Lower Radiator Hose Connection on Wrong Side...what to do?

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scottylack

scottylack

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Ive got a later model radiator thats lower hose connector is on the wrong side...my water pump intake in on the drivers side, and the lolwer outflow is on the pass side? Can I just snake a long flexible hose across and below the fan blades????
 

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never seen a bottom hose on the drivers side of the engine on an A body, what engine? what year? pictures?
 
that is gonna be a thorn in your side the entire time you have that setup in there. i would either change the radiator or the water pump and move on.
 
1970 was the changeover year for the lower hose. So either have a radiator shop move the oulet on the lower tank (cheapest), or swap to a later water pump. Heep in mind the timing marks on the timing cover and crank damper moved in 70 as well, so figure that in.
 
got the exact same problem , only backwards. I got a brand new becool aluminum crossflow, outlet on driver's side, I need passengers side. I was thinking about fabbing up a cross pipe along the crossmember and using.a couple 90* elbows.
of course it would be easier if we lived across the street from one another, we could just trade. haha
 
im more interested in your centrifugal supercharger....tell us about that...

your radiator problem isn't really a problem....peanuts...LOL....ive seen people snake a longer hose under there like that for a temp. fix. nothing wrong with that if it works for a bit.
 
Think I'm going to bring it to the radiator shop and have it moved. Makes sense. Not going change the pump. Been there done that. It's all set. So last thing in gets fixed
 
when I bought my duster it was a basket case and didnt come with a radiator. I bought an engine out of a 67 coronet and the water pump looks just like yours and exited on the drivers side.

it wasnt until I went to get a radiator that I noticed the factory radiator was set up for the different style pump.

what i ended up doing (since I was already in the market for a radiator) was purchasing a radiator that was for a 58 amc rambler. it was almost an exact fit in the duster, set up just right for my water pump set up and plenty of cooling power.

here are some pictures from back when i first installed it in the duster.





 
had the same issue with my valiant,went to muffler shop and had a piece bent up to cross over,ran it like that till this year and had no issues,worked for me !!
 
Some have run long hoses. I ran into this with my 65 Dart 273. The radiator had been kissed by the fan and ruined. The only radiator I could get at Autozone was a 71+ square-top w/ lower hose on passenger side. I swapped to a matching alum water pump since $30 vs $65 for the cast iron original, plus seemed smart to not form the steel-alum-steel "battery". I installed a later timing cover since mine was almost corroded thru.

Problems: My TRW power steering pump bracket didn't fit the new water pump, so bought a later Federal pump and brackets. The alum water pump is 1" thicker, so couldn't fit the new fan/clutch. I had to cut a timing mark in the damper for the new tab. I had to play with pulleys and belts to get accessories to work, and haven't gotten to an AC compressor yet.

In sum, it might be easier to get a correct radiator. Yours doesn't look like A-body anyway, unless 71 or 72 still had the round top. I am guessing it is a B-body, and those are usually slightly too tall to close the hood, so did someone make mod's to work? Before buying another, consider if you will have AC, so the top hose location isn't also a problem.
 
I carry index cards with the hose locations marked for any car I have that needs a radiator. Also any tire sizes I need and my shirt measurements and wife's ring size.
 
I put a 68 318 in a 71 sebring in high school and snaked a long flex hose under. The problem (and it happened twice) is the hose hung a bit in front of the kmember and it got pinched in between that and a curb and busted it.
Currently I put a 72 motor in my 68 and this time ordered a new champion radiator with the correct locations and more cooling ability.
 
I put a B-body 22" 3 core BB rad in a 67 SB A-body. I took it the local rad shop to have cleaned, inspected and move the bottom hose outlet and change the diameter which was different. It cost less than $50 to have done.
 
I had the same issue on my Duster with a 383. Used copper pipe and fittings, soldered the joints and have been running it 2 yrs with no problems.
 
moparmanik said:
had the same issue with my valiant,went to muffler shop and had a piece bent up to cross over,ran it like that till this year and had no issues,worked for me !!
Click to expand...

My father did the same thing in the 70's when he put a 69 dart swinger 340 4 speed engine into his 73 challenger.
Never had a problem... Then sadly sold the car :banghead:
 
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