Lunati VooDoo Question

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68er

68er

68Dart GT
Joined
Feb 9, 2008
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Location
Sarnia Ontario
I am currently investigating a noise in my top end.. Sounds like a lifter or wiped lobe.

If I need a lifter I want to change all 16 and need advice on what to use.

If I have to change cams I was doing a lot of reading and thought of the Lunati over the current Purple Shaft I have now..

Below is the two sticks I was looking at.

I was cautioned by a friend that the Cams are sweet but not to buy the lifters as they
are made in China.?

Anyone here up on the lunati info etc....

My Dart has
340
purple shaft lift is .484
X heads
727
323 gear

thanks for any info

https://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2341&gid=287
https://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2342&gid=287
 
The famous Rhoads lifters... do they still make the ticking sound like they did in the old days
 
I run a vodoo in my 383 RR , I like it a lot I'm using the lifters it came with with no problems. I did have a car about 20 years ago with Rhodes lifters very very noisy and really didn't see the point!!! do I over cam to have great top end power and use the Rhodes to make it tamer at under 3k??? Then what do I run for intake single plane and big carb to use the top end power? Or a duel plane and small carb to help idle and low end?? One Rhodes lifters went bad so I replaced them with a stock set and the car had the only 1" less vacuum at idle and ran much better without the embarrassing lifter tick! Maybe they are better now but I don't see many top engine builders using them
 
Hughes cams are nice. Running the Whiplash in my Duster and love it!
I'm running a 9:1 360, air gap, 750 DP and headers on an otherwise bone stock engine and 3.23 gears and it will burn 275/50 drag radial through 1st gear no prob.
hughesengines.com

Lunati VooDoo are nice too. Both are ground to take advantage of the .904 lifter diameter.

Harold Brookshire designed the VooDoo series. He worked at Ultradyne and Comp where he also helped design the XE series. Can't go wrong either way. You get nice aggressive ramp rates...

If you go with a Lunati I'd go with the next one up (60403) that's a great cam. The two you listed are nice but in my opinion you'd be selling your 340 a little short.
 
I defenately do not want to listen to the click sounds of the lifter if the Rhoads still work like this..
 
Then you might not want the Lunati either. Really fast rates of lift tend to be noisy. It's a fact of life. While I agree, Harold Brookshire is DA MAN, those really fast rates of lift do make noise compared to something a little more conservative, like the Comp High Energy or Dual Energy. Just food for thought.
 
My friend has the Lunati Part Number: 10200702LK ....Previous Part Number: 60402LK Hydraulic Flat Tapped setup with headers..340 Cuda ... I don't find the under the hood noise much different then my current Purple Stick...

I do find that my idle is rougher then his though that is why I was looking at the Voodoo...

This is a learning curve for me lol
 
Question..

Are the lifters noise on Ramp Up ? and not on Idle ?

I sometimes wonder if we here the Valves closing when using header.

I am hoping I just have lifters failings cause this is the 2nd time I have had this noise and last time we just changed a lifter that collapsed.

With this in mind if I only need a lifter I want to purchase 16 new hydraulic ones...

Rusty what is your recommendation on lifters for the Purple Shaft...
 
68er said:
I do find that my idle is rougher then his though that is why I was looking at the Voodoo...

This is a learning curve for me lol
Click to expand...

I would hope so that your car idles rougher. The 484 cam is ~15-20* longer in duration than that 402 voodoo.

The old #60403 is a great street cam. A little idle chop with good power everywhere in a well set up engine.
 
crackedback said:
The old #60403 is a great street cam. A little idle chop with good power everywhere in a well set up engine.
Click to expand...

This is what I have and suggest, it idles nice but with a tad lope. Makes good torque down low, winds up good and is quite street-able but I have 3.91 gears and a 4 speed.

Is your torque converter stock?
 
My 340
X heads
Proform 650 Carb
LP340 intake
727 with no stall T2 trans kit
MSG ignition
323 grear

The #60403 would suit my setup... ? Im not running roller rockers only stock.

Thus is why I was looking at the #60401lk and #60402lk
 
Lifters - I would go with MRL's lifters.

If your going to swap out your cam then go roller using the Voodoo line w/ MRL's roller lifters. I bought my cam and lifters from Mike. I wouldn't hesitate to use him again. He actually sold them to me a little cheaper then what Lunati wanted for them.

As far as fast ramps and noise go. I do agree that they can make a slightly louder valvetrain noise, but it's nothing when compared to those Rhoads lifters.
 
I'd run the 403 or a Comp XE268H

Your setup is good, if it has headers, better. A 2500-3000 converter would really wake it up!
 
Robs got the ticket there with headers and a converter too if you havent done so...

Told ya the old 60403 would be a popular choice! Dont to worry about roller rockers, stock stuff would be fine for the time being, then upgrade to rollers at some point.

We are all talking hydraulic flat tappet grinds here, so lifter clack is negligible. My Hughes lifter and Whiplash don't clatter much at all.

If you change cams of even just lifters it's wise to break it in with some good break in oil from Comp, Joe Gibbs, Brad Penn etc and do it right.

A hyd roller like Scamper suggests is nice and all but boku more bucks and I'd venture to say you wouldnt take advantage of it based on a mild 340. But if more cubes, compression and head work are in the cards then that's a good direction
 
My bro up here in Ontario suggested the 60403 too after he looked at the specs... He said the 340 even without the stall at this time will love it.

As for lifters I was told not to use comp or lunati lifters lol yeah I am getting confused ...

It was suggested that I get a hold of some True Johnson Lifters .. I was given a # to call in Michigan "Topline Johnson Hylift Lifters, Call "Paul" direct at 1-800-441-1400 and enter extension #609 when prompted." Tell him what you have and he will get you real Johnson lifters...
 
Lifters are seldom the problem. Noise and failures are ususally more a function of setup and less often the block itself. Have you measured the lifter bores on your block? If you had a bad one, and now have the same issue or worse (cam gone bad), and neither was with a modern cam grind - chances are you have either a setup or block issue. What oil are you running? What is your oil pressure hot at idle and at 3K? What is your lifter preload?
 
History on this motor is it was rebuiltnow 15 years ago. I bought it in 2011 from the owner that rebuilt it etc. Story goes he took a stroke and could not drive anymore due to some complications and they would not issue him a licence. So he parked it in his garage for until I bought it... The motor had under 1000 miles on it...

In 2011 summer we had stated it up and it was ticking aweful with a miss... it was found a lifter colapsed in the plunger part and a push rod bent a bit... Just replaced them and all was fine..


Last year we did a leak down test on it and discovered #1 #3 cyl were weak. so off came the head for inspection. The cylinders exhaust valve were hanging a bit not seating etc... I had the head rebuild and did the valves and strings etc etc... Cleaned up intake and bought new carb and changed the ignition to MSD...

On inspection the Cam lobes looked well and lifters too.. all smooth and it went together...
Drove it all last summer and a few big trips including MoparFest in New Hamburg.

Then last friday I noticed a rougher idle then normal and then going to work I started hearing a ticking... By the time I got to work it was running poorer and ticking louder.

So We will take it apart later this week as I want to take it to my buds garage as its super new and clean lol...

Will know more when we ripper apart...

Reason for this thread is to hopefully prepare for either Lifter changes or complete cam change...

I only have been running royal purple since the first lifter change

Thanks for all the inputs

:burnout:

edit

Just went to look at my bills... the springs are Comp 901-16 I beleive they are only rated up to .490 lift ?
 
Sounds like either you started to lose a lobe on the cam, A lifter collapsed again, or a rocker arm is either bent or the recess that the push rod sits in is starting to open up.

Keep us posted. I'm curious as to what you find!
 
Sounds like when it was started after the storage it bent a pushrod.. Which came first the plunger or the pushrod isn't really a big deal - but a sticky valve might have done both. Especially if later you had signs of valves hanging open. The 901-16s are very mild - which I tend to think it's not a lobe causing the failure, but a failure casuing the lobe to go bad. I'd simply plan to change the cam and lifters, use the lifters that the cam manufacturer says to. Verify the lifters rotate when you put it in, use a good break in paste on the lifter faces and lobes, make sure the pushrods allow for the right preload for the lifer you use. Make sure the springs - if they are true doubles and have an inner round wire spring that you do not install it for breakin. Follow the breakin procedures and make sure the engine can run for 20 minutes around 2K without stopping. Then add the inners and drop the oil and you should be fine. No need for magic lifters.
 
Alrighty....

Tore apart the top end this AM. This is what I have discovered on #7 cyl..

The lifter and lobe are damaged.

Here are the photo's

Is this a wiped lobe ?

I guess now I will need to buy a cam and lifter kit.

thanks

With my discount I can get this cam and lifter set by compcams XE268H for $159.99 + tax

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...r-cl20-223-3/10322172-P?searchTerm=xe268h+cam

uploading a video too
 

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