuild them.
Oklacarcollecto
Life is an experiment
That is the simple way.
hot rod valiant
Well-Known Member
73 and up drum brake abodies should already have the big ball joint upper control arms
superchargeddrt
Well-Known Member
Not too shabby, so you're at $640 without the master and line lock?
Quick question for you, not to derail the thread, what master cylinder did you get? I bought an entire Wilwood set up here a few weeks ago (score!
Ya know,
I put a Wilwood kit on my '69 and I had the newer mid 70's master on it and it was worse than my original Kelsey Hayes discs were. I upgraded to a smaller piston Wilwood master and it was a vast improvement. Also I had to get a adjustable piston rod for my master and it had to come from Stainless Steel Brake corporation as Wilwood didn't make an adjustable rod.
96bansheepilot
Well-Known Member
Just did the swap on my car. Used all factory items and just bought new calipers, pads, hoses, ball joints. Rotors were turned and new bushings installed. Went ahead and put new shocks on the car too. I paid about 500 for everything. Bought from a member on here.
If you are interested I can offer you a disc brake conversion kit for your duster. We do not list one currently on our site or catalog. But I can supply you with one. Depending on if your car is currently manual or power brakes.
For a Power Brake car $699
For Manual Brake Car $629
Thanks
James
For a Power Brake car $699
For Manual Brake Car $629
Thanks
James
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