Lunati 60403 street ability?

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Running a 360 .030 over.. , J heads bowl blended and ports smoothed out (2.02 intakes) , 10:1 comp , LD340 intake , 340 exhaust manifolds or TTI's if I feel rich ! Built 904 with 2200 range stall and 3.55 gears.

So , will I run in the 10's ?

Probably NOT unless you are running 1/8 mile
 
mbaird said:
So , will I run in the 10's ?
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Not without being rear-ended by a car running 8s.
You should be solidly into the 12s, and with optimizing the car for the drag strip it has the potential to go into the 11s - Optimizing being a serious diet, real gears, a real convertor, serious tuning, chassis mods, chassis tuning, etc.
 
lol.... just getting the thread back on track....

.513 lift used to be pretty big. But they had more duration
back then. Like the MP .509 cam... it could be driven on the street
but wasn't really "streetable"... I drove my 12.5:1 with a .638 roller
on the street.....but that didn't make it driver friendly.
 
moper said:
Not without being rear-ended by a car running 8s.
You should be solidly into the 12s, and with optimizing the car for the drag strip it has the potential to go into the 11s - Optimizing being a serious diet, real gears, a real convertor, serious tuning, chassis mods, chassis tuning, etc.
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just read this... that is funny as hell !
 
I build pretty much only street engines. That is - they drive on the street much more than the track. And as a result I've found "streetable" to be defined by the individual. I know what I can live with, and I have customers that can live with more, and some that can't live with anything...lol.
 
I used to race a lot. the days of sitting at our track in 95-105 temps with no shade only to make 2-3 trial runs and however many elimination runs got old. Now I spend most of my weekends in the Mtns riding my dirt bike/fishing/camping and hunting.

I might go to the track 1 or 2 times a year now.
 
mbaird said:
I used to race a lot. the days of sitting at our track in 95-105 temps with no shade only to make 2-3 trial runs and however many elimination runs got old. Now I spend most of my weekends in the Mtns riding my dirt bike/fishing/camping and hunting.

I might go to the track 1 or 2 times a year now.
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I went to the track every weekend years ago, but like you, it got old.
now I enjoy the many outdoor activities, Idaho has to offer.
 
moper said:
Here's the deal - The Voo Doo line has a fast ramp speed compared to the other major cam grinders' with the exception of Hughes. Which is also why Hughes tends to tell you run their springs. It's the main reason all the Voo Doo cams require a dual valve spring and as a builder I tend to use whatever the cam maufacturer tells me to use for a given cam and any engine that requires true dual valve spings you MUST remove the inner spring for the cam break in process. As a refresher - a performance spring has an outer srping with a flat wound dampener in it. See the Comp 901-16 as an example. A dual spring assembly has the outer spring with the inner flat wire dampener, plus a smaller diameter inner spring that is easilly left out by your builder and replaced after the engine's cam is broken in. The 10200703 (what the 60403 changed part number to) is no exception in terms of springs - it requires a dual spring that requires the guides and seats be cut on factory heads, and that the inner be left out during cam break in.
It actually surprised me with the idle quality and vacuum in the engine I ran it in - a modified 318. I think it would be a great choice for a mild 360.
On the break in process - this really starts at the point the heads are assembled without the inner springs and the rockers are torqued down. That's long before the engine starts or you add oil. You can put on the cam break in lube when the cam's installed. But by the time you've got it ready to fire it's been rotated a bunch of times and the break in lube has been mostly wiped off. The more spring pressure you have, the more likely it will be rubbed off. I always make the pushrods and rockers the last thing I do and once they're on - don't turn the engine unless you have to (bolting on the convertor to flex pate, etc.) Also - the engine has to fire immediately. You have to know the ignition works and is timed properly, the fuel system is primed and working, and that the cooling system is adequate (and I fill mine with water so if it overflows or burps I can top it off easy while it's running and it doesnt waste coolant). The oil you use should be one high in zink - I use the Not For Street Use Valvoline VR1 for break in and depending on the engine - it might be the oil spec'd for it's service life. Another option is to use whatever oil you want and the Comp additive. No matter how you do it - the zink in the oil must be addressed - IMO running any standard SAE rated "starburst" oil with no additive is asking for a problem now-a-days. You can afford good oil if you can afford to build the engine. These caras are not being driven as much or as far and oil change intervals at least where I am are twice in 6 months barring any problems.
So that's my take anyway...
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oops. lol. I've driven it about 4000 miles since I got it running no problems with my 60403. I have 2.76s so it's not as fast as it would be with something a little higher, but it'll run all the way up to 5000 with no issues. I haven't gone higher, partly because I need new rockers which I'll be ordering once I get the money, and I just drive it on the street. I need more supportive hardware up top to get it to run better though, mainly a newer than 30-40 yo manifold, the new rockers, and will most likely get some solid lifters while I'm in there.
 
I dropped my heads off at the machine shop yesterday and the machinist/owner and I had a long talk and he did a lot of checking on the heads while I was there. He looked up the specs for the Lunati 60403 cam I bought and told me that they are full of it on running so much spring pressure for mostly street driven cars. Drag car fine, but not street. He said that he has been round and round with Lunati and Comp cams about bumping their spring pressures up so high. These heads have had the spring pockets milled for different springs I had in the past and he is going to have to shim the springs a little but he is going to keep the seat pressure down at 90 lbs. He said since this is a street car he is looking at the fact that the lifters are hydraulic and their spring pressure recommendations would be rough on the lifters at low RPM's ( especially idle ) and cam life.
 
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